Frida Aasen Launches a Beach Bunny Neon Revolution Lensed by Sam Dameshek

Frida Aasen Launches a Beach Bunny Neon Revolution Lensed by Sam Dameshek AOC Fashion

Model Frida Aasen launches Beach Bunny Swimwear’s [IG]Neon Revolution Lookbook Summer 2021. The northern hemisphere is heading into fall, but Beach Bunny follows the sun to a new hot spot, south of LA.

The smashing designs offer a criss cross, magic carpet ride of precious sun fun styled by Natasha Colvin. LA-based, 20-year-old photographer Sam Dameshek [IG] flashes a lookbook that delights our senses.

Joy comes in many forms, and in a grey world, Beach Bunny delivers a color-saturated, hot weather getaway.

Beyoncé Celebrates 40 Years of Excellence for Harper's Bazaar, Lensed by Campbell Addy

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Beyoncé Celebrates 40 Years of Excellence for Harper's Bazaar, Lensed by Campbell Addy AOC Fashion

Beyoncé Knowles-Carter is revered worldwide. As she prepares to celebrate her 40th birthday on September 4, the star is ready to listen to her own inner voice.

During the years of making herself a star music talent, businesswoman, activist, Black cultural hero, philanthropist, mother to four-year-old twins Rumi and Sir and nine-year-old Blue Ivy, and wife to JAY-Z, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter learned the power of putting in the work. “Vision and intention weren’t enough; I had to put in the work,” Beyoncé explains in the September 2021 Harper’s Bazaar US cover story.

The September issue of Harper’s is the first time in a decade that Beyoncé has appeared on the cover of the magazine.

For the majority of her life, including her childhood, the mega-talent had not only ambition and a desire to create excellence in her life. Beyoncé had standards — the highest standards for herself. She explains:

If something wasn’t helping me reach my goal, I decided to invest no time in it. I didn’t feel like I had time to “kiki” or hang out. I sacrificed a lot of things and ran from any possible distraction. I felt as a young Black woman that I couldn’t mess up. I felt the pressure from the outside and their eyes watching for me to trip or fail. I couldn’t let my family down after all the sacrifices they made for me and the girls. That meant I was the most careful, professional teenager and I grew up fast. I wanted to break all of the stereotypes of the Black superstar, whether falling victim to drugs or alcohol or the absurd misconception that Black women were angry. I knew I was given this amazing opportunity and felt like I had one shot. I refused to mess it up, but I had to give up a lot.

Tiffany & Co jewelry is worn throughout the fashion story ‘The Once & Future Beyoncé.’ With her husband JAY-Z , the couple have been named new faces and ambassadors for the luxe jewelry brand. LVMH, Tiffany’s new owner, is now an equal owner with JAY-Z of his champagne brand Armand de Brignac, aka ‘Ace of Spades’.

Beyoncé’s narrative for Harper’s is illuminating and deeper than others we’ve read. She tells a wonderful story about agencies and “formulaic corporate companies” that’s truly wonderful. She’s always sought to surround herself with creative, innovative thinkers, but sometimes there’s just no escaping sterile, corporate thinking.

Like there was the time this agency told her that her audience didn’t like black and white photography. It had to be color. ‘And how do you know that,’ Beyoncé wondered to herself. ‘Market research’ was the answer, and the modern music icon wasn’t having it. She was beyond aggravated:

It pissed me off that an agency could dictate what my fans wanted based on a survey. Who did they ask? How is it possible to generalize people this much? Are these studies accurate? Are they fair? Are all the people I’m trying to uplift and shine a light on included? They’re not. It triggered me when I was told, “These studies show…” I was so exhausted and annoyed with these formulaic corporate companies that I based my whole next project off of black and white photography, including the videos for “Single Ladies” and “If I Were a Boy” and all of the artwork by Peter Lindbergh for I Am…Sasha Fierce, which ended up being my biggest commercial success to date. I try to keep the human feeling and spirit and emotion in my decision-making.

