LVMH Orchestrates 3 Next Act Chairs for Bertrand, Arnault, Angeloglou March 2025
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La Beauté Louis Vuitton Launches in Fall 2025, Dame Pat McGrath Creative Director
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Louis Vuitton is launching La Beauté Louis Vuitton with Dame Pat McGrath
The makeup collection will initially launch with 55 lipsticks, 10 lip balms and eight eye palettes. "Working backstage for over 20 years at Louis Vuitton fashion shows, I am thrilled to now play such a key role in the launch of La Beauté Louis Vuitton, which is the result of extraordinary craftmanship, creativity and innovation," says McGrath.
McGrath will continue to oversee her own make-up brand, Pat McGrath Labs, which she launched in 2015 with great success. The LVMH structure for La Beauté Louis Vuitton mirrors the one in place with Guerlain’s Violette Serrat.
Read MoreHumanism 101: RIMOWA x GEWA Trumpet Case Collaboration 2025 Includes MÚSICAS Film
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RIMOWA x GEWA Trumpet Case Collab
RIMOWA delivers again in this cooly-beautiful collaboration with historic German brand GEWA — first founded in 1925 in Adorf, and today a leading designer and manufacturer of world-class musical instruments.
The limited-edition piece represents more than just functional luxury. The result is a masterfully-crafted case that protects not only the instruments it carries, but also the artistry of its musicians.
Humanist Brand Values
AOC has long complimented RIMOWA for its embrace of cultural creatives values. We’re changing our vocab going forward, to speak more simply.
Today, we compliment RIMOWA as a brand with humanist values. AOC speaks separately to the Oaxaca women horn players film timed with this collab.
Read MoreTory Burch SS 2025 Campaign Claims the Power of Destiny and the Sporting Life
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Tory Burch SS 2025 Campaign Claims the Power of Destiny and the Sporting Life
American brand Tory Burch releases her Spring Summer 2025 campaign, a collection of images infused with an elegant athleticism starring Ida Heiner, Irina Shayk and Mona Tougaard. Photographer Jamie Hawkesworth [IG] captures the trio in Paris posing in a track and field gymnastics facility.
Ida Heiner wears the new Tory Burch Destiny trainer, as further evidence of the growing influence of sport for the brand.
Tory Burch Destiny Trainer
Described as a “retro running sneaker inspired by the spirit of a good challenge”, Tory Burch’s Destiny Trainer is well-named in the spirit of the 2024 Paris Olympics.
Led by Louis Vuitton — a key sponsor of the summer games — the symbolism of the Olympics, and the extraordinary journeys that athletes take to reach them, closely align with the values at the heart of the French luxury fashion house, its chairman Bernard Arnault and CEO Pietro Beccari.
Reality is that LVMH, including Louis Vuitton, and Tory Burch are sort of ‘kissing cousins’.
Read MoreExactly Why is Gucci Poised for a Rebound? Industry Minds Are Wondering
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Exactly Why is Gucci Poised for a Rebound? Industry Minds Are Wondering
Kering’s Gucci sales for the three months ending Dec. 31 decreased 24%. Of course Kering chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault assures financial industry professionals that Gucci is poised for a rebound.
AOC has a one-word response: Why?
Bernstein’s global luxury goods analyst Luca Solca believes he knows how to fix the problem, declaring recently that Gucci:
“needs a new, heavyweight creative director, and it needs it now. The task is to add an original and compelling fashion twist on the cleansed Gucci image Sabato De Sarno has contributed to create: more elegant, more qualitative, but dull.
A heavyweight designer [say Hedi Slimane — the most likely candidate in our view — or John Galliano or Maria Grazia Chiuri, for example] could restart the buzz around the brand, and help it to regain center stage.”
Read MoreL'Oreal Group Invests in Jacquemus Retail Expansion and Future Beauty Business
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L'Oreal Group Invests in Jacquemus Retail Expansion and Future Beauty Business
In spring 2024, the growing cult brand Jacquemus opened stores in Dubai, Capri, and Saint-Tropez, followed by New York and London last fall.
Jacquemus annual revenue estimates had climbed to $250 million, largely self-funded from the brand’s business operations.
Sharing the Jacquemus Holiday 2024 campaign, AOC reported that the brand had maxed out its growth opportunities until it obtained a minority investor.
On January 28, Jacquemus announced that it has tapped Celine North America president Sarah Benady as its next chief executive officer. There was no doubt that an announcement was coming soon in this perfectly-orchestrated business PR blitz based on business fundamentals and not marketing word salads.
