Inside the Mind of Dior Creative Director Jonathan Anderson: How His Imagination Thrived at LOEWE
/
Maria Grazia Chiuri Says 'Au Revoir' to Dior | AOC Shares a Breadcrumb from Jonathan Anderson
/
Maria Grazia Chiuri Says 'Au Revoir' to Dior | AOC Shares a Breadcrumb from Jonathan Anderson
I want to speak a moment about what I interpreted as a Grade A***** breadcrumb to Chiuri’s fans from the new Dior Men’s Artistic Director, also ‘waiting in the wings for the next big announcement’ regarding Dior Women.
For those of us for whom Chiuri is an absolute goddess on every level, Anderson’s quiet gesture might have been a coincidence. But I come from the school of people who believe there is no such thing as a coincidence at the highest levels of LVMH. Not like this one.
it was Jonathan Anderson’s ad campaign and film for his LOEWE Spring Summer 2025 Pre-Collection campaign that was a breadcrumb ‘diamond in the rough’ message.
The message was the arrival of Lilith, the mythological demon goddess believed to be Adam’s first wife. Lilith had no desire to be a tradwife, and she stormed out of the Garden of Eden.
Read MoreGlobal Trade Routes Are Key to Jo Malone's History of Fragrance and Food Festing
/
Global Trade Routes Are Key to Jo Malone's History of Fragrance and Food Festing
Out of the kitchen and onto the portico, Jo Malone creates a delicious vision of high-style British dining, brought to life by Samuel Bradley [IG]. AOC means Jo Malone the brand, owned by Estee Lauder since 1999.
One of Princess Kate’s forever favorites is Jo Malone’s Orange Blossom cologne, which first debuted in 2003. The fragrance is described as a ‘shimmering garden oasis’ and ‘pure delight’, with a scent created with white floral notes of tangerine and orange blossom.
In a world where 45% of consumers say they are prepared to use natural ingredients or food products as substitutes in their beauty routines, foods influence on beauty and fragrance is higher impact than ever.
As Curion research points out, 40% of consumers now prioritize natural ingredients in beauty products.
Tracing the history of global trade routes is another focus of AOC, and Anne could be lost for days in new discoveries. AOC is infused with these learnings.
Read MoreVogue Italia's June 2025 Fendi Focus Is Timely As LVMH Titans 'Up the Ante'
/
LVMH Titans Vuitton and Dior Create a Super Brands Team
I see these two LVMH titan brands — Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior — as bookends in this critical luxury business moment.
LVMH has a serious poker hand: Celine will debut in July with its new designer Michael Rider. The word in financial circles is that Loro Piana has edged out Celine in the 2.25-2.5 billion range.
If Fendi will meet the divine, luxury-brand goddess, LVMH financial rainmaker for real — in Rome, where her heart and spirit want to be, this team is playing on steroids, in this high-pressure, no mistakes allowed business moment.
All Roads Lead to Rome, But About Avignon . . .
Especially because AOC is so deep in writing about the Crusades, the birth of humanism and now Pope Leo as a foil to MAGA Republicans, my jaw-dropped as low as it ever has, when Nicolas Ghesquière, Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton Women roared into Avignon last week.
When LV roared out of town, the world’s biggest luxury brand had delivered a big message to all parties. To AOC LV said:
“For crying out loud, Anne. You love that our Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris has Adam, Eve and Lilith installed in a relief. Do you seriously think that the French were not deeply involved in the launch of the Renaissance?
If we’re in another historical moment that changes the course of history, France is center stage. Capeesh?
We had to move the Papacy to Avignon from 1309 to 1377, because Rome looked like a MAGA rally on January 6, 2021. Why don’t you write up that story, Anne!”
Trust me, guys. It’s all in the hopper. ~ Anne
Read MoreExactly Why is Gucci Poised for a Rebound? Industry Minds Are Wondering
/
Exactly Why is Gucci Poised for a Rebound? Industry Minds Are Wondering
Kering’s Gucci sales for the three months ending Dec. 31 decreased 24%. Of course Kering chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault assures financial industry professionals that Gucci is poised for a rebound.
