In this 2015 fashion story ‘Commune’ lensed by Mikael Jansson for Interview and renewed March 25, AOC’s sassy side wrote:
In developing countries the women are often in charge of agriculture until the tractors arrive. Then men hop on board.
Models Caroline Trentini, Constance Jablonski, Daria Strokous, Julia Nobis and Lina Berg toil the soil and tend the artichokes in ‘Commune’, lensed by Mikael Jansson for Interview Magazine February 2015./ Makeup by Mark Carasquillo; hair by Tom Jidai
Fast forward nine years, and we wonder if anything has changed. AOC sets new goals for our readers.
Responding to a request for comment from WWD, Valentino confirmed on March 22, 2024 the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli as creative director of Maison Valentino.
Kering’s Role is Unclear in the Mayhoola Decision
We don’t know what the role of Gucci-parent Kering has in this decision. Kering acquired 30% of Valentino in July, 2023, with an option to purchase the whole of Valentino's share capital no later than 2028.
Luxury Stocks Are Holding Steady with Kering Plunge of $6.8 Billion
As fashion’s titanic luxury brands ship rocks in a week that witnessed Kering stock lose $6.8 billion of value on Wednesday, following news of a 20% revenue decrease at Gucci, Kering is the hardest hit.
LVMH is holding steady and positive, along with other key brands like Brunello Cuccinelli and Ralph Lauren.
AOC believes that very different luxury brand marketing positions at these more ‘humanist-centered luxury brands’, coupled with deep bench strength in executive talent at LVMH — but also individual luxury brands like Cucinelli and Lauren — are positioning them to weather storms in the luxury sector.
Italian luxury brand Valentino is making headlines today, with news that the maison’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli has come to the end of his Valentino tenure after 25 years.
The Italian humanist was not a member of the Maison Valentino family in 1995, when esteemed photographer Herb Ritts [IG] created this series of elegant but sensually provocative images anchored by Christy Turlington of the Valentino F/W 1995.96 collection for Vanity Fair US.
AOC wonders if fashion scholars have explored this transition of sexual mores, especially within the Italian brands, who historically and geographically lived closer to the Levant-based lands of the goddess worship that predated monotheism.
What is true is that the woman — Turlington here — is the center of this ritualistic fashion ritual, captured for Valentino in 1995 by Herb Ritts.
Top model Vivienne Rohner docks in Palma De Mallorca, Spain, luxuriating in warm waters lapping over the capital city of the Balearic Islands in Spain. Rohner is styled by Katie Burnett in Zara’s new Spring 2024 beachwear arrivals, lensed by Carlijn Jacobs.
Photographer Fernando Sippel [IG] brings his poetic and sensual photographic vision to Rio De Janeiro for a fashion story ‘Rainforest’, shared in the February 2024 digital issue of Numéro Netherlands [IG]. / Hair and makeup by Claudio Belizario
Jose Camarano styles model and rainforest activist Emilly Nunes in images that express the deep relevance and symbolism of the rainforest in human life on planet Earth.
WWD shared the unconfirmed rumor that Louis Vuitton hopes to take over the defeated proposal for a 109-key Cheval Blanc hotel on the 50,000 sq foot property on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.
Weekend Paris Protests at New Louis Vuitton Hotel Site
The circumstances of the 2023 Cheval Blanc Beverly Hills no-vote is even more relevant today, after protesters took over the Paris construction site of the new Louis Vuitton hotel and store in Paris this weekend.
Today, supermodel Candice Swanepoel and Carolina Sanchez [IG] deliver divine new images lensed by Jerome Duran [IG] for the Tropic of C x Agua Bendita swimwear collaboration.
A Gaia Love Letter
Respect and joy over the gifts of the natural world are center stage for both brands: Tropic of C and Agua Bendita. Sustainability and a deep-seeded respect for Gaia are key brand planks.
Equally important, connections among mothers and their children send precious Gaia statements about human connections on earth.
Mushrooms on Two Levels of Symbolism: Ancient Worship and a Global Mushroom Network
The creation of a charming mushroom print for the Tropic of C x Agua Bendita drop has deep roots in many ancient cultures around the world.
In particular, our focus on psilocybin or ‘magic mushrooms’ is fundamental to the much-acclaimed rise of western civilization.