The announcement came today, February 7, that L’Oréal Group has made a minority investment in Jacquemus to fund the house’s ongoing retail growth and expansion into the beauty sector.
Read MoreGucci Is Bleeding to Death & Sabato de Sarno Is Not the Doctor She Needed
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Gucci Is Bleeding to Death & Sabato de Sarno Is Not the Doctor She Needed
Gucci creative director Sabato de Sarno is leaving Gucci after two years. Gucci’s Feb. 25 runway show will be designed by its design studio, the brand said Thursday, Feb.6.
Gucci’s Problems Are Bigger than de Sarno’s Tepid Designs
AOC does not believe that Gucci’s revenue plunge of 26% in the third quarter of 2024, a scary reflection of the brand’s current status, was solely the result of de Sarno’s tepid approach to design.
We note that his ‘marching orders’ came from Kering head and Gucci’s billionaire owner François-Henri Pinault.
You cannot cut the heart out of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci success and expect those same customers to now buy a quiet Gucci, with marketing campaigns that prompted AOC to write that the models look like they’re making a case for lobotomies for women.
Read MoreLouis Vuitton Taps Skateboarder Tyshawn Jones As Friend of the House
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Louis Vuitton Taps Skateboarder Tyshawn Jones As Friend of the House
Luxury house Louis Vuitton doesn’t need to use three banned in America initials i-e-d when reinforcing the 21st century DNA of the world’s largest luxury brand.
There’s no luxury house that AOC watches more closely than Louis Vuitton in understanding their ‘take’ on where we’re heading culturally. I should clarify that it’s Louis Vuitton Men — more than women’s — that clarifies the brand’s vision in the public sphere.
AOC didn’t understand just how tight former Christian Dior Men’s creative director Kim Jones was with Virgil Abloh, when Jones was at the helm of Louis Vuitton Men’s from 2011-2018 and passed the baton to Abloh as his mentor.
With Pharrell Williams succeeding Abloh [RIP] — we’re looking at a continuous cultural vision for LV that’s about 15 years old across three creative directors who formed their own modern-day rat pack.
Read MoreHow Desert Surfing Captured AOC’s View of Zimmermann’s Spring 2025 Campaign
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How Desert Surfing Captured AOC’s View of Zimmermann’s Spring 2025 Campaign
It makes sense now that AOC has struggled to discuss the gorgeous Zimmermann 2025 Ad Campaign, featuring model Abeny Nhial as inspired by the ‘70s cult surfing film ‘Morning of the Earth’. Not until Anne queried ‘desert surfing’ was AOC in sync with Benny Horne’s exquisite Zimmermann campaign images shot in Morocco.
Conceptually, desert dunes have long captured the human imagination with their striking landscapes and haunting beauty. In the Arab world, these natural formations hold significant physical and cultural importance.
Keep in mind that these magnificent images of Abeny Nhial, wearing Zimmermann’s Illuminate Macramé Gown, capture the very contradictions expressed in the 21st century reality of desert surfing.
Properly-lined for a more modest audience than Hollywood, the Illuminate’s DNA is in perfect sync with new fashion waves being created in the ‘foreign lands’ of Zimmermann’s most successful store.
Read MoreRalph Lauren Vintage Collection in Family Style 004 Winter 2024/25 by Bob Jugger
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Ralph Lauren Vintage Collection in Family Style 004 Winter 2024/2025 by Bob Jugger
Family Style magazine’s approach to content is the cultivation of a quarterly dinner party involving voices and creative personalities in food, fashion and culture.
Designer Ralph Lauren has long been at the center of this still escalating trend of branded dinner parties. Polo Bar, Ralph Lauren’s first New York City restaurant, opened a few steps east of his company’s flagship store at Fifth Avenue and 55th Street a decade ago.
In late December 2024, AOC noted that Moncler’s Italian billionaire CEO Remo Ruffini expressed great admiration for all that Ralph Lauren has achieved with graciousness and style. Ruffini called out Ralph's Coffee, the café attached to the flagship on the corner of Old Bond Street and Burlington Gardens.
Polo Ralph Lauren’s FW 2024 Campaign celebrated ‘Ralph’s New York’ in an emotional and heartfelt way. The campaign featured items from the growing Ralph Lauren Vintage Collection.
Today, these Ralph Lauren Vintage Collection pieces have made their way to Family Style Magazine 004 Winter 2024/2025.
