Pierpaolo Piccioli's Humanist-Focus Chapter Ends at Maison Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli's Humanist-Focus Chapter Ends at Maison Valentino

Responding to a request for comment from WWD, Valentino confirmed on March 22, 2024 the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli as creative director of Maison Valentino.

Kering’s Role is Unclear in the Mayhoola Decision

We don’t know what the role of Gucci-parent Kering has in this decision. Kering acquired 30% of Valentino in July, 2023, with an option to purchase the whole of Valentino's share capital no later than 2028.

Luxury Stocks Are Holding Steady with Kering Plunge of $6.8 Billion

As fashion’s titanic luxury brands ship rocks in a week that witnessed Kering stock lose $6.8 billion of value on Wednesday, following news of a 20% revenue decrease at Gucci, Kering is the hardest hit.

LVMH is holding steady and positive, along with other key brands like Brunello Cuccinelli and Ralph Lauren.

AOC believes that very different luxury brand marketing positions at these more ‘humanist-centered luxury brands’, coupled with deep bench strength in executive talent at LVMH — but also individual luxury brands like Cucinelli and Lauren — are positioning them to weather storms in the luxury sector.

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Jodie-Turner-Smith in Gucci Ancora Spring 2024 Collection in The Sunday Times Style

Jodie-Turner-Smith in Gucci Ancora Spring 2024 Collection in The Sunday Times Style

British actor and Gucci ambassador Jodie Turner-Smith drops her megawatt personality and positivity into The Sunday Times Style [IG] February 25, 2024. Daniel Gaines styles the actor in a range of Gucci Ancora leg-baring outfits from Sabato de Sarno’s first collection, lensed by Eric Johnson [IG]./ Hair by Ursula Stephens; makeup by Raisa Flowers

Scarlett Russell conducts the interview.

The High Value Gucci Connection

Turner-Smith has a very close relationship with Gucci since 2019, explaining that “the brand has always been my vibe.”

“I have such a deep and profound love and respect for them that they took a chance on a young actress who didn’t have anything behind her. A fashion deal, a fragrance deal — that is an incredible amount of support for someone in the business and for a black woman.

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Gucci Resort 2024 Campaign Essentials Lensed by Davit Giorgadze

Gucci Resort 2024 Campaign Essentials Lensed by Davit Giorgadze

Gucci releases images for its Gucci Resort 2024 campaign, styled by Luca Galasso. Models include Abas Abdirazaq, Ellis Ahn, Nyakong Chan, Rayssa Mediros and Seunghoo Kim posing in Gucci essentials.

Photographer Davit Giorgadze [IG] is behind the lens with creative direction by Cedric Murac./ Hair by Claire Grech; makeup by Lucy Bridge

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Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci Ancora Campaign Lensed by David Sims

Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci Ancora Campaign Lensed by David Sims

Gucci Ancora is creative director Sabato De Sarno’s ad campaign for his debut Gucci collection. The director’s choice of the word Ancora is an Italian terms that translates “again” in English.

Gucci Ancora is creative director Sabato De Sarno’s ad campaign for his debut Gucci collection. The director’s choice of the word Ancora is an Italian terms that translates “again” in English.

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Lila Moss in 'My Roman Empire' Gucci Story by Theo Liu for British Vogue February 2024

Lila Moss in 'My Roman Empire' Gucci Story by Theo Liu for British Vogue February 2024

Model Lila Moss is styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson in a Gucci advertorial ‘My Roman Empire’. Photographer Theo Liu [IG] is behind the lens for British Vogue February 2024.

WSJ reflected on Gucci and the brand’s new CEO Jean-Francois Palus, writing that Palus “embodies the severity of the changes: A Frenchman at the head of a company that is as Italian as Chianti, he isn’t yet fluent in the native language, nor does he have a creative background.”

Palus began his career as an auditor and financial adviser with Arthur Andersen. He then ran the books for the timber division of the conglomerate that would go on to become Kering.

