What the Future of Tech Holds for Bespoke Fashion

What the Future of Tech Holds for Bespoke Fashion AOC Fashion

As a pure term ‘Bespoke’ is English-derived and means ‘made to order’ mainly from the customer’s measurements, with alterations to each customer’s taste made in fabric and the garment design process.

A bespoke garment is generally machine-made, unlike ‘couture’, in which a substantial portion of the garment – typically 60% minimum — is made by hand.

Bespoke fashion is generally considered to be an investment piece. In the increasingly important world of deadstock fabrics, a bespoke fashion purchase becomes a tiny production run, sometimes a one-off, tailored for each individual buyer.

In a slow-fashion world – one we do not live in – consultation between the bespoke fashion customer and creator would not happen over a Zoom call. Reality is that Zoom-call consultations are the tip of the iceberg in ways that technology is woven into not only bespoke fashion but all fashion – high and low; slow and fast.

Imagine for a moment living in a bespoke house. Does anyone seriously disagree that while the home may be a renovated brownstone in Manhattan that pays homage to the Gilded Age past, smart technology is running the housekeeper, who is running the home.  

Technology now affects all aspects of modern life, including what we wear, how we make it, and where we buy it. So yes, even bespoke fashion can and is affected by modern technology, and a large part of this technological advancement is big data. This article looks at how technology and big data affect bespoke fashion and why it is important in the modern age for all businesses to be aware of the benefits, risks, and challenges of big data.

'Team Too Much' by Carlijn Jacobs Blasts into Ancestral Future for Dazed Magazine Winter 2021

'Team Too Much' by Carlijn Jacobs Blasts into Ancestral Future for Dazed Magazine Winter 2021 AOC Fashion

If only Anne had been the quiet muse in the room, my spirit hovering up in the corner of the ceiling with no body attached, when photographer Carlijn Jacobs [IG} and Dazed EIC, stylist extraordinaire Ibrahim Kamara conceived ‘Team Too Much’.

It’s not like Carlijn needs a lot of coaxing when it come to visual flights of imagination, but this story is creative DNA on steroids. And in case anyone hasn’t noticed, Ib Kamara’s creative engine transmits a high frequency power supply to others in his orbit. His is not a one-act play, but a serial novel — a Shakespearean mind gone 21st century modern, with deep ancestral African roots.

In three words: creative awe blitzkrieg. Kamara’s got a lot of people living in his head. He’s a spiritual, creative, limitless empath of the highest order. Give him room, people. A lot of room. Let him live in free fall some of the time and see where he lands,

Let his fairy dust fall on the creative minds around him. Carlijn is great on her own, but I can’t help thinking that 1+1=3 here.

‘Team Too Much’ models, actors, players include Abeny Nihal, Babafemi Mustapha,, Dave Cho, Delphi McNicol, Diana Achan, Goy Manese, Grace Sharp, Hugo Fulton, Leo Comanescu, Temitope Ajayi, Tsunaina and Xue Huizi,/ Hair by Kiyoko Odo; makeup by Ammy Drammeh

For her part, Jacobs quips on IG that the lead image invokes “prepping for that new lockdown”. She posted the image yesterday, and sadly, Carlijn is spot on. The new variant is called Omicron. ~ Anne

There Is NO Justice: Louis Vuitton Men's Virgil Abloh Passes From Virulent Cancer

Virgil Abloh, the founder of luxury streetwear brand Off-White and artistic director of men’s wear at Louis Vuitton, died in Houston Sunday at age 41. Abloh has battled a rare cancer cardiac angiosarcoma for two years.

Abloh’s role within LVMH “made him the most powerful Black executive in the most powerful luxury group in the world”, wrote Vanessa Friedman for the New York Times.

“We are devastated to announce the passing of our beloved Virgil Abloh, a fiercely devoted father, husband, son, brother, and friend,” a message posted on the designer’s Instagram account stated. “He is survived by his loving wife Shannon Abloh, his children Lowe Abloh and Grey Abloh, his sister Edwina Abloh, his parents Nee and Eunice Abloh, and numerous dear friends and colleagues.”

