The story of Armani Beauty’s ‘My Way’ journey to market is deeply rooted in the sustainability values of the younger generation, many of their boomer grandparents and conscientious consumers of every age.
Photographer Dario Catellani [IG] photographs Sydney Sweeney in the 2023 campaign. The Italian visionary is known for his deep attachment to nature — beautifully expressed in the Etro FW 2020/21 ‘We Are All One’ Campaign.
Reading more information about Armani Beauty on the L’Oreal website — L’Oreal holds the beauty license — claims and certifications about sustainability are monitored and validated by the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) developed in 2013 to measure social and environmental impacts.
Based on 14 key sustainability criteria, it covers the entire process from production to the end of the life cycle, including the purchase of raw materials and the product’s use by the consumer.
For Holiday 2022.23 ‘Les Extraits Murano Masterpiece’ advances this transformation of fragrance into art with the visionary expertise of Glass Master Simone Cenedese.
This entire fragrance project is so intellectual, that we must backtrack to it origins in order to full appreciate it newest fragrance art offering.
In his own words, Belletrud explains the origins of ‘Les Extraits’ collection:
I wanted to venture where no one goes anymore. To reinvent the notion of an Extrait in a contemporary way. To bring it light, expand matter, and lighten things up. I wanted to deconstruct the very architecture of perfume
German model Esther Heesch greets 2023 in a Gucci fashion story covering the January issue of Harper’s Bazaar Greece. The ‘Gucci Cosmogonie’ Cruise 2023 Collection took a turn in the direction of sophisticated elegance with a strong hit of verve.
Simultaneously, Gucci has opened its first Valigeria Luggage store in Paris to advance its footprint in the luxury travel sector.
Harper’s Greece calls the expansion of the ‘Gucci Valigeria’ DNA is the pursuit for an “endless journey based on knowledge, experience, freedom and style”. AOC says that the ‘endless journey’ referenced by Harper’s Greece must include having an inquiring mind.
Being truly inquisitive about the heritage and true stories of other cultures is mandatory for luxury houses pursuing this business path. Our own knowledge as western liberals is deeply flawed and filled — not only with prejudice — but also ignorance about other great, ancient cultures.
With the Gregorian calendar’s New Year’s Day upon us in hours, and the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rabbit ringing in the Lunar New Year on January 22, 2023, Gucci releases a beautiful and without controversy campaign that celebrates two global cultures and also Easter 2023, coming on April 9.
Thank you to perhaps the most soulful creative in fashion — Alessandro Michele, formerly of Gucci. I am certainly one of the people who only recently expressed my understanding of your vision and perspective.
The Banana Republic Holiday 2022 Campaign is terrific, as are the images by Richard Phibbs [IG]. I see the Polo vibe here, but it feels like sound ground Banana is standing on.
Note that as recently as August 2022, Fast Companywas asking if Banana Republic will ultimately be forced to change its name. This question comes within a larger America’s public school’s movement whereby students, parents and some civic leaders argue they shouldn’t have to go to a school named after presidents George Washington and Thomas Jefferson.
AOC does not support the eradication of all references to America’s past, because our past is very complicated. Our role is to move forward.
The cast of the Banana Republic campaign includes Cherokee Jack, Chinchin Hsu, Louise de Chevigny, Nya Gatbel and Ryan Porter and the campaign was shot in Iceland.
Many in the cast have worked on other Banana Republic campaigns this year.
Casa Degli Atellani has been purchased by Bernard Arnault the chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
Built around 1490, the landmark was donated by Ludovico “Il Moro” Duke of Milan to Leonardo Da Vinci in 1498. The legendary artist was in Milan working on his masterpiece ‘The Last Supper’.
The 15th century townhouse hides a verdant courtyard that has been restored to its centuries-old status as home to Da Vinci’s vineyard. Casa Degli Atellani is presently the “only existing wine-producing estate in the center of a metropolis”.
Vogue Netherlands gets the jump on fashion stories centered on the Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama collaboration, a sequel to the 2012 first project between the two global juggernauts.