Fall 2021 Designer Collections September for Harper's Bazaar UK by Erik Madigan Heck

Fall 2021 Designer Collections September for Harper's Bazaar UK -Pt 1 AOC Fashion

Photographer Erik Madigan Heck [IG] joins stylist Leith Clark for an in-depth look at the Fall 2021 designer collections. Models Bimpe Onasanya, Marie Hilger, Maya Gunn, Noor, Tabatha May and perhaps more showcase the key fashion looks for modern fashionistas in Harper’s Bazaar UK September 2021 issue.

Luxury labels included are Alberta Ferretti, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Burberry, Chanel, Chloe, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Ermanno Scervino, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Max Mara, Michael Kors Collection, Miu Miu, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, Tod’s, Valentino, and Versace.

The fashion shoot took place in Dorset, England./ Hair by Daniel Martin; makeup by Florrie White

Fall 2021 Designer Collections September for Harper's Bazaar UK -Pt 2 AOC Fashion

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Tyler Mitchell Flashes JW Anderson x Persol Eyewear 2021, Hip Hair by Jawara

Photographer Tyler Mitchell [IG] captures J.W. Anderson x Persol Eyewear 2021 in images as much about the hair as the eyewear. Models include Adonai Tesfamariam, Akdeniz Marat, Jalen Espeut, Sherry Shi and Tyler Hogan styled by Benjamin Bruno. / Makeup by Fara Homidi

The man in charge of hair is Jawara, Senior Beauty Editor at Large for Dazed Beauty, who has a number of notable accolades under his belt, including a British Fashion Council New Wave Creatives Award.

Tyler Mitchell Flashes JW Anderson x Persol Eyewear 2021, Hip Hair by Jawara AOC Fashion

Jawara first started his career as a salon assistant in Brooklyn when he was just 16. After graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology and the Aveda Institute, Jawara moved to London and began assisting industry legends Guido Palau and Luigi Murenu on runway shows and shoots. It was after being mentored by icon Sam McKnight that Jawara reached the level of artistry at which he works today.

His impressive roster of clients includes Off-White, Gucci, Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, Nina Ricci, Thierry Mugler, Chloe, Chanel, Hermès and Tiffany & Co. Related: Jawara [IG] worked with photographer Philip-Daniel Ducasse on the May 2021 NYT post The Joy of Black Hair.

Beyoncé's Ivy Park Rodeo Drop Tells History of Black Cowboys Past and Present

Beyoncé's Ivy Park Rodeo Drop Tells History of Black Cowboys Past and Present

Adidas has teamed up with Beyoncé for her fourth Ivy Park capsule collection, made primarily of denim. AOC is praying against our research odds that the major denim drop Adidas x Ivy Park uses sustainable denim. Called Ivy Park Rodeo, the collection consists of 58 women’s and unisex apparel pieces, five shoes and 13 accessories — all designed as reimagined and modernized takes on classic Western wear.

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David Sims Flashes Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2021 Campaign in Normandy

David Sims Flashes Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2021 Campaign in Normandy

Models Clementine Balcaen, Evie Saunders, Ida Heiner, Jade Nguyen, Kris DeGirolamo, Maria Cosima and Mona Tougaard front the Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2021 Campaign, lensed by David Sims. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière takes the team to Normandy, for the new collection that pays tribute to the brand’s Spirit of Travel with inspiration and direct collaboration with the illustration-rich world of Italian artistic design atelier Fornasetti.

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Edward Enninful, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons Talk 'Creative People'

Edward Enninful, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons Talk 'Creative People'

Photographer Rafael Pavarotti [IG] teams up with British Vogue EIC Edward Enninful in ‘For Creative People To Be Excited Is The Only Way’. The fashion story cast — all associated with Netflix films — includes ‘The Crown’ Emma Corrin; ‘Shadow and Bone’ Jessie Mei Li; ‘Bridgerton’ Simone Ashley; and ‘His House’ Wunmi Mosaku.

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Greta Thunberg Covers Vogue Scandinavia Issue 1 Lensed by Alexandrov Klum

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Greta Thunberg Covers Vogue Scandinavia Issue 1 Lensed by Alexandrov Klum AOC Fashion

Climate activist Greta Thunberg launches the first cover of Vogue Scandinavia Issue 1 August-September 2021, lensed by artists duo Alexandrov Klum [IG], The couple Iris and Mattias Alexandrov Klum live in Stockholm and Costa Blanca, located on the southeastern coast of Spain. Read Vogue Scandinavia’s separate interview with Alexandrov Klum.