New York-born stylist and storyteller Edward Bowleg III collaborates with photographer Bob Jugger [IG] in ‘Always and Forever’, presenting the Ralph Lauren Vintage Collection
Read MoreKim Jones and Virgil Abloh: As Jones Exits Dior Men, We Discover Him as Mentor to Abloh
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As Jones Exits Dior Men, We Discover Him as Mentor to Abloh
The clues were few that British designer Kim Jones was about to leave Christian Dior Mens, especially after delivering one of the most ‘stupendous’ shows of his career in his Fall 2025 presentation in Paris last on Friday last week.
Praise for Jones has been lavish from his peers, with widespread consensus that Kim Jones’ seven-years tenure at Dior Mens “accelerated the convergence of men’s fashion, art, and celebrity to warp speed.”
Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh
In writing this post, AOC was not aware of the very close relationship of Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. We share a major taste of the duo together.
The future for Kim Jones will include his work with Charleston Trust, where the designer became a vice president in fall 2024.
Read MoreRianne Van Rompaey Stars in Chloé SS 2025 Campaign Lensed by David Sims
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Rianne Van Rompaey Stars in Chloé SS 2025 Campaign Lensed by David Sims
Dutch sensual beauty and top model Rianne Van Rompaey delivers spectacular images for the Chloé [IG] SS 2025 campaign. Elodie David styles Rianne in sublime images by David Sims [IG].
The campaign is privileged escapism at its best. In this complicated time in our shared global history, it may surprise you to read AOC say “we’re here for it.” The campaign images are a welcome quickie getaway that absolutely recharges our minds and bodies.
Our resilience needs nourishment, no matter how dedicated we are to the fight for democratic, humanist values. This campaign delivers.
Read MoreBurberry Artists Strike a Perfect Pitch As Mothership Finds Momentum
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Burberry Artists Strike a Perfect Pitch As Mothership Finds Momentum
Burberry [IG] is celebrating Valentine’s Day 2025 with a series of paintings by Brooklyn-based artist Jack Kenna [IG]. The modern-perspective artist creates unconventional pairings of familiar objects in a bold, abstract style.
Kenna’s commissioned Burberry artwork features the Rocking Horse bag, an essential Burberry gift inspired by the house’s equestrian heritage and two very different perspectives on the Burberry scarf. From the Burberry website, add yet another painting of the Mini Snip Chain bag.
In Burberry’s Reinvention: Hope Springs Eternal
Burberry posted positive news in the third quarter ending Dec. 28, with a comparable store drop of 4%, compared with a business analysts forecast of 12%.
New Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman is credited with stemming the double-digit sales declines that defined the first half of 2024. As Schulman noted in a call with analysts, the American market, led by Burberry’s refurbished New York store resulted in a 4% increase Y2Y in America for the 3rd quarter.
Read MoreLouis Vuitton Spring 2025 Campaign with Blackpink and Ronan Saoirse by Meisel
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Louis Vuitton Spring 2025 Campaign with Blackpink and Ronan Saoirse by Meisel
As much as AOC loves Louis Vuitton [IG], their ad campaigns can be ho-hum. The Spring 2025 campaign, shot by Steven Meisel [IG] with Louis Vuitton ambassadors Blackpink’s Lisa and actor Ronan Saoirse, is indeed worthy of fashion’s largest, omnipotent luxury brand.
Few luxury houses are associated with an illustrious name like The Fondation Louis Vuitton, the prominent art museum and cultural center located in Paris in the Bois de Boulogne.
Placing two gifted women artists like Lisa and Ronan, who are also Nicolas Ghesquière muses, in the presence of French conceptual artist Laurent Grasso’s artwork for a campaign shot by one of the world’s most celebrated fashion photographers Steven Meisel is a truly definitive statement for the Louis Vuitton Spring 2025 campaign.
Read MoreGucci Spring 2025 Campaign with Yara Shahidi and George MacKay by Xavier Dolan
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Gucci Spring 2025 Campaign with Yara Shahidi and George MacKay by Xavier Dolan
The campaign pairs actors Yara Shahidi and George MacKay exploring the new collection as a tender ode to humanity. The video and images by Canadian filmmaker and actor Xavier Dolan [IG], capture the filtered light of possibility that greets a new day, or the preciousness of afternoon sun settling almost mystically over a room.
In its place is a slow-living interlude of reflections between two people emerges, humans so connected that words are not required. And if we are alone in the moment, we realize that we are not . . . alone. There is energy all around us, our plants are flowering and we can curl up on the daybed or sofa to drift in this moment of lightness.