For people who didn’t know this well-kept secret — like us — news of Virgil Abloh’s passing is a grade AAA gut punch.

“Virgil is incredibly good at creating bridges between the classic and the zeitgeist of the moment,” Michael Burke, chief executive of Louis Vuitton, told The New York Times when Mr. Abloh was named to the luxury brand.

As Friedman points out, Virgil Abloh was controversial in his approach to design — not having any formal education in fashion. Abloh had no difficulties acknowledging ways in which he borrowed, built upon and transformed the designs of others into his own. He studied civil engineering at the University of Wisconsin-Madison and received a master’s degree in architecture from the Illinois Institute of Technology. These tools gave him a definite design perspective — which combined with superb instincts in understanding how to generate cultural currency in today’s consumer world.

To be honest, with Bernard Arnault backing him with the world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton, I don’t think it matters all that much what “some people” thought of Abloh’s approach to design. The son of Ghanaian immigrants who lived in Rockford, Illinois, grew up immersed in skate culture and hip-hop.

Virgil Abloh’s rise was closely involved with Kanye West. Since AOC is NOT a fan of Kanye West — and less so every day — you can refresh your memory at the NYT.

In a historical timeline that Abloh shared with GQ’s Tom Bettridge, this quote resonates:

“There was a professor by the name of Louise Wilson, who was the head of the [master's program] at Central Saint Martins in London, and she was the teacher for some of the greatest designers of our time. Kanye and I sat with her, and we were like, “Hey, we want to learn the right way.” And she basically said, “You guys are idiots. You know more than my students. Why on earth would you want to go to fashion school?” But that process was sort of how we ended up interning at Fendi. And when we were there, we did all the meetings. We were off the radar in Rome, getting to work at 9 a.m. on a Monday. We did all the intern shit, and this was in the midst of My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy. We went to Hawaii after this period.

WSJ Magazine has a solid overview of Virgil Abloh’s work, and my link should give you access.

British Vogue EIC Edward Enninful called Abloh “a giant among men”, writing:

“Virgil Abloh changed the fashion industry. Famously prolific, he always worked for a greater cause than his own illustrious career: to open the door to art and fashion for future generations, so that they – unlike himself – would grow up in a creative world with people to mirror themselves in.”

Wondering if Ralph Lauren had weighed in yet on Abloh’s passing, AOC learned that his first design was a screenprint on a Ralph Lauren rugby shirt. Lauren was on my mind because in November 2020, I learned that one of our most prominent anti-racist voices Ibram X. Kendi has battled colon cancer.

His own revelation came a few months after ‘Black Panther’ star Chadwick Boseman died of cancer on my birthday. This is the same day — August 28 — that Emmett Louis Till was lynched beyond recognition in Mississippi in 1955.

Till didn’t die of cancer, but I’ve studied the evolving positive linkage between racism and diseases like cancer for several years now. The scientific paradigm ties the constant stress of racism in the lives of Black people to chronic inflammation in the body — similar to that of being in war for extended periods of time or a prolonged situation of verbal and/or physical abuse.

The ties between inflammation and disease — in the form of genetic damage due to inflammation — grow stronger every year, now that scientists better understand inflammation of the body and its impact on health generally.

AOC isn’t suggesting that all of these creative and masterfully talented young Black men are getting cancer because of systemic racism. But we all should at least be knowledgeable about the topic. And with Ralph Lauren being so involved for decades now in funding major cancer research projects and care, I suspect that some of his own activism is grounded in the scientific knowledge he has acquired on this very subject.