As you would expect from Thunberg, she doesn’t mince her words in her interview with Tom Pattinson, but also clarifies where she’s coming from on the topic of optimism and change. What better place to do that than in the launch issue of the new Vogue Scandinavia. Thunberg breaks it down for Pattinson:

“There is some kind of misconception about activists, especially about climate activists that we are just negative and pessimists, and we are just complaining, and we are trying to spread fear but that’s the exact opposite. We are doing this because we are hopeful, we are hopeful that we will be able to make the changes necessary.”

[Note that digitally we’re not finding information of Greta’s clothes. We assume they are by sustainable designers.]

There are models who use their Instagram Vogue covers to thank everyone and express gratitude for the opportunity of stepping into the fashion world limelight. Not Greta Thunberg. She used a Sunday Instagram post. to send her main message about fashion around the world.

“The fashion industry is a huge contributor to the climate-and ecological emergency, not to mention its impact on the countless workers and communities who are being exploited around the world in order for some to enjoy fast fashion that many treat as disposables,”

“Many are making it look as if the fashion industry are starting to take responsibility, by spending fantasy amounts on campaigns where they portray themselves as ‘sustainable,’ ‘ethical,’ ‘green,’ ‘climate neutral’ and ‘fair.’ But let’s be clear: This is almost never anything but pure greenwashing. You cannot mass produce fashion or consume ‘sustainably’ as the world is shaped today. That is one of the many reasons why we will need a system change.”

Greta Thunberg is now 18. In 2020 the then 17-year-old founder of School Strike for Climate and Fridays For Future in America won the inaugural Gulbenkian Prize for Humanity and its accompanying prize worth one million euros. In 2019, Greta was names TIME Magazine’s Person of the Year and she’s has three nominations for the Nobel Peace Prize [2019-2021. Note the 2021 prize will be Awarded in October.]

AOC shares Swedish government-sponsored editorial on the state of fashion consumption in the country: Fast fashion is out — circular fashion is in. Sweden is in it for the long term.

Craig McDean Captures Fendi Fall Winter 2021 with He Cong, Malika, Rianne, Tianna

Craig McDean Captures Fendi Fall Winter 2021 with He Cong, Malika, Rianne, Tianna

Models He Cong, Malika Louback, Rianne Van Rompaey and Tianna St. Louis front Fendi’s Fall 2021 campaign, styled by Melanie Ward. Designers behind the campaign are Kim Jones in the lead, Silvia Venturini Fendi and her daughter, Fendi jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez, with Craig McDean behind the lens./ Hair by Guido Patau; makeup by Peter Philips

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Conservation Architect Gurmeet Sangha Rai by Avani Rai in Vogue India August 2021

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Conservation Architect Gurmeet Sangha Rai by Avani Rai in Vogue India August 2021 AOC Fashion

Mother-daughter duo Gurmeet Sangha Rai and daughter Avani Rai invite us to Chinar Haveli, their family home near Delhi. Both women are connected to legendary lensman Raghu Rai, called India’s best-known photographer alive by Fortune India. His website is awesome.

The women are not mere appendages in the life of Raghu Tai. Gurmeet Sangha Rai is one of India’s most important conservation architects. Priyanka Kapadia styles ‘Lay of the Land’, with hair and makeup by Deepa Verma.

Located two hours from Delhi is Chinar Haveli, a lush and private farmhouse located in the kingdom of nature. The 15-year-old home is build by hand using natural materials. It melds Western concepts with Indian karigari, writes Vogue India.

It’s here that the esteemed conservation architect is captured by her daughter, photographer and artist Avani Rai [IG].

In this interview with TheDesignBridge, Rai talks about the history of architecture and how it has been an evidence to a more intelligent and sensible solution to the world's environmental problems. She also highlights upon the fact that the smallest of the decisions can lead to a larger repercussions.