AOC has a one-word response: Why?
Bernstein’s global luxury goods analyst Luca Solca believes he knows how to fix the problem, declaring recently that Gucci:
“needs a new, heavyweight creative director, and it needs it now. The task is to add an original and compelling fashion twist on the cleansed Gucci image Sabato De Sarno has contributed to create: more elegant, more qualitative, but dull.
A heavyweight designer [say Hedi Slimane — the most likely candidate in our view — or John Galliano or Maria Grazia Chiuri, for example] could restart the buzz around the brand, and help it to regain center stage.”
Read MoreL'Oreal Group Invests in Jacquemus Retail Expansion and Future Beauty Business
/
L'Oreal Group Invests in Jacquemus Retail Expansion and Future Beauty Business
In spring 2024, the growing cult brand Jacquemus opened stores in Dubai, Capri, and Saint-Tropez, followed by New York and London last fall.
Jacquemus annual revenue estimates had climbed to $250 million, largely self-funded from the brand’s business operations.
Sharing the Jacquemus Holiday 2024 campaign, AOC reported that the brand had maxed out its growth opportunities until it obtained a minority investor.
On January 28, Jacquemus announced that it has tapped Celine North America president Sarah Benady as its next chief executive officer. There was no doubt that an announcement was coming soon in this perfectly-orchestrated business PR blitz based on business fundamentals and not marketing word salads.
The announcement came today, February 7, that L’Oréal Group has made a minority investment in Jacquemus to fund the house’s ongoing retail growth and expansion into the beauty sector.
Read MoreBrunello Cucinelli Reports Solid YTD 2024 Revenue Increase of 12.4%; Q3 Only 9.2%
/
Brunello Cucinelli released a strong 2024 nine-months revenue performance that runs counter to generally sluggish financial performance in the luxury sector.
In the third quarter itself, revenues rose 9.2% to 300 million euros ($325 million), with an increase even in China where the brand has limited exposure compared to brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton.
"With the substantial orders already placed for the Men's and Women's Spring-Summer 2025 sales campaign, we can reaffirm our plans for healthy, sustainable growth, projecting a revenue increase of around 10% for both 2025 and 2026," Executive Chairman Cucinelli said in a statement.
Read MoreBella Hadid’s Orabella Opened Door to Panpsychism and Humanism
/
Anne of Carversville hasn’t posted Elizaveta Porodina’s images of Bella Hadid’s Orabella ‘skin-nourishing’ fragrances campaign until today.
Given the cosmic energy of these two uber-creative humans — Bella Hadid and Elizaveta Porodina — Anne had every confidence that we would get to now.
Reading an Apple News article ‘Human Consciousness Is an Illusion, Scientists Say‘ became the door that opened posting Bella’s Orabella images this morning.
Many scientists and thinkers believe the entire universe may have an internal mind, and the phrase ‘we are all connected’ is meant to be taken literally.
Read MoreNike SS 2024 Media Taps Dan Beleiu's Personal, Colorful, Energetic Images
/
If this isn’t the first Nike project for Dan Beleiu, AOC doesn’t know about the other ones — and I just looked. Beleiu’s sophisticated, modern, high-energy style is perfect for Nike.
With Dan’s IG always hopeless, AOC followed an Ian Salter set design link on IG, which is where we hit paydirt and a bigger understanding of the project.
The Nike Spring/Summer 2024 Campaign was styled by Mindy LeBrock with makeup by Rika Shimada. We also met key Nike execs in charge on the client end of the shoot.
Read MoreChanel Coco Beach 2024 Campaign Drifts in Calm Waters As Chanel Changes Course
/
Luxury brand Chanel [IG] delivers a fresh and modern summer Coco Beach 2024 campaign starring Danish model Olivia Vinten lensed by Cass Bird [IG].
