Is Hermés Overtaking Louis Vuitton a Click-Bait Pipe Dream? Or a Scientific Math Possibility
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Sabrina Carpenter, Post Taylor Swift Tour, Fronts New SKIMS Stretch Lace Campaign
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Pop star Sabrina Carpenter fronts a new SKIMS campaign for the new Stretch Lace and Fits Everybody spring collections dropping April 3.
In a volley across the net, SKIMS — who is playing hardball with Victoria’s Secret — calls Stretch Lace offering “the most alluring underwear drop yet.”
Fresh off opening Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour shows in Australia and Singapore, and touring last fall with the pop star, not all Swifties were onboard with Sabrina Carpenter promoting SKIMS.
Kim and her ex-husband Kanye West have a very sketchy history with the biggest pop star on the planet.
Read MoreHow Shein Grabbed H&M America By the Throat | H&M Spring 2024 Campaign
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H&M celebrates Spring 2024 as a time of rebirth and new beginnings in a fresh and sophisticated campaign with equally upmarket clothes. For the women’s portion, models include Anok Yai, Bibi Breslin, Precious Lee, Raquel Zimmermann and Vittoria Ceretti styled by Kate Phelan.
Photographer Rafael Pavarotti [IG] is behind the lens, working with Albert Moya on what’s an exceptional and esoteric campaign film — the entire director’s cut.
In recent days, H&M received positive news in response to the Spring 2024 collections. H&M Group CEO Daniel Ervér, who abruptly replaced Helena Helmersson at the end of January, will tell you that he had little to do with the results.
H&M under Helmersson got caught in the worst possible squeeze and Ervér was her partner in that squeeze, being head of H&M for the last four years.
COVID came and Shein took off like an online rocket ship.
H&M controlled 16% of the fast fashion market in the US in November 2022, behind Shein's 50%. H&M’s $24.9 billion market cap as of November 2023 is approximately 35% of Shein's 2023 private valuation of $66 billion.
Read MoreAlessandro Michele Official As Creative Director at Valentino Couture
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Valentino has made the announcement we’ve all been waiting for: Alessandro Michele will become the new creative director of the Rome-based couture house.
Michele will step into the creative-head shoes of his friend Pierpaolo Piccioli, who existed the Rome-based house last Friday. The designer embarks on his new journey next Tuesday, according to an internal statement.
I just visited Michele’s IG to follow any breadcrumbs he has left along the way. Of course, the ‘Alice in Wonderland’ book was a must-add to AOC’s visual about Alessandro Michele’s new journey.
A close friend of Michele’s reached out to me in regard to AOC’s commentary on the Chinese New Year 2023 Gucci post celebrating the Year of the Rabbit. AOC includes those links, as we lift off again with one of fashion’s most visionary and talented Queen Bees. AOC is so happy Alessandro Michele is back.
Read MoreSailing to Paris 2024 Olympics with Louis Vuitton Nautical Summer Capsule, Crewed by Women
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Louis Vuitton is in Olympic Games Paris 2024 countdown, as a lead brand in LVMH’s role as a top sponsor of this summer’s games.
Dropping the new Louis Vuitton Nautical Capsule 2024 this weekend reminds us that some fashion trends truly possess heritage status — in the way that the Olympics are heritage.
Women, Sailing and the Olympics
The world has changed almost beyond recognition since the summer of 1924 — the last time Paris hosted the summer Olympics. One simple statistic grabs our attention immediately: 2954 men competed in the 1924 games and 135 women. AOC digs deep into women in competitive sailing a century ago.
Louis Vuitton's foray into the prestigious realm of sailing and its premier position in the LVMH sponsor umbrella of the Paris 2024 Summer Games spills next into Barcelona, where Louis Vuitton hosts in late August 2024 the America's Cup Challenger Selection Series. Hosting the event since 1983 and subsequently renamed the Louis Vuitton Cup, it culminates in the race for a new America’s Cup Winner.