Top model Imaan Hammam fronts the late February 2024 release of Zara Swimwear. The images remind us that spring is coming in to the northern hemisphere, and swimming is on our minds.
Some of the earliest examples of ancient swimmers include the frescoes in the Cave of Swimmers in Egypt, dating back to around 10,000 years ago.
Water holds immense symbolic significance in various global religions due to its powerful and transformative nature. In many belief systems, water is seen as a source of life and purification.
Read on about the role of water in Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam and indigenous cultures.
Margaret Zhang’s tenure as editor-in-chief of Vogue China will be a short one.
Condé Nast chief content officer Anna Wintour shared the news with Vogue China staff in an email on Friday that Zhang will be leaving the publication at the end of March when her contract expires.
Youngest EIC Ever
Zhang’s appointment to the prestigious position of editor-in-chief in February 2021 redefined the career skills propelling a professional talent into such a prestigious position. Not only was Zhang the youngest Vogue editor ever at just 27, she was the first influencer — and one with little magazine experience — to be named a top editor at any Vogue edition.
Models Devyn Garcia, Doutzen Kroes, Imaan Hammam, Lily Aldridge and Mayowa Nicholas invite us into Victoria’s Secret 7.0, or whatever version we’on at this point. Anne is totally lost.
It’s great, though to see such a high-quality cast assembled on behalf of the new Body by Victoria 2024 Campaign.[IG] Photographer Mikael Jansson [IG] captures the quintet, styled by Camilla Nickerson. / Makeup by Mark Carrasquillo; hair by James Pecis
We don’t know the annual results for VS, which had another very tough year in revenue and profitability in 2023. Those results will become public on March 7, 2024.
It seemes that the global fashion show documentary did not fare particularly well, as VS chief executive Martin Waters said — speaking about a list of VS actions to reinvigorate the entire business, not only the renewed 2023 fashion show: “Despite everyone’s best endeavours, it’s not been enough to carry the day.”
Healthy Food for Kids Unites Jennifer Garner and Ron Finley
It’s been over five years since AOC wrote about Jennifer Garner’s co-owned business ‘Once Upon a Farm’. Our focus in summer 2018 was the actor’s support of Ron Finley, the Gangsta Gardener of the Ron Finley Project.
Jennifer Garner got AOC’s attention today after seeing a Fortune Magazine headline that Once Upon a Farm is now a $100 million business eyeing an IPO.
AOC knew in 2018 that Once Upon a Farm had B-Corp status. But we were confused reading today that the company also registered as a Public Benefit Corporation [PBC] in 2021.
Of course, we asked: What’s a PBC? Now we have some answers.
On Super Bowl Sunday, the Tod’s-LVMH decades-long business connection went into high gear with news that Tod’s Diego Della Valle, his brother Andrea Della Valle and the LVMH-backed private equity firm L Catterton have entered an agreement involving the launch of a tender offer at €43 per Tod’s share. The goal of delisting Tods’Group from the Italian stock exchange is in sight.
Today’s financial offer will leave the Della Valle Family with a 54 percent stake in Tod’s Group capital and assets; L Catterton will indirectly own 36 percent and Delphine SAS [a fully-owned subsidiary of LVMH] will retain a 10 percent stake.
Tod’s first announced a desire to delist its company from the Italian stock exchange in August 2022. That effort failed in October 2022, when a bid launched solely by the Della Valle family failed to reach the 90% threshold required to delist.
Anne of Carversville wrote days ago about about our growing understanding of the management style of LVMH/Bernard Arnault-trained executives. The trees planted have deep roots that bear premium fruit with long-term alliances, strong interpersonal friendships, trust and loyalties. It’s impressive.
Italian Maison Acqua Di Parma, a member of the LVMH family of artisans and artists-inspired maisons, brings its Italian heritage and Milanese creativity to Seoul with the Acqua di Parma Yellow Café. The design by Dorothée Meilichzon fuses Italian charm with the dynamic spirit of Seoul.
Located at Lotte Avenuel Jamsil B1F, Acqua di Parma Yellow Café is much more than a café, proposing an immersion into the Maison’s unique aesthetic and heritage.