At Chanel, Let the Good Times Roll
Chanel is riding high off a 16 percent revenue increase in annual sales over 2023. Price increases alone drove up sales by around 9 percent, according to BoF.
Chanel CFO Philippe Blondiaux praised Virginie Viard’s contributions to Chanel’s major growth in his BoF interview. Days later, the artistic director was escorted out the door.
With Viard seeming out-of-touch with the world at large at times, and given Coco Chanel’s own delicate political history in Europe, AOC is on the record saying we’re watching the brand like a hawk. We continue to write today from that updated perspective.
Read MoreRihanna's Vogue China Cover Story and Fenty Beauty in China at Sephora
/
Former Vogue China [IG] EIC Margaret Zhang delivered Rihanna on her final April 2024 cover story for the magazine. Rihanna takes two print covers and three digital ones in her story ‘Rihanna: Beauty In Individuality’, styled by Alvin Yu in images by Hailun Ma [IG].
Fenty Beauty, the beauty brand entered the Chinese beauty market on April 1 and is now sold at Sephora stores in China.
Western media is not inclined to report on or explore exactly where western luxury brands stand in China, beyond the economics of money to spend. The Chinese government is deeply involved in monitoring the tensions between China’s desire to be part of the global luxury market, while also protecting China’s identity and values.
Read MoreZara Spring 2024 Studio Collection Campaign by Steven Meisel and Fabien Baron
/
Zara [IG] drops its Studio Collection twice a year, with today’s Spring 2024 drop called Rêveries.
Real-world models include Fei Fei Sun, Nyawurh Chuol, rising model Rosalieke Fuchs and Vivienne Rohner. Are they pondering Betty Friedan’s life-changing book ‘The Feminine Mystique’ [1963] — but are not quite ready to tackle the deeply philosophical and life-unsettling Simone de Bouveoir treatise ‘The Second Sex’ [1949]?
Steven Meisel [IG] shoots the quartet in rich, mid-century midtones, sheerish blouses, cardigans and pencil skirts, complemented by interior furniture in sensual hues and slowly-increasing sunlight.
Read MoreRalph Lauren Collection Spring 2024 with Felice Nova Noordhoff, Maty Fall and Sui He +
/
Ralph Lauren Collection Spring 2024 releases key images on Instagram and Ralph Lauren online, presumably with a print campaign to follow. Models in the first release include Adele Aldighieri, Bruno Tenorio, Felice Nova Noordhoff, Maty Fall and Sui He are lensed by Carter Berg [IG].
Whatever you think of this bold Ralph Lauren design formula, it’s working in the corporate financial statements.
Excellent Holiday 2023 Performance at Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren reported its third quarter sales — which include holiday 2023 — on February 8, 2024. The results put Ralph Lauren in LVMH territory, with their organic revenue growth of 10%, and not Kering Group, who reported a 5% holiday sales decrease.
Read MoreCandice Swanepoel's Tropic of C x Agua Bendita Swim in Mushrooms Lovefest
/
Today, supermodel Candice Swanepoel and Carolina Sanchez [IG] deliver divine new images lensed by Jerome Duran [IG] for the Tropic of C x Agua Bendita swimwear collaboration.
A Gaia Love Letter
Respect and joy over the gifts of the natural world are center stage for both brands: Tropic of C and Agua Bendita. Sustainability and a deep-seeded respect for Gaia are key brand planks.
Equally important, connections among mothers and their children send precious Gaia statements about human connections on earth.
Mushrooms on Two Levels of Symbolism: Ancient Worship and a Global Mushroom Network
The creation of a charming mushroom print for the Tropic of C x Agua Bendita drop has deep roots in many ancient cultures around the world.
In particular, our focus on psilocybin or ‘magic mushrooms’ is fundamental to the much-acclaimed rise of western civilization.
Read MoreVogue China Editor-in-Chief Margaret Zhang Departs End of March 2024
/
Margaret Zhang’s tenure as editor-in-chief of Vogue China will be a short one.
