Exquisite quality has defined Loro Piana’s luxury brand DNAfor six generations, anchored by its commitment to vertically-integrated manufacturing.
The Italian brand’s 2023 Resort [summer] collection is a summary of a brand DNA platform that’s among the most inspiring in the world of luxury fashion.
Linen, in crêpe or in Loro Piana’s exclusive Solaire fabric, is used abundantly for resort, as is silk georgette. Prints reflect ancient, global trade routes in and around the Mediterranean. Clients embrace the reality that a print might appear to be Moroccan-inspired . . . no, no it’s from India . . . no, no it feels more like today’s Marseilles.
Recent discoveries in Egypt suggest that Indian trade routes back and forth were as prolific as the famous Silk Road trade route. The world was not sleeping 10,000 years ago, waiting for the rise of whites-dominated business savvy. The true historical story of global commerce is far more eclectic and interesting.
Massimo Dutti shares its summer getaway collection “Sul Mare” with a focus on surface interest fabrics like raffia and crochet and angular cuts. The sophisticated collection modeled by Nikki McGuire is heavy with a rough elegance vibe through its use of natural fabrics including linen.
Styled by Delphine Danhier, the collection is photographed by Misha Taylor [IG], who captures the watery tie-dye prints and classic stripes.
Focus on Linen
Linen is both linen as we know it [which is better than most fabrics] but also 100% European grown linen. This linen is grown without artificial watering and no GMO seeds and defoliants are used. It is produced in Western Europe and complies with the EUROPEAN FLAX® standard of the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC). Also this item is made in Portugal.
Calling Out Ramie
Massimo Dutti is also using ramie, an eco friendly fabric and the highly sustainable fiber, that is airy and beautiful. Ramie is made from the stalks of flowers and plants and is a chic vegan silk alternative or very lightweight linen which is lighter and airier, while obviously tailoring well.
Actually, I just did a ramie search on MD, and all these items are made with the fiber. It appears that most or all of the Massimo Dutti ramie products are also made in Portugal, which has a better chance of eco-friendly dye processes and positive worker welfare.
Supermodel Kendall Jenner wears Miu Miu favorites styled by Max Pearmain and Miuccia Prada in this fashion story lensed by Alasdair McLellan [IG].
Read W Magazine for all the vintage Miu Miu fashions and also an interview with Eric Wilson titled “Miuccia Prada Talks 30 Years of Miu Miu, Her Greatest Experiment.”
Mrs. Prada is troubled with the idea of presenting post-pandemic fashion as a form of “escapism or entertainment during difficult times”.
“I really don’t like this idea that ‘Fashion is a dream,’ ” Prada says. “First of all, if I have a dream, I want to achieve it, so it’s an objective or a direction. Something that has a strange beauty of who-knows-what-it-is, I really detest.”
In 2002, the movie “Blue Crush” depicted women competing at Hawaii’s Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu. In reality, very few women surfed the seven-mile mecca. Surfer Keala Kennelly was one for-real woman surfer, who joined the “Blue Crush” movie with an understanding that if you can’t see it, you can’t be it.
Actor Kate Bosworth was also in “Blue Crush” played Annemarie Chadwick, a native of Oahu’s North Shore, training to compete in Hawaii’s Pipe Masters, a surfing competition where “you don’t just get worked—you die.”
That descriptor comes from Vogue, who also got clever in writing about Bosworth’s new “Blue Crush” style collab with ROXIE, the women’s surf brand that is credited for designing the first women’s board shorts in 1990.
“Blue Crush” was a movie about the future — 20 years into the future — and that future is now.
An Equity Drive for Women Surfers That Took Half a Century
Surfing has long been associated with hyper-masculinity; now changes are finally underway decades later in gender equity policies within its ranks.
British luxury house Burberry unveiled its Summer 2023 Swimwear Collection channeling the brand’s signature code of adventure.
It was Jacqueline Dillemman - a buyer in Burberry’s Paris store, who had a flash of inspiration in 1967, while preparing a presentation for the British ambassador Sir Patrick Reilley.
Dillemman removed [cut out] the check lining from a coat lining and wrapped it around luggage and an umbrella. Voilà. The Burberry Check was reborn for today’s world.
There’s zero politics that I see in the campaign. But there’s much about the ‘60s and early ‘70s that did embrace a revolutionary optimism among open-minded young people worldwide.
This early concept of the global citizen was not universally shared in America or Britain or in most countries of the world. But the idea took root in the minds of millions of young people, who never dreamed that it would be so difficult to get to the promised land 60+ years later. ~ Anne
The LVMH brands collaboration with the NBA takes another bow this morning as Moët & Chandon taps streetwear designer Don C for a capsule dropping today, May 8, 2023.
Moët & Chandon is the official Champagne of the NBA and the brand has a rich modern history working with the sports francise and the culture that surrounds it.
Chicago’s own Don C [IG] understands that “the fusion of sports and luxury is here now, and it's here to stay." The drop consists of a custom-designed Moët & Chandonchampagne bottle and a hoodie.