Critically-acclaimed artist Yayoi Kusama has been breaking new ground for more than six decades and is now 93 years old. Known for her use of dots in multiple artistic media, do not think for one minute that Kusama’s art is created as a fashion statement.
Our earth is only one polka dot among a million stars in the cosmos. Polka dots are a way to infinity. –Yayoi Kusama
Drop Dates
The initial drop will launch on New Year’s Day, January 1 exclusively in China and Japan, followed by the rest of the world on the 6th.
The second drop of the Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama 2023 collab will only be available in Louis Vuitton stores from March 31, 2023.
Kanye West, legally known as Ye, seems to have gone underground, although TMZ reported a single Kanye citing in LA in December. A former business manager for the rapper Thomas St. John has filed a $4.5 million lawsuit against West but is unable to serve him with papers. St. John has requested an extension from the court.
Yeezy Rent Eviction Looming
Reports are that West’s Yeezy offices in California are on the verge of eviction after missing both November and December’s rent payments of $31,477.40 per month.
Gucci has opened its first permanent boutique dedicated to its Gucci Valigeria luggage and travel collection. Located in Paris at 229 Rue Saint-Honoré, the 2,900-square-foot-location was previously dedicated to Off-White.
“Gucci Valigeria is a powerful reminder of our Florentine roots and our timeless craft,” said Marco Bizzarri, the president and CEO of Gucci, calling the Paris store collection a “symbol of [the Gucci] legacy, reinterpreted through the ages for the travelers and modern-day explorers of every era.”
Adidas Is ‘Re-Evaluating’ its partnership with Balenciaga, “pausing” all co-created product launches “until further notice.”
The news came quietly, with customers supplying Sneaker Freaker with copies of emails they’ve received from adidas regarding the pre-order of Balenciaga/adidas Stan Smith trainers.
In a bit of irony, Balenciaga tells customers a different story, that the “trainers will be delayed in shipment” and that “We will notify you again once the item is shipped.”
In case you thought this might be a coordinated message between the two brands to the same customers, it obviously was not.
Fashion world got a major wakeup this morning with a preview of the January 2023 Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama campaign.
Yayoi Kusama, Age 93, Rolls Again with Louis Vuitton
LV makes a big move putting Gisele Bundchen front and center in a second, historical collaboration with revered Japanese creative Yayoi Kusama, one of the world’s pre-eminent artists at age 93.
“One of the aspects of her [Yayoi Kusama’s] work is happiness, and we thought it would be really refreshing after the pandemic to have the worlds of Vuitton and the world of Kusama meet again,” Arnault explained. The successful first collaboration between the two global giants happened in 2012.
Spanish model Olivia Martin poses in Dior Beauty shots for the house’s core Miss Dior Fragrance.Lilly Marthe Ebener styles Martin in images by key Dior photographer Brigitte Niedermair.
Dior writes: “At Dior, we are dedicated to preserve biodiversity. For our Maison, this mission particularly resonates through our never-ending love of flowers. They are not only the beating heart of our creative vision, they are also the origin, present and future of beauty. In the context of COP 15, we are reminded ambitious actions are essential to preserve flowers from extinction.”
By 2030, 100% of Dior gardens and partner gardens will be operated in organic or regenerative agriculture. Additionally, Dior Beauty is committed to reducing their carbon emissions by 46% by 2030 in line with the Paris Agreement to limit global warming to +1.5°C.
Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel, spoke openly with Vogue Business that now more than ever business cannot be conducted as it was in a prepandemic world.
AOC adds a pre-George Floyd murder-world as well, and Pavlovsky spoke candidly about Senegal’s reality as a former French colony.
Lying three miles west of Dakar, Gorée Island was the largest slave-trading center on the African coast. “We cannot go to other parts of the world just for 20 minutes. It is not enough. We have to have this dialogue,” the Chanel executive acknowledged.