Read MoreStella McCartney Summer 2024 Garbage Heap Campaign by Harley Weir
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Designer and eco-activist Stella McCartney [IG] releases her summer 2024 campaign, starring fellow Gaia lover Cara Delevingne.
The summer 2024 collection is Stella McCartney’s most sustainable ever, crafted from 95% conscious materials. Below, Cara holds the Frame bag, crafted from a leather alternative, made from apple waste.
Photographer Harley Weir [IG] captures the model-actor at VeoliaUK’s [IG] South London recycling center.
Read MorePierpaolo Piccioli's Humanist-Focus Chapter Ends at Maison Valentino
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Responding to a request for comment from WWD, Valentino confirmed on March 22, 2024 the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli as creative director of Maison Valentino.
Kering’s Role is Unclear in the Mayhoola Decision
We don’t know what the role of Gucci-parent Kering has in this decision. Kering acquired 30% of Valentino in July, 2023, with an option to purchase the whole of Valentino's share capital no later than 2028.
Luxury Stocks Are Holding Steady with Kering Plunge of $6.8 Billion
As fashion’s titanic luxury brands ship rocks in a week that witnessed Kering stock lose $6.8 billion of value on Wednesday, following news of a 20% revenue decrease at Gucci, Kering is the hardest hit.
LVMH is holding steady and positive, along with other key brands like Brunello Cuccinelli and Ralph Lauren.
AOC believes that very different luxury brand marketing positions at these more ‘humanist-centered luxury brands’, coupled with deep bench strength in executive talent at LVMH — but also individual luxury brands like Cucinelli and Lauren — are positioning them to weather storms in the luxury sector.
Read MoreChristy Turlington and Crew in Valentino, by Herb Ritts for Vanity Fair US F/W 1995.96
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Italian luxury brand Valentino is making headlines today, with news that the maison’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli has come to the end of his Valentino tenure after 25 years.
Related: Pierpaolo Piccioli's Humanist-Focus Chapter Ends at Maison Valentino AOC Daily
The Italian humanist was not a member of the Maison Valentino family in 1995, when esteemed photographer Herb Ritts [IG] created this series of elegant but sensually provocative images anchored by Christy Turlington of the Valentino F/W 1995.96 collection for Vanity Fair US.
AOC wonders if fashion scholars have explored this transition of sexual mores, especially within the Italian brands, who historically and geographically lived closer to the Levant-based lands of the goddess worship that predated monotheism.
What is true is that the woman — Turlington here — is the center of this ritualistic fashion ritual, captured for Valentino in 1995 by Herb Ritts.
Read MorePucci Spring 2024 Campaign with Vittoria Ceretti | House Update
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The watery effect of Pucci’s heritage Vivara print takes the stage in a new Spring 2024 campaign headlined by Vittoria Ceretti and captured by Mario Sorrenti [IG] at Villa L’Alma near Milan.
Pucci Artistic Director Camille Miceli has invited us to Rome on April 4 to view Vivara in action as "one of the house's most iconic prints, dating back to 1965 and featured in all the archives."
To many of us, Pucci is an absolute jewel, with speculation-only 2023 revenue of $100m. If any group can nurture her to Pucci’s maximum potential, it’s LVMH.
Previously working under LVMH’s Sidney Toledano as the chief executive of smaller brands like Celine and Fendi, Camille Micelli at Pucci — along with Belgian fashion executive Saar Debrouwere as Pucci CEO — will operate under the guidance of Michael Burke, who recently took the helm from Toledano.
I dig deeply into the LVMH approach to developing talent in the Michael Burke link above.
Read MoreChanel SS-2024 Campaign Shot by Inez & Vinoodh at Historic Villa Noailles
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Coco Chanel's connection to Villa Noailles [IG] is a fascinating chapter in fashion history. That unique relationship is expressed in the Chanel [IG] Spring 2024 ad campaign and also in lush floral prints inspired by the villa itself, located in Hyères, in the heart of the South of France.
This year, the campaign stars actor Riley Keough, named days ago as Chanel’s new ambassador, alongside longtime Chanel muse, supermodel Rianne Van Rompaey.