Condé Nast chief content officer Anna Wintour shared the news with Vogue China staff in an email on Friday that Zhang will be leaving the publication at the end of March when her contract expires.
Youngest EIC Ever
Zhang’s appointment to the prestigious position of editor-in-chief in February 2021 redefined the career skills propelling a professional talent into such a prestigious position. Not only was Zhang the youngest Vogue editor ever at just 27, she was the first influencer — and one with little magazine experience — to be named a top editor at any Vogue edition.
Read MoreGisele Bündchen's Balmain Spring 2024 Campaign by Rafael Pavarotti
/
If you believe in the dopamine dressing effects of bold colors on the brain, the new Gisele Bündchen Balmain Spring 2024 campaign is better than a 90% bioavailability liquid infusion of vitamin B.
Gisele, you can use your brain-activation talents in a patriotic way for your second-home country.
Gisele, how about joining forces with Taylor Swift in an American 2024 presidential election get-out-the-vote campaign? No choosing sides; just get folks to register in their states and vote for their preferred candidate.
As Trump bears down on Taylor Swift in the coming months, she could use a shoulder to lean on. Don’t worry, yummy mummy. Just show off your Jiu-Jitsu moves, Gisele, and MAGA will stand down. PS: they say nasty things about you, girl.
Read MoreDevyn, Doutzen, Imaan, Lily, Mayowa: New Body by Victoria 2024 Campaign
/
Models Devyn Garcia, Doutzen Kroes, Imaan Hammam, Lily Aldridge and Mayowa Nicholas invite us into Victoria’s Secret 7.0, or whatever version we’on at this point. Anne is totally lost.
It’s great, though to see such a high-quality cast assembled on behalf of the new Body by Victoria 2024 Campaign.[IG] Photographer Mikael Jansson [IG] captures the quintet, styled by Camilla Nickerson. / Makeup by Mark Carrasquillo; hair by James Pecis
We don’t know the annual results for VS, which had another very tough year in revenue and profitability in 2023. Those results will become public on March 7, 2024.
It seemes that the global fashion show documentary did not fare particularly well, as VS chief executive Martin Waters said — speaking about a list of VS actions to reinvigorate the entire business, not only the renewed 2023 fashion show: “Despite everyone’s best endeavours, it’s not been enough to carry the day.”
Read MoreAOC Revisits Jennifer Garner's Once Upon a Farm As PBC Kids Food Company
/
Healthy Food for Kids Unites Jennifer Garner and Ron Finley
It’s been over five years since AOC wrote about Jennifer Garner’s co-owned business ‘Once Upon a Farm’. Our focus in summer 2018 was the actor’s support of Ron Finley, the Gangsta Gardener of the Ron Finley Project.
Jennifer Garner got AOC’s attention today after seeing a Fortune Magazine headline that Once Upon a Farm is now a $100 million business eyeing an IPO.
AOC knew in 2018 that Once Upon a Farm had B-Corp status. But we were confused reading today that the company also registered as a Public Benefit Corporation [PBC] in 2021.
Of course, we asked: What’s a PBC? Now we have some answers.
Read More8 of Fashion's Biggest Names Honor Donna Karan Relaunch Lensed by Annie Leibovitz
/
In 1992 American designer Donna Karan launched her campaign “In Women We Trust” shot by Peter Lindbergh. That fashion maverick statement about female leadership and competence was celebrated again today — not with America’s first woman president which we’ve all hoped for — but with photographer legend Annie Leibovitz gathering eight models so famous that they can go by their first names without confusion.
Featured in the Donna Karan revival campaign are Amber Valletta, Carolyn Murphy, Cindy Crawford, Imaan Hammam, Karlie Kloss, Linda Evangelista, Liya Kebede and Shalom Harlow.
Photographer Leibovitz shot the campaign in a Brooklyn warehouse, with video by Barbara Leibovitz Hellman and styling by Jessica Diehl.
Read MoreZac Posen Tapped By GAP Inc. As EVP Creative Asset Across Gap Brands
/
