Examining the 3rd quarter results, few media reports note that the 2025 comps are up against the Paris 2024 Olympics. The projected 4% decrease, not the 2% decrease reported today by LVMH, affirms the reality that flying into strong headwinds, the fashion and leather sector delivered news to applaud, not critique as an extension of a “long-running decline” now entering its 4th quarter.
The “Long-running Decline” Label Belongs to Gucci
For the full year 2024, Gucci revenue fell 23% on a comparable basis. In the first half of 2025, revenue was down 25% on a comparable basis.
There is great confidence in the business leadership and financial acumen being shown by new Kering CEO Luca de Meo leading the parent company Kering and the Gucci turnaround, in particular.
AOC’s issue all year is that the business reporting on LVMH has bordered on reckless and just plain wrong at times. As a result the LVMH stock price has taken needless hits in valuation that could put a smaller, less-well run business in deep financial distress.
The woman of the hour the day after Matthieu Blazy blew the doors off the House of Chanel with his monumental October 6, 2025 Chanel Spring 2026 debut is Awar Odhiang.
Not only did Odhiang become the third Black model in history to close a Chanel show. Blazy’s goodwill closer circled the catwalk like she owned the place and wanted a uniquely-memorable sendoff for the top dog of Paris Fashion Week.
The ancestors were rockin’ and yes — Coco had Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel by her side and even Karl Lagerfeld had a front row seat in the divine universe and was god-blessing Blazy over and over and over again. Lagerfeld always championed exceptional talent.
The world’s top models wearing H&M’s off-duty casual femininity from designer Eliana Masgalos between shows includes Alex Consani,Awar Odhiang, Diane Chu, Jacqui Hooper, Maty Fall, Mariacarla Boscono, Mona Tougaard, Paloma Elsesser, Sora Choi and Vittoria Ceretti. Some models had their dollie sidekicks riding shotgun.
This campaign is part of H&M’s larger strategy around their participation in global fashion events. The brand becomes a global fashion voice — not by competing with their own runway show — but by becoming part of everyone’s show in a very democratic way.
Frankly, this strategy appeals to the models, who continue to seek greater direct influence in fashion week action and events. Translated, they want to have roles beyond being a mannequin. The best example of this desire — and ability — was model Awar Odhiang’s spontaneous ‘hostess with the mostess’ takeover of the closing of Matthieu Blazy’s fabulous Chanel debut.
On the subject of Fendi, with Silvia Venturini Fendi being named honorary president and allowing a new creative director to take the reins of the Fendi luxury brand, AOC assumes that Maria Grazia Chiuri will step into the spotlight as the new creative head of women’s and probably men’s as well.
I’ve defended the Anderson decision when other women fashion writers were ripping into LVMH — going so far out on the limb as to say on WaPo: “Calm down. She’s going to Fendi. LVMH is not so stupid as to throw Chiuri to the curb, when some VIP women clients may not even like the new Dior.”
Celine designer and artistic director Michael Rider shares a new Spring 2026 Campaign with a focus on bags. Four models — Boma Sunday, Kylie Young, Svetlana Lethelier and Victoria Blecher — are styled by Ewa Kluczenko in key pieces from The Garance, The Cabas New Luggage, The Besace Soft Triomphe and more collections.
PhotographerZoe Ghertner [IG] is in the studio, with creative direction by Charles Levai and Kevin Tekinel./ Hair by Duffy; makeup by Lucia Pieroni
“At Ralph Lauren, no one would accept that I was American—I was French to them,” the designer reflects. “And my whole life in Europe, I have always been the most American person in the room.”
The Beverly Hills Planning Commission unanimously approved the proposed Louis Vuitton flagship store and exhibition space at its September 25th meeting. In a LVMH saga AOC has followed for several years, the commission approved a Development Plan Review, a Conditional Use Permit and Rooftop Dining Permit. designed by architect Frank Gehry.
Designed by architect Frank Gehry, and located on Rodeo Drive, the Louis Vuitton cutting-edge, experiential design complex will span the block of South Santa Monica Boulevard between Rodeo and Beverly Drive.