Villa Noailles was celebrated at Chanel’s Spring 2024 PFW runway show last October. The new campaign by frequent Chanel collaborators Inez and Vinoodh [IG], unfolds in the villa’s garden and its iconic pink room, envisioned as sanctuaries of creativity and happiness for the Chanel woman.
Read MoreZara Spring 2024 Studio Collection Campaign by Steven Meisel and Fabien Baron
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Zara [IG] drops its Studio Collection twice a year, with today’s Spring 2024 drop called Rêveries.
Real-world models include Fei Fei Sun, Nyawurh Chuol, rising model Rosalieke Fuchs and Vivienne Rohner. Are they pondering Betty Friedan’s life-changing book ‘The Feminine Mystique’ [1963] — but are not quite ready to tackle the deeply philosophical and life-unsettling Simone de Bouveoir treatise ‘The Second Sex’ [1949]?
Steven Meisel [IG] shoots the quartet in rich, mid-century midtones, sheerish blouses, cardigans and pencil skirts, complemented by interior furniture in sensual hues and slowly-increasing sunlight.
Read MoreRalph Lauren Collection Spring 2024 with Felice Nova Noordhoff, Maty Fall and Sui He +
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Ralph Lauren Collection Spring 2024 releases key images on Instagram and Ralph Lauren online, presumably with a print campaign to follow. Models in the first release include Adele Aldighieri, Bruno Tenorio, Felice Nova Noordhoff, Maty Fall and Sui He are lensed by Carter Berg [IG].
Whatever you think of this bold Ralph Lauren design formula, it’s working in the corporate financial statements.
Excellent Holiday 2023 Performance at Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren reported its third quarter sales — which include holiday 2023 — on February 8, 2024. The results put Ralph Lauren in LVMH territory, with their organic revenue growth of 10%, and not Kering Group, who reported a 5% holiday sales decrease.
Read MoreRumor: Louis Vuitton Is At Bat for Beverly Hills Cheval Blanc Property
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WWD shared the unconfirmed rumor that Louis Vuitton hopes to take over the defeated proposal for a 109-key Cheval Blanc hotel on the 50,000 sq foot property on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.
LVMH thought they had a deal going last spring for the Cheval Blanc in Beverly Hills. AOC knew LVMH had the wrong team negotiating on their behalf, long before we wrote the end of the very close vote story.
Weekend Paris Protests at New Louis Vuitton Hotel Site
The circumstances of the 2023 Cheval Blanc Beverly Hills no-vote is even more relevant today, after protesters took over the Paris construction site of the new Louis Vuitton hotel and store in Paris this weekend.
Read MoreVogue China Editor-in-Chief Margaret Zhang Departs End of March 2024
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Margaret Zhang’s tenure as editor-in-chief of Vogue China will be a short one.
Condé Nast chief content officer Anna Wintour shared the news with Vogue China staff in an email on Friday that Zhang will be leaving the publication at the end of March when her contract expires.
Youngest EIC Ever
Zhang’s appointment to the prestigious position of editor-in-chief in February 2021 redefined the career skills propelling a professional talent into such a prestigious position. Not only was Zhang the youngest Vogue editor ever at just 27, she was the first influencer — and one with little magazine experience — to be named a top editor at any Vogue edition.
Read MoreGisele Bündchen's Balmain Spring 2024 Campaign by Rafael Pavarotti
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If you believe in the dopamine dressing effects of bold colors on the brain, the new Gisele Bündchen Balmain Spring 2024 campaign is better than a 90% bioavailability liquid infusion of vitamin B.
Gisele, you can use your brain-activation talents in a patriotic way for your second-home country.
Gisele, how about joining forces with Taylor Swift in an American 2024 presidential election get-out-the-vote campaign? No choosing sides; just get folks to register in their states and vote for their preferred candidate.
As Trump bears down on Taylor Swift in the coming months, she could use a shoulder to lean on. Don’t worry, yummy mummy. Just show off your Jiu-Jitsu moves, Gisele, and MAGA will stand down. PS: they say nasty things about you, girl.