Ralph’s recent holiday 2021 campaign — one of the most activist I’ve ever seen from any luxury brand — assures me that he understands the cancer-related toll that discrimination and racism, sexism and anti-LGBTQ policies take on the human body. I really applaud Ralph’s efforts and in the case of Virgil Abloh, I literally screamed in disbelief at what I was reading. When I wrote “There is no justice,” those words are coming from a deeply emotional belief. ~ Anne

Ina Lekiewicz Shoots Giedre Dukauskaite in Iceland for Vogue Poland December 2021

Ina Lekiewicz Shoots Giedre Dukauskaite in Iceland for Vogue Poland December 2021 AOC Fashion

Photographer, stylist, art director and EIC of Vogue Poland Ina Lekiewicz delivers Lithuanian model Giedre Dukauskaite in ‘The Sound of Silence’ for the December 2021 issue. Ali + Aniko style Dukauskaite for the cover story shot in Iceland.

Ina Lekiewicz was on a mission in Iceland, speaking with local people about living in harmony with nature and the idea of omnipresent silence. “Confrontation with nature is ruthless. It leaves a permanent mark on you,” says Hördur Ingason, a photographer born in the capital of Iceland. “It makes us more dark and melancholic. But we also owe her inner peace,” he adds.

n a translated paragraph from the editor’s letter, we stumble into one of those obvious questions for us fashionistas — a question that stands on its own with or without a conversation around sustainability: Why do we not respect clothes? Better still:

“What if we stopped treating clothes like rags?”

Michał Zaczyński is looking for an answer to the question why we do not respect clothes. In the essay "What if we stopped treating clothes like rags?" he writes that the contempt is primarily due to a lack of knowledge, experience and poor PR: "If we knew how much work it takes to create a dress, and had an idea of the complexity of the process, we would not treat it so condescendingly."

The fashion editor of "Vogue Polska" Kamila Wagner in a special report analyzes the situation in the fashion industry, which has finally begun to demand balance and suggests itself how to achieve balance in many of its fields: "In balance, we see the only chance to survive and, in fact, we seek it on the market of services and goods. The related discourse thus mastered all trade and the communication that is inseparable from it, 'she writes.

A Racy Penélope Cruz Puts Her Foot on the Gas,by Nico Bustos for Elle España December 2021

Actor Penélope Cruz covers the December 2021 issue of ELLE España styled by Sylvia Montoliù in black lace dressed woman driving red convertible. You get the drift. Nico Bustos captures Cruz, who is winning rave reviews for her role in ‘Parallel Mothers’, with her great collaborator Pedro Almodóvar.

“Parallel Mothers” debuted to rave reviews at the Venice Film Festival, where Cruz captured the best actress prize, and then resonated with audiences and critics again when it screened on the closing night of the New York Film Festival, writes Variety Magazine.

The BBC writes that the film received a nine-minute standing ovation in Venice.

Nico Bustos [IG] photographs Cruz for ELLE Espana and also for an excellent interview in Variety. We looked forever for an online ELLE Spain editorial for translation.

Candice Swanepoel Drops New Tropic of C Swimwear Style and Color Update

Candice Swanepoel Drops New Tropic of C Swimwear Style and Color Update AOC Fashion

Top of the list earth goddess Candice Swanepoel travels to fashion’s fav place Puglia, Italy to pose in new Tropic of C sustainable swimwear style and color updates. Eduardo Bravin [IG] photographs Tropic of C’s new metallic shade serpentine.

Harris Reed x Etro Collab Achieves Perfect Alignment Magic Carpet Fashion Ride

Designer Harris Reed of Harris Reed x Etro Collab via Etro IG.

All images courtesy of Etro.

A Star Is Born: Harris Reed

When the convo is focused on young, emerging, fashion designers, do not make an example of Harris Reed. Perhaps never in the future of fashion has a young designer woke on the day of his [her] first-ever runway show as the subject of a 5,000 word profile on said designer in The New Yorker.