Gehry’s sculptural design imprint for three-story windowless building includes two buildings with pedestrian bridges and an inner courtyard. Peter Marino is in charge of interior design.
LOEWE [IG] creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez introduce a series of images, captured by photographer Talia Chetrit [IG] as visual vibes of their approach to expressing the DNA of the LOEWE brand.
“This teaser stands as an opening gesture, the outset of a new dialogue,” the American designers and founders of the Proenza Schouler brand expressed. “The campaign begins to define a tone, a spirit, and the beginnings of an intent.”
The expressed sensuality is clear to the naked eye and it teeters on an expressed homoeroticism for an opening statement.
Models Anne Floor Wetemans [aka Anne Floor] and Betsy Gaghan pose in ‘La Scuola Prada’, a cohesive fashion story focused on the intellectual mindset of Miuccia Prada as revealed in ongoing examinations by fashion media of the Prada archives.
Photographer Jamie Hawkesworth [IG] captures the story for Harper’s Bazaar Italy’s September 2025 issue.
Think China. And Rong Zhai
Prada has injected this creative examination of its archives and the Galleria bag, in particular, into a weekend event at the brand’s four-story Rong Zhai, a restored historical mansion blending Art Deco and Chinese motifs in downtown Shanghai. The cultural center has been transformed into a cinematic villa that moves beyond a focus on the current creative collaboration between Johansson and Lanthimos.
As one of Prada’s bestsellers, the Galleria bag does command its own attention and focus at this second ‘Prada Gallery Invites’. Italian craftsmen will be on site to offer live demonstration of the production process, to facilitate Galleria personalization orders and also offer leather care services.
The Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 Campaign showcasing the first collection under new creative director Julian Klausner is shot by in-demand photographer Carlijn Jacobs [IG]. The location of the ‘Behind the Curtain’ Campaign is Opéra Garnier, located in The Palais Garnier and commissioned by Napolean III for the Paris Opera and built from 1861 to 1875.
Watching the fashion show video, it was obvious that the new Dries Van Noten collection embraced old Dries, but Klausner had also injected a new vibe into the collection that could only be his own.
As I noted on Tuesday in a deep dive into the Prada Galleria bag campaign, the ancient history of rituals goes far deeper than the pursuit of shiny hair while admiring ourselves in the mirror. Like Prada, the Dries Van Noten brand has credentials when the focus is rituals.
Having watched us trivialize the concept of duality into nothingness, I sincerely hope we don’t put the word ‘ritual’ through the same meat grinder.
Prada ambassador Scarlett Johansson fronts her third Prada Galleria [IG] bag campaign, directed by Yorgos Lanthimos. Prada regular Ferdinando Verderi provided creative direction for a handbag Prada calls a “totem of change.”
It’s the first time the two creatives Johansson and Lanthimos have worked together.
A totem of change: It’s indisputable that the Prada Galleria campaign is focused on rituals, which have evolved among humans for thousands of years and are closely aligned with religion and spirituality. When you call a handbag a “totem of change”, this creative team is placing the Galleria on a significant pedestal.
The Prada campaign lovingly mocks rituals with Johannson embracing a very long — and seemingly absurd to-do list given her by an ‘other’ self — in the execution of her particular ceremony.
From the standpoint of human psychology, Carl Jung called Johansson’s other self, the “shadow self”, and we see her operating in the film.
Edward Enninful [IG] embarks on a big week in his latest — and greatest — fashion industry, personal metamorphosis with his inaugural Moncler Genius collection, titled Moncler x EE72. Edward has worked with Moncler in the past, but not in his official capacity as designer.
Moncler and Enninful bring this Moncler x EE72 vision to life with a window display at Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York Flagship, timed with the start of New York Fashion Week. The presentation spans seven windows at 5th Avenue and 50th Street.
Tonight September 12 Edward will officially launch his new quarterly 72 Magazine.