Steven Meisel Captures Max Mara Fall Winter 2021 70th Anniversary Campaign

Steven Meisel Captures Max Mara Fall Winter 2021 70th Anniversary Campaign

Models Amar Akway, Chloe Oh, Jits Bootsma, Malgosia Bela, Mona Tougaard and Sofia Steinberg lead the parade of celebrations around Italian luxury brand Max Mara’s 70th Anniversary campaign. Photographer Steven Meisel captures the Fall Winter 2021 campaign celebrating today’s Max Mara woman in the eyes of creative director Ian Griffiths: unique, intelligent, self-assured, accomplished, witty and wise. Campaign stylist Carine Roitfeld would most certainly concur./ Hair by Olivier Schawalder; makeup by Pat McGrath

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Dioramour FW2021 Capsule Collection Adores China's August V-Day by Sarah Blais

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Dioramour FW2021 Capsule Collection Adores China's August V-Day by Sarah Blais AOC Fashion

In China, Valentine’s Day is celebrated on August 14, 2021. Dior’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri embraces the power of love with the Dioramour ready-to-wear and home gifts collection inclding DiorMaison Limoges porcelain mugs and dinnerware.

In a bold mix of black, white and red, the Dioramour capsule from the Dior AW 2021 collection hugs the fantasy of fairy tales and 'Alice in Wonderland' with 'D-Chess' checks giving graphic impact to a motorcycle jacket, bucket hat, sweater and silk scarf, and a 'D-Royaume d'Amour' motif scrawled across a white tee.

Sarah Blais [IG] captures the Dioramour collection with video by Fabien Baron. Models are Sofia Steinberg and Maryel Uchida.

Vogue US September 2021: Kaia, Anok, Precious, Bella + by Ethan James Green

Vogue US September 2021: Kaia, Anok, Precious, Bella + by Ethan James Green

Welcome to the creative collective, a capitalist-economy world of more than one star and a [visible] lack of winner gets all competition. Will it last? Perhaps our survival as a species depends on our hugging the idea and holding on to each other tightly.

Models on the cover [not in alphabetical order] include left to right: Kaia Gerber, Anok Yai, Precious Lee, Bella Hadid, Sherry Shi, Ariel Nicholson, Yumi Nu and Lourdes Leon. The ensemble is styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Tonne Goodman, with images by Ethan James Green.

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Karen Elson Poses for InStyle September 2021, Talks New Pro-Karen Modeling Venture

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Karen Elson Poses for InStyle September 2021, Talks New Pro-Karen Modeling Venture AOC Fashion

Supermodel Karen Elson poses on the subscribers cover of InStyle Magazine’s September 2021 issue. Elson is styled by Daniela Paudice in images by Yelena Yemchuk [IG]./ Hair by Recine; makeup by Romy Soleimani

This entire fashion story is fabulous. Elson looks fantastic and Yemchuk’s images are rich and powerfully beautiful.

InStyle’s Karen Elson interview ‘Karen Elson Has the Power’ by Laura Brown delivers a power punch paragraph.

After 18 months of the universally painful and isolating COVID-19 experience, the modeling industry has been one of the first to revert to less than empathetic behavior. So Elson did something radical: She left her agents and now represents herself. The boldness of the move cannot be overstated. Agents not only groom a model's career, they manage finances and travel, often breeding less independence than codependence. And that, of course, can be less than healthy..

I just reread The Cut which is where we first read that Karen Elson is on her own. And now I’ve read the InStyle article. There’s nothing new in this piece about Karen Elson, her work with Model Alliance and all the great role model work that Karen Elson does.

Elson at large raises issues about models getting respect — and money. We know about Elson and the Model Alliance’s campaigns for better treatment for models. Elson has asked previously, why do models not get compensated in ways similar to photographers, for example? Elson is raising some very big questions about the world of modeling beyond respect and being treated with a bit of empathy. Her questions include long-term compensation for creative work that rains money years later.

It’s clear that InStyle EIC Laura Brown has a low opinion of model agencies. But there’s no smoking gun in the InStyle story. I’m speed reading, but there’s not one example of the modeling industry being “one of the first to revert to less than empathetic behavior”, post-COVID. That’s a strong statement, Ms. Brown. Examples would be nice to support your assertion.