On the morning of Harris Reed’s spring 2022 fashion show, the 25-year-old, 2020 graduate from Central Saint Martins, was living rent free in a perfectly-appointed studio suite at London’s Standard Hotel, a reward for his exceptional, creative status. Reed insists that the majority of this good fortune came in moments of serendipity, none more so than his chance meeting with celebrity stylist Harry Lambert. That encounter opened the perfectly-primed for Reed’s design-vision door to the world of Harry Styles. In the words of Vogue:

“The pop star’s 39 million followers kicked in, and just like that, a star was born. As his debut show demonstrated, Reed—who is the son of the Oscar-winning movie producer Nick Reed—thrives in the costume territory. He repurposed bridal and groom’s wear sourced from the British charity chain Oxfam into majestic hybrids of gowns and tuxedos, topping them off with enormous spherical headpieces that have become his trademark.”

Fast-forward now and who better for Harris Reed to collaborate with on a collection of genderless, sustainable, and colorful voluminous blouses than the house of Etro.

Harris Reed x Etro partnership

“When Harris Reed reached out to collaborate with us on this special project, I did not have doubts. Harris is a young and talented designer that conveys wonderful messages with his work and I was happy to have the chance to mix our textile research and archival fabrics with his innovative approach and taste. I also loved the idea of giving a new life to archival fabrics by transforming them into exclusive ‘one-of-a-kind’ creations,” said Veronica Etro, creative director at Etro Womenswear.

Veronica Etro and Harris Reed backstage at the spring 2022 Etro show in Milan Photo: Saskia Lawaks / Courtesy of Etro

House of Etro: Medici Mindset Meets Hippie Counter-Culture

Founded in 1968 by Gerolamo “Gimmo” Etro and his antiques dealer wife Roberta, the then textile company had amassed a collection of 300 antique shawls — a treasure that remains one of the largest private collections in the world today.

Etro was born in a global counter-culture moment, a configuration of now-aging minds capable of connecting well decades later with a human like Harris Reed. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele would easily have navigated the beards and long hair of the late ‘60s hippie movement.

The sexual revolution was in full bloom at the moment of Etro’s birth, and Yves Saint Laurent was hardly the only man to be found wearing a caftan. As some young people became global vagabonds, design inspo ran rampant in the streets and cafes. Young people were learning about different cultures — yes, defined by the colonial confinement of minds — but still with deep roots in ancient cultures like Mesopotamia, a region that includes parts of present-day Turkey, Syria, and Iraq, only men wore caftans and related flowing robes.

Young designers always fancy themselves inventing a new look, rather than circling back through history to reinvent, refresh, reintroduce in updated fashion styles for a new era. Harris Reed is no different in knowing when the moment is ‘right’ to plunge into what suddenly seems like a fresh and revolutionary new look and way of dressing.

Malika El Maslouhi Holiday Moves by Giampaolo Sgura for Sunday Times Style UK

Model Malika El Maslouhi puts some serious energy into the weekend’s Sunday Times Style Magazine UK cover story featuring ‘Bring it on!’ . The spirit is joy and movement with a focus on “272 luxury gifts you’ll really, really want.” Verity Parker styles El Maslouhi in bold-colors clothes lensed by Giampaolo Sgura [IG]. /Executive producer Leila Hartley; hair by Franco Gobbi; makeup by Cosetta Giorgietti

El Maslouhi’s poses reminds us that scientific evidence is mounting around the ways that moving our bodies changes our brains and helps enormously with stress management, both short-term and long. If joy is in fashion’s current mindset, the science around possessions and well-being or happiness remains murky. In fact, science delineates between well-being and happiness, on the topic of material wealth.

The reasons why body movement and exercise improve brain health and positivity are not definitely clear either. But all science agrees that movement is attached to joy and a positive mental outlook, whether resulting from stress management, that elusive endorphin-rush you read about or both.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley Launches Rose Inc Beauty at NET-A-PORTER

“ . . . if I want to make stuff happen, I have to be really proactive.”

Of course, one must allow serendipity to operate within our lives, but most of us would be well-served by Rosie’s understanding of her life story.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley Launches Rose Inc Beauty at NET-A-PORTER AOC Fashion

As Rosie Huntington-Whiteley awaits the birth of her second child with partner actor Jason Statham, NET-A-PORTER brings her Rose Inc beauty products to their collection of beauty products at the end of November.