Model Mila van Eeten wears the latest pieces from Aquazzura, Chloe, David Koma, Dolce & Gabbana, Khaite, Magda Butrym, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Tom Ford and more, photographed by Jorin Koers [IG] for Mytheresa [IG] Hair by Alessandro Rebecchi; makeup by Carlos Saidel
The New LuxExperience Platform
Last week the Munich-based, German e-tailer Mytheresa said that about 700 employees might be impacted as the profitable e-tailer integrates Yoox-Net-a-Porter [YNAP] into the new company LuxExperience.
The acquisition positions the new luxury brands internet platform to become the largest player in luxury e-commerce. Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont, YNAP’s previous owner, is footing the bill by recapitalising YNAP with €555 million in exchange for a 33 percent stake in Mytheresa, and an additional €100 million six-year revolving credit facility.
The Tory Burch [IG] FW 2025 Campaign gives us a moment to check-in with one of AOC’s favorite brands. Models Hejia Li, Ida Heiner, Lulu Tenney, Nora Attal, and Selena Forrest bond in New York City in a campaign lensed by Jamie Hawkesworth [IG].
Strong performance in 2024: Multiple reports from early 2025 cite Tory Burch's financial strength in 2024, noting the brand sold an estimated $1.8 billion worth of products.
Huge Ambition Goals at the Tory Burch Foundation
In early May 2025, the Inaugural Tory Burch Foundation Founders Breakfast honored Martha Stewart, while Burch unveiled an ambitious new pledge: to generate more than $1 billion in economic impact through women entrepreneurs by 2030.
Burberry [IG] Creative Director Daniel Lee takes us to Wolterton Hall in Norfolk, England, a historic British setting that served as a key source of inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2025 collection and now the campaign.
Lee brings the sumptuous yet restrained location to life again in the appropriately-named Burberry Fall/Winter 2025 ‘A Grand Escape’ campaign, lensed by Sam Rock [IG].
Britain’s favorite heritage brand is far from being out of the woods, but Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman cited recently a notable uptick in Burberry’s brand desirability. Best of all, he said the Autumn 2025 collection is being "well received by a broad range of luxury customers".
AOC shares strong praise for how creative director Daniel Lee has delivered a strong reboot collection that is sumptuous and elegant with major visual appeal.
There are many reasons why Louis Vuitton adores America and has an extra deep love affair with California. Progressive, multicultural, artistic in multiple disciplines, great weather, big money, and a maverick spirit all make the list for why LVMH and several maisons — but especially Louis Vuitton — have California Dreamin’ in their blood.
WWD shared in February 2024 the unconfirmed rumor that Louis Vuitton hopes to take over the defeated proposal for a 109-key Cheval Blanc hotel on the 50,000 sq foot property on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Louis Vuitton Chairman and CEO Pietro Beccari plans larger and grander retail attractions and fashion show events for Louis Vuitton locations around the world.
Today — on Labor Day 2025 in America — the rumor has been confirmed by Bloomberg, who has seen the filings with the city of Los Angeles for Beccari’s big new dream baby.
‘Huge’ Takes Many Forms and LVMH Has Human Assets
Vuitton CEO Pietro Beccari arrived at Louis Vuitton in January 2023, with a key priority of recruiting Pharrell Williams to the world’s biggest luxury brand to replace the beloved, and sorely missed Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton Mens, Virgil Abloh.
AOC was first and early, to the best of our knowledge, in calling for Williams to join LVMH Men.
We were the only media source with the moxie to criticize the team that lost the 2023 special vote for the Cheval Blanc in Beverly Hills. And we proposed a far better team to deal with LA politics, if the Louis Vuitton takeover of the site was true.
Hailey Bieber’s sustainable skincare brand Rhode [IG] is in high gear, with less than 3 weeks to go for its Sephora launch on September 4.
The recently-acquired, sensational-success brand Rhode will be carried by all Sephora freestanding stores in the U.S. and Canada, as well as on LVMH-owned Sephora website.
Bieber has expertly walked a business tightrope with plenty of social media dazzle and celebrity PR grounded in product manufacturing expertise and distribution goals.