The issues — especially the financial issues that Elson raises — have always been at the center of AOC’s commentary about the 80’s supers. Elson observes:

I look at someone like Maye Musk, who I'm obsessed with, and I think, "All right. She's 73 years old. She's badass. She's still doing it." And the norms are being finally pushed up against. I look at Precious Lee. I look at Paloma [Elsesser]. Even Kaia [Gerber], who's now acting. These girls have got so much more to offer than just their beauty. Something has shifted. I remember [casting director] James Scully said to me that in the '80s the models had all the power. They were the ones who were calling the shots, like Linda Evangelista: "I don't get out of bed for less than $10,000." I love Linda, by the way. She is the funniest person on the planet. But they were in charge, and then. Somewhere in the '90s it went to, "Oh, they've got too much power. We've got to smack them back down."

AOC — and Anne personally — have always maintained that the smackdown of models was real — that the industry did say that the supers had too much power (and money). The downsizing of size 4-6 models to size 0 was about far more than sample sizes and the growth of the Asian market where women are smaller.

When you strip supermodel bodies of healthy muscles for ‘heroin chic’ waifs, you are an industry smacking models down to size — literally. And you are stripping them of sexual power. It’s happened to every great goddess in history.

Karen Elson — like most of us — endured a period of intense reflection during COVID lockdown. Elson decided — and we APPLAUD her — that she wants to represent herself. I hope she creates a new paradigm of some kind for other models to follow.

Elson is a realist and given the personal goals she has created for herself, she believes she can do a better job of selling Karen Elson, than her old agency. And she wants some editorial control over her jobs. Saying no to one, doesn’t means she never gets another.

If Google and Apple have talented employees not wanting to work in an office five days a week and Morgan Stanley has MBAs saying ‘no’ to investment banking over no quality of life, it makes perfect sense that Karen Elson doesn’t want to leave her kids on her first getaway post-COVID and run to meet a photographer who decided that very morning that s(he) had to have HER. And could she hop a plain pronto. Elson said “no’. Her kids were more important.

It’s not as if a more empowered model industry never existed. Personally, I think feminism at large got derailed in the late 90s and women have been losing ground ever sense. As Elson points out, there’s some hopeful signs out there in fashion world right now.

It’s silly to make predictions. But many of us are watching very carefully to see how our post-COVID world defines itself. As one new variant hits after another, we may be living a new life for decades to come. Can fashion adjust? It will have to. ~ Anne

Read the entire Karen Elson InStyle interview.

Luc Braquet Captures Tosin and Zelda in 'Fashion Statements' for Tatler UK Sept 2021

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Luc Braquet Captures Tosin and Zelda in 'Fashion Statements' for Tatler UK Sept 2021 AOC Fashion

Models Tosin Olajire and Zelda Attard are styled by Sophie Pera in ‘Fashion Statements’, lensed by Luc Braquet [IG] for Tatler UK September 2021./ Hair by Oskar Pera; makeup by Jose Bass

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Mona Tougaard & Jean Campbell in Naples by Colin Dodgson for Vogue Italia August 2021

Mona Tougaard & Jean Campbell in Naples by Colin Dodgson for Vogue Italia August 2021

Top model Mona Tougaard wears YSL by Anthony Vaccarello on the August 2021 cover of Vogue Italia, an issue devoted to Naples, Italy. Francesca Burns styles Tougaard and model Jean Campbell in this two-part fashion story ‘Mona E Jean A Napoli’, lensed by Colin Dodgson [IG].

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Anyelina Rosa in Artisan Luxury by Peter Ash Lee for Vogue Mexico July 2021

Anyelina Rosa in Artisan Luxury by Peter Ash Lee for Vogue Mexico July 2021 AOC Fashion

Valentina Collado styles Dominican model Anyelina Rosa in folkloric, artisan luxury from Dior, Gabriela Hearst, Michael Kors Collection and more. Photographer Peter Ash Lee [IG] is behind the lens for Vogue Mexico and Latin America July 2021./ Hair by Conrad Dornan; makeup by Anna G de V

Thierno Sy's 'The Art of Being Serious' Glittering Opulence for Harper's Kazakhstan

Thierno Sy's 'The Art of Being Serious' Glittering Opulence for Harper's Kazakhstan AOC Fashion

Models Cheickna Sissoko, Florian DesBiendras and Masha Novoselova take a new spin on fashion opulence in ‘The Art of Being Serious’. Photographer Thierno Sy [IG] captures the trio styled by Raphaël Nicolas de Castro in maximum luxe from Alexandre Vauthier, Azzaro Paris, Chanel, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli, Giorgio Armani, Jean Paul Gaultier, Ronald van der Kemp, Shiaparelli, Valentino and more.