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Billie Eilish for Horsebit 1955 Demetra Bag in Tyrell Hampton Campaign November 2023

Billie Eilish for Horsebit 1955 Demetra Bag in Tyrell Hampton Campaign November 2023

Billie Eilish is back at Gucci and let’s applaud that move. Without question Billie is a bridge between the respective visions of the two creative directors — Alessandro Michele and now Sabato De Sarno.

For Gucci, Billie Eilish has teamed up on a greenish version of their iconic Horsebit 1955 bag. The new version is crafted from Demetra, a 75% plant-based, animal-free material that has been produced in Italy since 2021.

Gucci launched sneakers made of Demetra two years ago. The bags also use recycled ECONYL nylon made from regenerated ghost nets, carpets, and pre-consumer waste. Prada and Burberry were leaders in the development of ECONYL with products coming to market in 2019. Demetra is tanned in accordance with Gucci’s century-old standard practices.

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Daria Werbowy Plunges Into Gucci's Marina Chain Campaign Lensed by David Sims

Daria Werbowy Plunges Into Gucci's Marina Chain Campaign Lensed by David Sims

Canadian-Ukrainian fashion model goddess Daria Werbowy has been sorely missed since she left fashion modeling in 2016.

Daria is set to return to fashion world — on her terms and ONLY on her terms. Phoebe Philo’s eponymous new label, due to launch in September but not with a runway show, delivers a long-anticipated re-pairing of artist and muse.

Apparently, Daria Werbowy is also part of the Gucci relaunch. In these new images, the model and muse is seen in the chunky gold Gucci Marina Chain jewelry, magnifying an archival motif inspired by the maritime world.

It’s expected that Daria Werbowy will be the face of a larger fashion campaign, beyond this jewelry release photographed in Los Angeles at Chateau Marmont by David Sims [IG], with styling by Alastair McKimm.

Anne of Carversville doesn’t have current Daria Werbowy archives, but we’re spending a lot of time reassembling her best work in our very successful project of refreshing archives pre-2020. Note that these redone archives aren’t in chronological order.

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As Gucci Pursues An 'Exclusive Elevated Path', Anne Says 'Watch for Landmines'

As Gucci Pursues An 'Exclusive Elevated Path', Anne Says 'Watch for Landmines'

In-transition luxury house Gucci presents its Fall Winter 2023 campaign featuring Vittoria Ceretti, Aboubakar Konte and Brando Erba, lensed by photographer David Sims [IG].

Alastair McKimm styles the cast with hair by Paul Hanlon and makeup by Thomas De Kluyver. “Brakhage” by Stereolab is the music in the campaign video.

I noted a few months ago that we didn’t even post the new Gucci Valigeria campaign video, thinking it was just a stop along the way of Gucci’s reinvention. But that mistake was AOC’s.

The video is exactly in sync with the Fall 2023 campaign.

Many luxury brands — Louis Vuitton immediately comes to mind, but also Dior — are redefining luxury in more humanist terms. This branding does not prevent exclusive salons for best customers. But our common humanity — or ubuntu — is part of the luxury brand story.

Look at the new RIMOWA campaign, as a good example.

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Gucci 'An Ode to Love' Campaign with Wen Qi and Daniel Zhou Shot by Leslie Zhang

Gucci 'An Ode to Love' Campaign with Wen Qi and Daniel Zhou Shot by Leslie Zhang

There’s an A-team on this new summer 2023 campaign including art directors Kevin Tekinel and Charles Levai, director Tin Seoi and photographer Leslie Zhang [IG], whose photography we love. Taiwanese actor Wen Qi and Chinese singer Daniel Zhou star are the lovebirds.

AOC disagrees with more than one fashion writer who has seen this new Gucci ‘An Ode to Love’ campaign and responded with words of praise that storytelling is back at Gucci. Whew!

This new campaign is pure and innocent — which is not how Alessandro Michele served it up. He took you into the setting to experience the imagery yourself, not as an observer.