Focus, or better yet ‘clarity’ has been Hailey Bieber’s middle name since launching Rhode, and she has not faltered. With the acquisition of Rhode by ELF Beauty for $1 billion, Bieber has moved into an exclusive club of successful new business launches
Models South Korean heritage Hyunji Shin and Spanish heritage model Pau Ramis front the Brunello Cucinelli summer 2025 Transeasonal Campaign.
Brunello Cucinelli’s Commitment to Italy
Always the philosopher, one of the world’s most important humanists commented about his obligations to shareholders and his equally important obligations to Italy, after reporting a revenue increase of 10.2 percent in the first half of 2025 on his July analysts call.
"The fact is that we have an Italian company pay taxes in Italy... this is our struggle, you know, with regard to improving the profits. We will never bring or transfer our company to the Netherlands, to Luxembourg," Cucinelli added.
Cucinelli explained that his motivation for staying in Italy is in large part to support the wider supply chain. "We are serious Italian entrepreneurs who believe in made-in-Italian manufacturing with high-end craftsmanship, high-end exclusivity, high-end quality. We want to work on a local level in Italy."
Flaunt Magazine [IG] Issue 199, ‘Fleeting Twilight’ shares key looks from the Louis Vuitton Men’s Pre-Fall 2025 Collection. Creative Director Pharrell Williams previewed the collection in Miami December 2024, with the upcoming Met Gala dandy aesthetic on his mind.
I just reviewed again Jonathan Anderson’s swoon-worthy debut men’s collection for Christian Dior, and like Pharrell, he also tapped the ‘young aristocrats’ trend. Anderson added skirts for men and nipping his waists with overtly-femme swagger and white bow ties.
Louis Vuitton Men Compared to The Absolutely-Brilliant Jonathan Anderson Dior Mens Debut
Pharrell played his ties straight and long, Anderson likes bows. Both designers did white ties and the Louis Vuitton man does go to the office to afford his wardrobe preferences. He’s a working man. Anderson’s Dior man is a trust fund kid — or maybe the growing number of men — at least in America — living at home with parents.
Dandyism is a design key to writing about both collections — Dior Spring 2026 and Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2025. Yes, Pharrell was off to India with lean and long fluidity for his Spring 2026 collection, which AOC loved.
AOC loves Paris and the south of France. But we’ve been saying for many months now that it’s an Italian moment, and nothing — not even the king of cashmere’s current Italian sweatshop scandal — will dampen AOC’s love affair with la dolce vita.
Fendi’s fall-winter 2025 campaign film begins with a visual dose of sophisticated retro nostalgia, peppered with modern reinvention. In speaking with WWD about the fall-winter 2025 collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi stressed the reality that the fall 2025 collection presents “a contemporary and comprehensive vision of the brand”.
Fendi is also aiming to convey this modern message with ancient roots with the inauguration of a new sprawling flagship on Milan’s Via Montenapoleone.
Anne Is Swept Away
Depending on your age, the soundtrack will completely sweep you away. OMG! Barry White.
If you have lived a privileged life resulting from family heritage — or are a working girl who made good and led a privileged life based on your smarts — and you regularly kissed the ground landing in Italia, you will be swooning.
Personally, Anne is destroyed with this campaign video.
Louis Vuitton Women taps House Ambassadors Emma Stone and Hoyeon Jung for the Fall/Winter 2025 Campaign, lensed by Ethan James Green.
Before Speedy Came Express
Bags and luggage are the visual currency of the Louis Vuitton brand. They also ring the cash register at critical levels to support LV’s position in the LVMH heirarchy. The FW25 Campaign is focused on its latest handbag: the Express, a roomy reprise of the original name of Vuitton’s signature Speedy handbag.
Louis Vuitton’s Chairman and CEO Pietro Beccari delivered press comments detailing the important role ‘The Louis’ marks on the new journey the luxury brand is taking into the DNA of Louis Vuitton itself. Reinforcing key buzzwords, Beccari stressed the importance of Louis Vuitton’s spirit of travel being experienced not only by crossing national borders, “but through ideas, emotions and inspiration.”
Anne drills down on exactly what Beccari’s words mean.