Italian luxury brand Gucci unveils its latest fine jewelry 'Link to Love' campaign with a focus on self-expression and individualism but through connection.
The ‘Link to Love’ collection’s signature octagonal shape channels religious symbolism worldwide. Octagrams formed from overlapping squares often emphasize duality: yin and yang, male and female, spiritual and material, while having a major place in global religions from Christianity to Hindualism, including also a significant place in Jewish mysticism.
This symbolism seems particularly relevent to Gucci’s embrace of a modern, androgynous, sleek design in the ‘Link to Love’ campaign. AOC just discovered major ties to the earliest deities — a transition period between goddesses were worshipped exclusively and patriarchy where God is male and women got the boot.
For example, Old Kingdom Egyptians recognized a group of eight deities, four male and four female, with the female bearing feminine forms of the male names: Nu, Nanet, Amun, Amunet, Kuk, Kauket, Huh, and Hauhet.
Kylie Jenner [IG], with 389M IG followers, takes a mermaid-worthy immersion into the world of Jean Paul Gaultier for the brand’s new “FLOWERS” IS OUT campaign.
Many people haven’t recognized Kylie Jenner because of her mermaid hair. Photographer Elizaveta Porodina [IG] is behind the lens. See the collection online. French artist Jean-Vincent Simonet collaborated with the design team on the "liquid" print of flowers fabrics.
At a collection launch event at The Webster in New York on Tuesday night, Jenner wore the Simonet flowers printed on a lingerie-inspired, nude tulle, long sleeves body slip.
Saint Laurent, the renowned French Maison, has recently unveiled its first-ever fine jewelry collection. Look at those ladybug nails!!!
Though jewelry accessories have always been part of the seasonal YSL collections, "Saint Laurent Haute Joaillerie" is the first to source fine metals.
The campaign for Saint Laurent's debut jewelry line artfully juxtaposes the elegance of the pieces with the re-potting of a plant, as seen in the campaign photos by Juergen Teller.
People abuse the word ‘chic’ today, and I rarely use it, but this collection is unadulterated French chic to the max. It’s fabulous!
Okay, AOC friends. Tell me this isn’t kismet!!!!!!
AOC shares exciting news about the ongoing collaboration between Pharrell Williams and adidas — Humanrace Samba Colors by Pharrell, a collection of luxury footwear in a depth of colorways that embody the diversity and energy of Humanrace’s DNA.
Last weekend at Pharrell’s ‘Something in the Water’ Festival in Virginia Beach, music lovers with an Atlantic Ocean view got their first look at five new Humanrace Samba colorways: Yellow, Orange, Pink, Lilac, and Red. A Humanrace green colorway is also available exclusively to friends and family of the brand.
Pharrell elevates the Samba with all-around high-end leather upper and leather shoelaces sourced from ECCO Leather, a world leader in innovative and premium leather.
ECCO Leather’s water-saving tanning technology saves 20 liters of water per hide. The result is environmentally more sustainable production but higher color saturation. Humanrace always uses non-toxic vegetable dyes, and AOC assumes that is the case here. Read the Humanrace sustainability pledges.
Florence Pugh, the talented English actress known for her roles in ‘Midsommar’, ‘Little Women’, and ‘A Good Person’, is the new face of luxury Italian fashion brand Valentino. The 27-year-old actor stars in a new campaign lensed by Steven Meisel called "An Encyclopaedia Of Feelings.”
Pugh showcases a range of emotions while posing with Valentino Garavani Rockstud23 bag, styled by Joe McKenna.
Piccioli chose Pugh as the new Valentino DI.VA (DI.fferent VA.lues) ambassador because of her authenticity, vulnerability, and fearless self-expression both on and off-camera. This collaboration is about sharing values and standing for the same things, rather than just focusing on aesthetics or numbers of social media followers.
Valentino Vintage, an initiative by the luxury fashion house Valentino [IG], has expanded its presence by partnering with vintage stores in seven cities around the world, including London, Milan, Paris, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Seoul, and New York. This innovative program allows customers to exchange their pre-loved Valentino garments for vouchers that can be used to purchase new items from the brand, extending the life cycle of luxury fashion.
Each participating vintage store was carefully selected based on its unique identity and cultural relevance within its respective city. For instance, London's Rellik, which opened in 1999, was chosen for its collection of vintage 1960s garments. The updated program now features a variety of Valentino's famous archival apparel in these partner stores.
Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, BFC 2022 Designer of the Year
Extinction Rebellion France attacked the Fondation Louis Vuitton as a “a cultural and philanthropic and most of all fiscal tool" of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group.
Defending their protest, the organization pointed to the failure of major corporations to take action on climate change, writing:
"That's why we demand that corporations take their responsibilities and act in the fight against global warming, and that the government put in place the Citizen Convention for Climate which proposed among other things the impact of greenhouse gas emissions of companies, reinforcing their obligations in the face of environmental demands and condition their financing to green criteria.”
The organization pointed out that current emission levels of companies listed on the CAC40 index would lead to a 3.5 degree Celsius increase in temperatures by 2100.