Indeed, you are seeing a ‘wavy plate’ on a shelf [below] in Seoul’s new Acqua di Parma Yellow Café. If you seek a concrete signal about the hoped-for evolution of the new cafe in Seoul, recall the March 2022 pop-up in Milan for the brand’s new fragrance Colonia CLUB.
Netflix announced on Wednesday that Emily Ratajkowski will join the new Lena Dunham series ‘Too Much’, a romantic comedy series created by Dunham and husband Luis Felber.
The announcement is perfect timing for EmRata, who returns as the face of the latest Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Tiger Lily perfume campaign, lensed by Anthony Arquier [IG].
The more AOC studies LVMH from every angle, the more impressive the organization becomes. I’ve been researching ways in which LVMH has addressed the philosophy of humanism. The concept flourishes across the maisons, and it seems that great care is given to developing both the executives and the artisans.
Fundamental to the maisons is a similar vision for how the brands interact with their clients — and not only their elite-class clients. LVMH plants deep, dynamic forests for their brands.
As everyone says, LVMH moves fast, but it’s also the case that huge mistakes are avoided because of a culture of deep roots and also deep knowledge about the humans who work in their businesses.
Top model Barbara Palvin brings her sensual mix of femininity and seductive, innocent coquette to For Love & Lemons Valentine’s Day 2024collection, lensed by Carin Backoff [IG].
The History of Valentine’s Day
AOC embarked on a brief history of Valentine’s Day to support these images. It became so complicated with historical data that resonates with 2023 politics in America, that we are backing off and issuing it separately ‘next-door’ to this page.
American designer Zac Posen is starting his next chapter in San Francisco, accepting a dual role as Executive Vice President & Creative Director of Gap Inc and Chief Creative Officer of Old Navy.
In Posen, Dickson said he saw a combination of cultural savvy and technical skill that could jumpstart Gap Inc. getting it back on track.
Posen’s position is the first time Gap Inc. has hired a creative lead at the executive portfolio level which includes Athleta, Banana Republic, and Old Navy besides Gap.
Dickson is looking for an intellectual creative partner to cultivate and inspire his own vision at Gap. Part of Posen’s role will be to create sparkplug synergy in Dickson and other creatives across the organization.
In advance of his NFL Super Bowl Sunday halftime show, Usher fronts a new campaign for SKIMS Stretch and SKIMS Cotton mens collections.
“Kim’s been a longtime friend of mine who’s always been so supportive of my work, so the opportunity to collaborate together on a campaign that supports both of our highly anticipated launches made total sense,” Usher told the press about his Skims debut. “Launching this campaign ahead of multiple career milestones feels like a full circle moment, with SKIMS.”
The brand will be offering an exclusive version of Usher’s new album, ‘Coming Home’, featuring a bonus track. The Skims product drops on Monday, February 12, noon EST.
Italian luxury brand Bottega Veneta opened its third store in Milan on Tuesday, with a design perfectly integrated into Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a landmark location between the city’s Duomo cathedral and the Teatro alla Scala.
Covering about 2,600 square feet over two levels, the store is AOC’s favorite to date. It’s modern without being cold and sumptuous without being overbearing. Even the huge gold planter works for AOC. Love the green leather.
“There are different experiences of space in the store,” Matthieu Blazy told WWD. “I wanted to express the idea of a domestic interior referring to Italian modernist architecture that contrasts with the aesthetic of a spaceship. And to capture the intimacy and the imagination of getting dressed.”
Kristina O’Neill, former EIC of WSJ Magazine is now installed at Sotheby’s as Head of Sotheby’s Media and editor-in-chief of a revamped Sotheby’s Magazine.
What an exciting creative road lies ahead of her. AOC raises this topic because O’Neill seems perfectly primed to tap into the creative and business evolution going on at the world’s largest auction house. Visually, it’s one that expands the customer base and also acquires “heart” along the way.
O’Neill can catch the modernized Sotheby’s football and run with it. Her decade of work at WSJ Magazine reveals her status as a change agent. Only someone like AOC who can easily call up a decade of her work for review is aware that O’Neill was featuring Black talent long before the summer of 2020.
British-Ghanaian photographer Campbell Addy comes to mind. Outside of a small feature in British Vogue in 2018, Addy shot for WSJ Magazine before any of the other major magazines.