Models Malika El Maslouhi and Tess McMillan go ‘Over the Border’ in a total immersion of floral fashion and jewelry, styled by Julia Brenard. Felicity Ingram [IG] captures the biophilia immersion for British Vogue May 2023./ Hair by Anna Cofone; makeup by Janeen Witherspoon

Enduring Jewelry Motifs: Flowers, Snakes and Tassels

As jewelry expert Frank Everett, sales director of Sotheby’s luxury division always the press: "Florals are the most enduring motif in jewelry . . . I always say, there are three motifs that have been around since the history of jewelry: flowers, snakes, and tassels.”

In 2019, a dazzling new selling exhibition spotlighting how flowers have been a constant source of inspiration to jewelers throughout the ages was curated by Frank Everett, in partnership with jewelry historian Carol Woolton. The show comprised 75 pieces of jewelry that interspersed vintage floral designs from Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and David Webb in the company of contemporary talents as Solange Azagury-Partridge, Eliane Fattal, Fernando Jorge, Sabba, Jessica McCormack, and Irene Neuwirth.

Influence of India’s ‘Shringar’ Traditions on Jewelry Design

The history of luxury floral jewelry can be traced back to ancient Indian traditions and the concept of ‘Shringar’, the adornment and beautification of the body, particularly for women. This concept is closely associated with the celebration of love, beauty, and the divine feminine form. ‘Shringar’ is often depicted through various art forms, such as paintings, dance, and poetry, where it represents romantic love and attraction.

The concept of the divine feminine in India is deeply rooted in Hinduism and has been an integral part of Indian culture for centuries. It is a recognition and worship of God as feminine, with Hinduism being the only major religion that has always worshipped God in female form and continues to do so today. The divine feminine energy, known as Shakti, represents the dynamic forces that move through the universe and is personified in various goddesses.

Popular Flowers In Jewelry Design

Floral patterns gained popularity in the West during the 19th century when flower prints from China and Japan began to influence Western fashion. Manufacturers in the West soon started replicating these floral fabrics, making them more accessible to the public.

Roses, being the most popular flower in the world, dominate not only their season but also the realm of jewelry design. They symbolize various stages of love and are often featured in pieces given as romantic gifts.

Lilies, particularly the Lily of the Valley, symbolize a return to happiness and are often used in charms and pendants.

Orchids, including exotic varieties like Spider Orchids, are also popular in jewelry design due to their unique shapes and fragrances.

Violets, both blue and purple, hold special meanings in jewelry design. Blue violets symbolize faithfulness, while purple violets represent watchfulness. These flowers are often used in pieces that convey deep emotions and connections between people.

Other popular flowers in jewelry design include sunflowers, which symbolize adoration, loyalty, and longevity, and forget-me-nots, which represent remembrance and the bonds that tie us together.

Anthuriums Are Everywhere in Fashion

The influence of anthuriums has been dominated by the LOEWE Women’s 2023 Spring Collection. The flower is so distinctive visually that it almost serves as a logo.

The popularity of Anthurium flowers in jewelry design can be attributed to their open, heart-shaped form and long-lasting nature, making them an ideal choice for hostess or hospitality gifts.

Clearly, anthuriums have a well-established reputation as being suitable for hotel lobbies.

Any attempt to address anthuriums very sexy visual appearance causes raised eyebrows and an occasional wink.

To her credit, American artist Judith Moore is not intimidated by anthuriums, and Saatchi Art sells her oil painting for $6,000.

An anthurium is a floral yin-yang symbol with an inherent lewdness. I’ve found it both shocking and amusing that 90% of the online articles are about anthuriums as a hospitality flower. But as Nylon Magazine noted in March, 2018, “it would take the blindest of eyes not to see the carnal nature on this bloom. Yet it is the blatant element of the anthurium that makes it so seductive right now. It feels easy. It feels comprehensible. It makes sense in its obvious carnality. “

The New York Times [Nov. 2017] has the last word on anthuriums as a sexy flower in jewelry, as a breastplate or even in a bridal bouquet. New York florist Brittany Asch of Brrch was very instrumental in promoting anthuriums on the East Coast and is featured heavily in the story An ‘It’ Flower for a Feminist Moment.

Bonnie Wertheim advises us not to be surprised if your houseguests are alarmed by an anthurium’s “confrontational style”.

“I love that it can possibly make people a little bit uncomfortable,” Ms. Asch said. “As a society we’re really coming into our sexual identities, and I think facing these flowers that mimic our own physical makeup either makes people really close up or totally feel liberated.”