In my case, he sometimes admonished me [metaphorically], because I wasn’t in the mood to be part of the joke. Yet I chuckled when he grabbed me by the arm, saying “Would you take a damn break, Anne, and let your imagination run wild. Come and play with us.”

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GUCCI Summer Stories 2023 Collection by Harley Weir Is an Accessories Feast

GUCCI Summer Stories 2023 Collection by Harley Weir Is an Accessories Feast

Italian luxury brand Gucci artfully makes another transition statement under new creative director Sabato De Sarno. Yes, we see the changes, but it’s an evolution that’s not trying to burn bridges built by Alessandro Michele.

Fashion photographer Harley Weir [IG] captures models Adarsh Jaikarran, Aivita Mūze, Indira Scott, Kevon Adonis Gyamfi, Pierce Abernathy and Sora Choi styled by Mel Ottenberg. Art direction comes from Charles Levai and Kevin Tekinel. / Hair by Mustafa Yanaz; makeup by Diane Kendal

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Gucci Fine Jewelry 'Link to Love' 2023 Androgynous Stackable Collection

Gucci Fine Jewelry 'Link to Love' 2023 Androgynous Stackable Collection

Italian luxury brand Gucci unveils its latest fine jewelry 'Link to Love' campaign with a focus on self-expression and individualism but through connection. 

The ‘Link to Love’ collection’s signature octagonal shape channels religious symbolism worldwide. Octagrams formed from overlapping squares often emphasize duality: yin and yang, male and female, spiritual and material, while having a major place in global religions from Christianity to Hindualism, including also a significant place in Jewish mysticism.

This symbolism seems particularly relevent to Gucci’s embrace of a modern, androgynous, sleek design in the ‘Link to Love’ campaign. AOC just discovered major ties to the earliest deities — a transition period between goddesses were worshipped exclusively and patriarchy where God is male and women got the boot.

For example, Old Kingdom Egyptians recognized a group of eight deities, four male and four female, with the female bearing feminine forms of the male names: Nu, Nanet, Amun, Amunet, Kuk, Kauket, Huh, and Hauhet.

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Liu Wen Fronts New Gucci Bamboo 1947 Handbag, Lensed by David Sims

Liu Wen Fronts New Gucci Bamboo 1947 Handbag, Lensed by David Sims

In a new Spring 2023 campaign, Gucci celebrates the enduring style of its iconic Bamboo 1947 handbag. Supermodel Liu Wen is centerstage in images and video lensed by David Sims, with creative direction from Ezra Petronio & Lana Petrusevych./ Hair by Paul Hanlon; makeup by Thomas De Kluyver

The Gucci Bamboo 1947 handbag, originally known by its product number 0633, has a rich history that dates back to post-war Italy. In 1947, Europe was still recovering from the aftermath of World War II, and resources were scarce. Leather, a primary material used in fashion at the time, was in short supply, forcing designers to find alternative materials for their creations.

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Esther Heesch in Gucci Cruise 2023 by George Katsanakis for Harper's Bazaar Greece

Esther Heesch in Gucci Cruise 2023 by George Katsanakis for Harper's Bazaar Greece

German model Esther Heesch greets 2023 in a Gucci fashion story covering the January issue of Harper’s Bazaar Greece. The ‘Gucci Cosmogonie’ Cruise 2023 Collection took a turn in the direction of sophisticated elegance with a strong hit of verve.

Simultaneously, Gucci has opened its first Valigeria Luggage store in Paris to advance its footprint in the luxury travel sector.

Harper’s Greece calls the expansion of the ‘Gucci Valigeria’ DNA is the pursuit for an “endless journey based on knowledge, experience, freedom and style”. AOC says that the ‘endless journey’ referenced by Harper’s Greece must include having an inquiring mind.

Being truly inquisitive about the heritage and true stories of other cultures is mandatory for luxury houses pursuing this business path. Our own knowledge as western liberals is deeply flawed and filled — not only with prejudice — but also ignorance about other great, ancient cultures.