Supermodel Elsa Hosk looks like she walked out of a 1950s movie, filmed in the south of France. Elsa is wearing tailored must-haves from her new Helsa Collection — created in the mood of Katharine Hepburn and lensed here by Yulia Gorbachenko [IG]
Writing about the debut of Helsa last August, I said: “Hosk is keeping this launch like a quiet ebb. The Scandi beauty has always stressed the importance of sustainability and it would be shocking if she doesn’t create sustainable products.”
Many of the Helsa pieces are made with Recover, a recycled, heavy-duty cotton. Bravo. I love Elsa Hosk with my whole heart, but sustainability is not a strong message in Helsa so far.
Candice Swanepoel and her sustainable swimwear brand Tropic of C [IG] celebrate the brand’s classic styles with very modern cutouts, lensed by Eduardo Bravin [IG] .
Candice was an early user of econyl, a regenerated nylon product introduced in 2011 by Aquafil.
Econyl is made entirely from ocean and landfill waste, such as industrial plastic, fabric scraps from clothing manufacturing companies, old carpets and "ghost nets".
AOC believes that beautiful bodies live on a sustainable planet. We’ve always applauded Candice Swanepoel for building a brand from day 1, with sustainability beating beautifully in its heart.
Oliver Hadlee Pearch [IG] captures models Anyiel Majok, Felice Nova Noordhoff, and Malika Louback in the Emilio Pucci Holiday 2022/23 campaign ‘La Famiglia.
Imruh Asha styles a campaign the hugs Camille Miceli’s clear vision that “for me Pucci evokes a family of people spending time together, to enjoy life, parties, and well-being.”
Miceli wants the global enthusiasts, travel-loving, multi-generations Pucci ‘famiglia’ to embrace high-octane, dopamine-dressing as a form of spreading joyful optimism, self-confidence without a tinge of aristocracy [unlike Chanel] and a lust for life that reflects her own lifestyle.
Janine Benyus and the Biomimicry movement are gaining enormous respect in the world of product innovation and design. The biometric path is simple and described in four steps: quieting human cleverness; listening to life’s genius; echoing what we learn; and giving thanks.
Partnering with Nature is an eyebrow-raising metaphor for super-rational human minds coming to grips with understanding that human brilliance in innovation and scientific discovery may also kill planet Earth.
Men [and fewer women] should be partnering with Nature, not dominating her.
Chanel show in Dakar now embedded. Chanel ambassador Pharrell Williams was on the ground in Dakar, spreading his ‘Humanrace’ message.
Fresh off his runway walk in the Dior Menswear show at Pyramid Giza, Egypt, Malick Bodian — cover model for this original How To Spend It November 2022 presentation was PROUDLY in Dakar, Senegal to take part in his home country festivities. Bodi took many images for fashion media.
Senegalese musician NIX shared his thoughts on Chanel coming to Dakar: “We have a culture that is very open to the world, we have been influenced by many things, which I see as a richness, and this generates an overflowing creativity today.”
AOC had not viewed the 2023 Gucci Cruise Collection Cosmogonie video. Transported emotionally and psychologically by the recent Dior Cruise 2023 show, I am even more impacted by the 2023 Gucci Cruise presentation.
Michele was inspired by the work of Walter Benjamin, a 20th-century, German-Jewish philosopher, cultural critic and essayist.
Benjamin deserves his own AOC post in this moment of the daily drumbeat of hate against progressive thinkers from Donald Trump, Kanye West and many others.
1) Few of us believe the campaign ever came to life without the approval of Demna or someone very high up at Balenciaga, Demna undercuts his own fashion industry credibility.
2) Balenciaga threw Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman, Bella Hadid and more to the curb. The brand didn’t give a twit how Demna’s artistry might impact their careers and reputations.
3) America has angry vigilantes toting AR-15s and other high-capacity guns killing people at random — and many victims are members of the LGBTQ community, called groomers.
![Chanel Métiers d’Art [Pre-Fall 2023] Show in Dakar, Senegal Did Not Go 'Badly Wrong'](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/55f45174e4b0fb5d95b07f39/1671411381441-LZWJC20M6FYW1LZTOM7T/Chanel-Pre-Fall-2023-Show-in-Dakar-Senegal-00008.jpeg)