Read MoreDevyn, Doutzen, Imaan, Lily, Mayowa: New Body by Victoria 2024 Campaign
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Models Devyn Garcia, Doutzen Kroes, Imaan Hammam, Lily Aldridge and Mayowa Nicholas invite us into Victoria’s Secret 7.0, or whatever version we’on at this point. Anne is totally lost.
It’s great, though to see such a high-quality cast assembled on behalf of the new Body by Victoria 2024 Campaign.[IG] Photographer Mikael Jansson [IG] captures the quintet, styled by Camilla Nickerson. / Makeup by Mark Carrasquillo; hair by James Pecis
We don’t know the annual results for VS, which had another very tough year in revenue and profitability in 2023. Those results will become public on March 7, 2024.
It seemes that the global fashion show documentary did not fare particularly well, as VS chief executive Martin Waters said — speaking about a list of VS actions to reinvigorate the entire business, not only the renewed 2023 fashion show: “Despite everyone’s best endeavours, it’s not been enough to carry the day.”
Read MoreAOC Revisits Jennifer Garner's Once Upon a Farm As PBC Kids Food Company
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Healthy Food for Kids Unites Jennifer Garner and Ron Finley
It’s been over five years since AOC wrote about Jennifer Garner’s co-owned business ‘Once Upon a Farm’. Our focus in summer 2018 was the actor’s support of Ron Finley, the Gangsta Gardener of the Ron Finley Project.
Jennifer Garner got AOC’s attention today after seeing a Fortune Magazine headline that Once Upon a Farm is now a $100 million business eyeing an IPO.
AOC knew in 2018 that Once Upon a Farm had B-Corp status. But we were confused reading today that the company also registered as a Public Benefit Corporation [PBC] in 2021.
Of course, we asked: What’s a PBC? Now we have some answers.
Read MoreTod's Group and L Catterton Sign Deal to Delist from Italian Stock Exchange or Merge
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On Super Bowl Sunday, the Tod’s-LVMH decades-long business connection went into high gear with news that Tod’s Diego Della Valle, his brother Andrea Della Valle and the LVMH-backed private equity firm L Catterton have entered an agreement involving the launch of a tender offer at €43 per Tod’s share. The goal of delisting Tods’Group from the Italian stock exchange is in sight.
Today’s financial offer will leave the Della Valle Family with a 54 percent stake in Tod’s Group capital and assets; L Catterton will indirectly own 36 percent and Delphine SAS [a fully-owned subsidiary of LVMH] will retain a 10 percent stake.
Tod’s first announced a desire to delist its company from the Italian stock exchange in August 2022. That effort failed in October 2022, when a bid launched solely by the Della Valle family failed to reach the 90% threshold required to delist.
Anne of Carversville wrote days ago about about our growing understanding of the management style of LVMH/Bernard Arnault-trained executives. The trees planted have deep roots that bear premium fruit with long-term alliances, strong interpersonal friendships, trust and loyalties. It’s impressive.
Read More8 of Fashion's Biggest Names Honor Donna Karan Relaunch Lensed by Annie Leibovitz
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In 1992 American designer Donna Karan launched her campaign “In Women We Trust” shot by Peter Lindbergh. That fashion maverick statement about female leadership and competence was celebrated again today — not with America’s first woman president which we’ve all hoped for — but with photographer legend Annie Leibovitz gathering eight models so famous that they can go by their first names without confusion.
Featured in the Donna Karan revival campaign are Amber Valletta, Carolyn Murphy, Cindy Crawford, Imaan Hammam, Karlie Kloss, Linda Evangelista, Liya Kebede and Shalom Harlow.
Photographer Leibovitz shot the campaign in a Brooklyn warehouse, with video by Barbara Leibovitz Hellman and styling by Jessica Diehl.
Read MoreLVMH Maison Acqua di Parma Yellow Cafe Opens in Seoul, Korea Designed by Dorothee Meilicjzon
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