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Rabbits Are Rising for Mushroom Lovers

Rabbits Are Rising for Mushroom Lovers

With the Gregorian calendar’s New Year’s Day upon us in hours, and the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rabbit ringing in the Lunar New Year on January 22, 2023, Gucci releases a beautiful and without controversy campaign that celebrates two global cultures and also Easter 2023, coming on April 9.

Thank you to perhaps the most soulful creative in fashion — Alessandro Michele, formerly of Gucci. I am certainly one of the people who only recently expressed my understanding of your vision and perspective.

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Gucci Opens Valigeria Luggage Store in Paris, Expanding Travel Category

Gucci Opens Valigeria Luggage Store in Paris, Expanding Travel Category

Gucci has opened its first permanent boutique dedicated to its Gucci Valigeria luggage and travel collection. Located in Paris at 229 Rue Saint-Honoré, the 2,900-square-foot-location was previously dedicated to Off-White.

“Gucci Valigeria is a powerful reminder of our Florentine roots and our timeless craft,” said Marco Bizzarri, the president and CEO of Gucci, calling the Paris store collection a “symbol of [the Gucci] legacy, reinterpreted through the ages for the travelers and modern-day explorers of every era.”

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2023 Gucci Cruise 'Cosmogonie' Campaign Ode to Philosophy Bridging Space & Time

 2023 Gucci Cruise 'Cosmogonie' Campaign Ode to Philosophy Bridging Space & Time

AOC had not viewed the 2023 Gucci Cruise Collection Cosmogonie video. Transported emotionally and psychologically by the recent Dior Cruise 2023 show, I am even more impacted by the 2023 Gucci Cruise presentation.

Never has AOC connected so deeply with Gucci’s now-departed creative director Alessandro Michele.

Michele was inspired by the work of Walter Benjamin, a 20th-century, German-Jewish philosopher, cultural critic and essayist.

Benjamin deserves his own AOC post in this moment of the daily drumbeat of hate against progressive thinkers from Donald Trump, Kanye West and many others.

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Isabelle Hinrichs Wears Gucci 'Hortus Deliciarum' Collection #3 in L'Officiel Global

Isabelle Hinrichs Wears Gucci 'Hortus Deliciarum' Collection #3 in L'Officiel Global

Model Isabelle Hinrichs showcases the debut of Gucci’s third high-jewelry collection ‘Hortus Deliciarum’, posing at the beautiful Palazzo Visconti in Milan.

German/Swedish photographer Per Appelgren [IG] captures the rich, retro elegance styled by Alessia Caliendo for L’Officiel editions worldwide.

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Confirmed: Gucci Creatve Director Alessandro Michele Has Departed

Confirmed: Gucci Creatve Director Alessandro Michele Has Departed

Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele has left the Kering-owned luxury brand. Note:

The former accessories designer is credited with reviving Gucci's popularity with undeniably Gucci flamboyant and gender-fluid styles. That can be part of the problem in a fashion culture that is always on the move.

François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Kering, said of Michele: “His passion, his imagination, his ingenuity and his culture put Gucci centre stage, where its place is. I wish him a great next chapter in his creative journey.”

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Adut Akech, Gigi Hadid, He Cong, Imaan Hammam V139 Magazine by Adrienne Raquel

Adut Akech, Gigi Hadid, He Cong, Imaan Hammam V139 Magazine by Adrienne Raquel

Adut’s five-year rise from a South Sudan, Australian Refugee to REAL supermodel status is well known by now. Being a Global Ambassador for Estee Lauder, announced in June 2021, goes a long way in wearing the real-deal supernodel crown.

Adut’s career was launched when she closed the Saint Laurent spring/summer 2018 show in Paris. Many young people in fashion — or outsiders with lots to say — think the industry only turned towards models of color post-George Floyd and the rise of BLM.

This is not true. Demands for change and the topic of racism in the fashion industry was much discussed and acted upon before the brutal murder of George Floyd by police in Minneapolis.

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