The Tom Ford brand recently announced significant changes in its executive leadership. Guillaume Jesel has been appointed as the President and Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of the brand, while Peter Hawkings has been named the Creative Director. These appointments come after the Estée Lauder Companies completed their acquisition of Tom Ford for $2.8 billion.
Guillaume Jesel brings nearly a decade of successful brand leadership experience from his time at Tom Ford Beauty. Under his tenure, the brand spearheaded iconic innovation and strategically expanded its global reach, firmly establishing Tom Ford Beauty as a powerhouse in luxury beauty.
Peter Hawkings, on the other hand, has been working alongside Tom Ford for nearly twenty-five years. He began his career at Gucci in 1998 under Ford's guidance before joining the Tom Ford brand in 2006. As the new Creative Director, Hawkings will be responsible for upholding the brand's vision and ensuring consistency of creative direction across all fashion categories.
Models Malika El Maslouhi and Tess McMillan go ‘Over the Border’ in a total immersion of floral fashion and jewelry, styled by Julia Brenard. Felicity Ingram [IG] captures the biophilia immersion for British Vogue May 2023.
Anthuriums Are Everywhere in Fashion
The influence of anthuriums has been dominated by the LOEWE Women’s 2023 Spring Collection. The flower is so distinctive visually that it almost serves as a logo.
Supermodel Bella Hadid joins photographer Carlijn Jacobs [IG] and Vogue Italia in a May 2013 cover story driven by AI. Imruh Asha styled Bella and was part of the team working with AI artist Chad Nelson. / Hair by Mustafa Yanaz; makeup by Sam Visser
The team worked on the DALL-E artificial program. Carlijn Jacobs describes a bit of the process:
After coming up with a rough concept for each photo, we shot Bella in the studio, then tried to generate background images with the AI program. I found myself having to translate my vision to the camera into a few key words, called "prompts": a far from easy undertaking for a photographer used to working with images rather than words. At first I tried to give random inputs, but I soon realized that the precision of my instructions was crucial if I was to get anywhere near the idea I had in mind.
On the rarest of occasions, AOC wakes up to a significant new reality in fashion world, a radical process that turns everything upside down. Going foward, we will share the news by playing probably the most important marketing video ever to date ‘The Crazy Ones’.
Today, April 24, 2023 Anne of Carversville shares ‘The Crazy Ones’ worthy: COACHTOPIA.
A defining component of Coachtopia, Joon Silverstein, SVP, global marketing, creative and sustainability explained to Vogue Business, is that it is built as a “community” and has invited a “beta community” of Gen Z environmentally-conscious, individuals to collaborate and give feedback on Coachtopia concepts and products.
Emerging artists will be key players in future product drops and design collaborations.
Coach flipped its traditional production process on its head. Rather than a vision and a sketch, designers started with scraps on a cutting room floor. The handbags are made almost entirely from materials that were destined for landfill, with excess leather fragments arranged into vibrant floral patterns and zipper tracks repurposed into embellishments. The waste-forward products are a bid to transform the supply chain and move toward a circular industry, Coach says to all press inquiries.
Rising [star] model Cherokee Jack appears in Polo Ralph Lauren ads, lensed by Sharif Hamza [IG]. The country clothes include denim, workshirts and timeless outerwear — “made to be worn and made to last.”
Some or all of the collection are produced in partnership with The New Denim Project an innovative textile group based in Guatemala.
Finely crafted from upcycled materials, this denim collection is designed to reduce the use of virgin cotton by incorporating cloth scraps into new yarns and fabrics.
Summer wouldn’t be whispering future visions of sun and fun in our ear without LOEWE’s Creative Director Jonathan Anderson annual pilgrimage to nirvana with its Paula’s Ibiza 2023 Collection. The 2023 cast is particularly interesting with its strong connections to Ibiza’s music heritage.
American supermodel, arch feminist, author and activist Emily Ratajkowsteps into the light for the second time today on AOC [see Marc Jacobs] for the Ibiza spirit shoot styled by Benjamin Bruno. Gray Sorrenti [IG] is again behind the lens making the annual pilgrimage.
It was an American Stuart Rudnick, born and raised in Philadelphia, United States, who transitioned from being a Special Attorney with the United States Department of Justice to selling herbs on the streets of Ibiza, who became the right arm of Paula’s founder Armin Heinemann, a German architect by trade.
Here’s an engaging and inspiring interview with Heinemannon apartamento, and Paula Ibiza images from an out-of-publication book. LOEWE — people would pay $250 for this book! Republish it for a global cause! The world needs it.
In a new Spring 2023 campaign, Gucci celebrates the enduring style of its iconic Bamboo 1947 handbag. Supermodel Liu Wen is centerstage in images and video lensed by David Sims, with creative direction from Ezra Petronio & Lana Petrusevych./ Hair by Paul Hanlon; makeup by Thomas De Kluyver
The Gucci Bamboo 1947 handbag, originally known by its product number 0633, has a rich history that dates back to post-war Italy. In 1947, Europe was still recovering from the aftermath of World War II, and resources were scarce. Leather, a primary material used in fashion at the time, was in short supply, forcing designers to find alternative materials for their creations.