Read MoreBella Hadid Walks Out of an '80s Enjoli Commercial Straight into Miss Sixty
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Bella Hadid Walks Out of an '80s Enjoli Commercial Straight into Miss Sixty
Bella Hadid looks like Miss Texas in the new Miss Sixty [IG] commercial lensed by Carlijn Jacobs [IG] and styled by Ib Kamara.
Bella Hadid: Miss Texas
Was it on anyone’s bingo card that Bella Hadid would be named the National Cutting Horse Association's (NCHA) 2024 Limited Age Event (LAE) Rookie of the Year . . . after "entering the cutting community a little over a year ago."
Somehow Bella Hadid has managed to create a whole new life in Texas with her love Adan Banuelos.
I’ve read stories about Bella sleeping in the van, getting up at 5am and making breakfast — not for the Miss Sixty crew — but for her beloved cowboys. I can just see her — with the 2 hr. time difference — flipping pancakes with one hand as the sun rises, while on the phone with New York, dealing with the crisis of Orabella sold-out products all over America.
I swear that woman walked into the Miss Sixty photoshoot, straight out of an old-school Enjoli commercial. And I just love it. ~ Anne
Read MoreDior Beauty 'Visionary' Willow Smith on 21st Century Lip Glow and 'Big Feelings'
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Dior Beauty 'Visionary' Willow Smith on 21st Century Lip Glow and 'Big Feelings'
Dior Beauty [IG] ambassador Willow Smith [IG] joins the January 2025 campaign of cult-favorite Dior Addict Lip Glow. The new campaign is shot by Dan Beleiu [IG] and filmed by Valentin Herfray.
When Dior Beauty named Willow as an ambassador in March 2024, they described her as:
“one of the most visionary and daring young women of her generation”.
Willow describes herself as “the child who sings the ancient song”. Her latest sound is ‘Big Feelings’ from her May 2024 album ‘Empathogen’.
“It doesn’t sound as clean as a regular piano,” Smith notes about their use of a 1910 piano for ‘Big Feelings. “The wood sound adds to the snarly nature of the song—it’s like we’re going inside the mind, where everything is textured.”
Read MoreZara's China Drop Headed for Successful Weekly 5 Hr Show on Douyin
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Zara's China Drop Headed for Very Successful Weekly 5 Hr Show on Douyin
As Zara engages in a ferocious battle with low-price competitors Shein and Temu and is delivering heroic results, it wasn’t enough for the money guys on Wall Street. After a tiny miss against the projections of analysts, Zara lost 5% of its value in hours in early December. And it could have worse, with 5% a recovery number against an earlier 7-7.8% selloff.
Jeffries analysts told WSJ that the results were impressive and the miss was fractional, but investors are demanding results. Seriously! Meanwhile Shein is taking a beating these days and it could again delay their IPO [initial public offering].
Zara’s Footprint in China
As to Zara in China, the company has downsized from 570 stores in 2019 to just 192 as of Jan. 31, 2024. Zara argues that the post-pandemic sales channels have changed in significant ways — largely driven by technology and China’s passion for live shopping shows.
Notably, Zara’s five-hour long, weekly live-broadcasts on Douyin, TikTok's Chinese sister site, have helped boost Zara's sales since they launched in November, according to retail analytics firm EDITED.
"Zara's livestream approach built significant brand awareness in China," EDITED analyst Krista Corrigan advises.
Zara sold out of most sizes in 50% more products in China in the first three months of this year than in the same period of 2023, according to EDITED. Based on these statistics, Zara was correct in shrinking its store footprint to move in more tech-friendly directions, driven by young Zara shoppers.
Read MoreHumanist Industry Leader Moncler Tops Dow Jones Luxury Sustainability Index
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Humanist Industry Leader Moncler Tops Dow Jones Luxury Sustainability Index
For the sixth consecutive year in a row, Moncler Group topped the Dow Jones Sustainability Indices for World and Europe in the "textile, apparel & luxury goods" sector. On the consolidated list of 500 most sustainable businesses across all sectors, Moncler was #3.
Moncler’s top guy Remo Ruffini embraces many historical humanist values besides responsibility to the environment. What we’ve learned about humanism from Brunello Cucinelli surely applies to Ruffini.
What is so impactful is his generous praise of other business leaders, including Bernard Arnault and Ralph Lauren. Business relationships built on trust is a key word in AOC’s analysis. Anne is back in her AI for scholars this moment, looking for alignment between humanism and freemasonry across Europe.
Read MoreA Breathtaking Dior Holiday 2024 Underwater World of Extreme Beauty & Design
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