The uptown trio thrills in maximum decadence for Harper’s Bazaar Kazakhstan July 2021./ Hair by Simon Chossier; makeup by Marie Lanne

MacKenzie Scott's HBCU Giving Contrasts Starkly With Historical White Funders

MacKenzie Scott's HBCU Giving Contrasts Starkly With Historical White Funders AOC Living

Novelist and billionaire philanthropist MacKenzie Scott has so far given at least US$560 million to 23 historically Black colleges and universities. These donations are part of a bid she announced in 2019 to quickly dedicate most of her fortune to charity.

Scott’s gifts, including the $6 million she donated to Tougaloo College in Mississippi and the $45 million she gave North Carolina A&T University, vary in size but nearly all of the colleges and universities describe this funding as “historic.” For many, it was the largest single donation they had ever received from an individual donor.

Scott, previously married to Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, is not making a splash just because of the size of her donations. She has an unusually unrestrictive get-out-of-the-way approach.

“I gave each a contribution and encouraged them to spend it on whatever they believe best serves their efforts,” Scott wrote in a July 2020 blog post.

She sees the standard requirements that universities and other organizations report to funders on their progress as burdensome distractions. Instead of negotiating detailed agreements before making a gift, she works with a team of advisers to stealthily vet a wide array of nonprofits, colleges and universities from afar before surprising them with her unprecedented multimillion-dollar gifts that come without any strings attached.

Scott is also supporting students of color through donations to the United Negro College Fund and the Thurgood Marshall College Fund, which give HBCU students scholarships, and by supporting many other colleges and universities that enroll large numbers of minority students.

Her approach sharply contrasts with how many wealthy white donors have interacted with Black-serving nonprofits, including HBCUs, in the past. As a historian of philanthropy, I have studied the paternalism of white funders, including those who helped many of these schools open their doors.

HBCU Origins

The first HBCUs were founded in Northern states before the Civil War, including Cheyney and Lincoln universities in Pennsylvania and Wilberforce University in Ohio. After the war, most HBCUs were established in Southern states. These institutions were lifelines for Black Americans seeking higher education during decades of Jim Crow segregation that locked them out of other colleges and universities. (Disclosure: I earned my bachelor’s degree at Lincoln University.)

Although many white philanthropists made large gifts to these schools, their support was fraught with prejudice. Initially, white funders pushed for HBCUs to emphasize vocational training, then called “industrial education,” such as blacksmithing, printing and shoemaking, over more intellectual pursuits.

White philanthropists including Andrew Carnegie and John D. Rockefeller had poured millions from their fortunes into the proliferation of Black industrial schools by the early 20th century. The HBCUs Hampton University in Virginia and Tuskegee University in Alabama, which received donations from Scott, were leading models of industrial education for decades.

Black students during a class on the assembly and repair of telephones at Hampton Institute (1899). US Library of Congress.

The vocational curriculum at these schools was promoted as preparing Black students to be skilled laborers and academic teachers. During this era, however, most graduates worked as unskilled laborers or vocational teachers.

White Southerners overwhelmingly approved of this arrangement, which left many HBCU grads on the bottom rung of society rather than making them educated citizens. Emphasizing industrial education at HBCUs preserved the superior economic status of white Americans and the racist system of segregation. But African Americans’ educational aspirations required much more.

W.E.B. Du Bois, a prominent Black intellectual, was a leading critic of the funding HBCUs got from wealthy whites. He said: “Education is not and should not be a private philanthropy; it is a public service and whenever it merely becomes a gift of the rich it is in danger.”

Read on: MacKenzie Scott's HBCU Giving Contrasts Starkly With Historical White Funders AOC Blackness