Natasha Wray styles Rosie in her preferred sleek, modern-minimalism style with key pieces from Amiri, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Gabriela Hearst, Givenchy, Jil Sander, The Row, Totême and more for images by Nicole Maria Winkler.

Alice Casely-Hayford interviews the new beauty mogul — note ‘mogul’ and ‘empire’ are buzzwords everywhere today, almost like ‘duality’ — who will be spending this Christmas with family in the UK.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley: Master of her own Destiny

Launched in September 2021, Rose Inc beauty products have a well-conceived, natural editorial platform that the former Victoria’s Secret Angel created in 2018. One of the impressive aspects of Huntington-Whiteley’s career is how strategic she is in plotting her life and business strategy.

Jack’s mother began her Marks & Spencer partnership nearly a decade ago — a decision questioned by some but one that Huntington-Whiteley saw as an opportunity to reach a large audience from a prime spot of instant authority.

The supermodel also occupied a unique perch as a glam addition to one of the world’s biggest retail operations suffering losses against more energetic and creative competitors.

AOC has written multiple times about Rose Inc and Rosie’s business savvy. One new concept in the interview struck us as words of wisdom that all people — and particularly women — should heed.

She recalls her frustrations aged 19 at not being the master of her own destiny: “I remember picking up the phone to my agent, checking every day what options had come in. And I remember getting off the phone and being so fed up with my life being at the mercy of [other] people’s decisions. It was in that moment that I thought, if I want to make stuff happen, I have to be really proactive.”

Millions of us say we want to be masters of our own destiny. But — as Huntington-Whitely reminds us — she was not only proactive but demanding of her agent and presumably herself in accountability for achieving that goal.

Of course, one must allow serendipity to operate within our lives, but most of us would be well-served by Rosie’s understanding of her life story.

“ . . . if I want to make stuff happen, I have to be really proactive.”

Laura Dern and Son Ellery Front Proenza Schouler x Mercedes Benz 2021 Campaign

Laura Dern and Son Ellery Front Proenza Schouler x Mercedes Benz 2021 Campaign AOC Fashion

America’s New York-based fashion label Proenza Schouler unveils its largely-sustainable, gender-neutral capsule collab with Mercedes Benz. American Actor Laura Dern fronts the new campaign with son, musician and model Ellery Harper.

Proenza Schouler co-founders and designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez created a luxurious vision of the iconic American road trip. The journey has a unique twist of being positioned ias a narrative between two people with a special relationship. “In many ways it's a celebration of one of the most important relationships in our own personal lives; the one with our mothers," the designers told the press.

Luca Khouri Eyes 'Those Noble Natures' in Portland Parish Jamaica for Re-Edition Magazine

Luca Khouri Eyes 'Those Noble Natures' in Portland Parish Jamaica for Re-Edition Magazine AOC Fashion

Models Breana Carson and Val Haughton are styled by Vittoria Cerciello in ‘Those noble natures’ in Luca Khouri’s [IG] images for Re-Edition Magazine Fall 2021.

The images were shot in Portland Parish Jamaica, on the northeastern point of the island. Portland Parish is considered to be one of the most beautiful places on earth.

This fashion story immediately brought to mind two earlier AOC posts that are fundamental to our understanding of Black history.

The first is Jackie Nickerson’s 2018 images of Solange Knowles, shot in ‘Runaway Bay’ Jamaica for Dazed Magazine. We learned then about the area as an escape route for slaves. Not part of the Dazed interview was AOC’s own discovery of The Jamaica Maroons and the Danger of Categorical Thinking..

The second past AOC post triggered by the images themselves is These Abandoned Buildings Are the Last Remnants of Liberia’s Founding History. Young people may not know about the West African nation created by former slaves in Liberia.

Coincidentally, the New York Times touched down in Liberia two days ago with Marking a Different Thanksgiving Tradition, From West Africa. We will pick up that story in a separate post.