Balmain’s [IG] Fall/Winter 2023 campaign borders on momentous. All five models are women of color — for a global luxury brand selling to all women. The five models Akuol Deng Atem, Anyier Anei, Naomi Apajok, Nyaduola Gabriel and Nyakong Chan are all women from war-torn South Sudan.

AOC spends much private, philosophical thinking and reading time on the topic of racial justice.

Without suggesting that all due bills are paid in the fashion industry, my sense is that we’re entering a different zone where models of color can be preferred.

Quite frankly, the clothes look fabulous on these models. I’ve privately considered this topic most often in the high-jewelry category, but this FW 2023 Balmain campaign speaks to the same elegance and beauty aesthetic expressed in luxury jewelry marketing.

The creative fusion of Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing [IG] and star photographer Rafael Pavarotti [IG] is sublime. Apparently this is their first outing together.

At a time when the demand for expert tailoring and couture craftsmanship is a key demand of the luxury customer buying clothes, not entry-level accessories or fragrance, Rafael creates a visual campaign that is undiluted, couture-inspired retro-modern sophistication to the max.

These images sit at the median line between Louis Vuitton and Dior-grade luxury. It may lean Dior in Raphael Pavarotti’s visual images aesthetic but more Vuitton in the actual clothes.

I’ve never said that about Balmain under Rousteing, because I doubt he saw that possibiity either.

We really see the clothes and not celebrities on a party bus. And the clothes are fabulous! And I had nothing against the party bus either. We simply have a truly-elevated fashion vision facing us in this campaign for many reasons.

If I were a fashion prof, this campaign would be in my classroom for a lot of discussion.

I’m honest in saying that before Anne writes anything she scans current headlines in Apple News and probably reads 3-4 other reviews of the clothes and the campaign.

In this case I dove extra-deep into the thinking of others.

Multiple people have commented on the visual, intellectual and downright spiritual synergy between Rousteing and Pavarotti, and Anne agrees. ‘Spiritual’ synchronocity is me alone, but several people I respect are wowed here by the collaboration of the two mega talents.

My instincts tell me that Rousteing sees Balmain with fresh eyes after the revitalization of Schiaparelli. The image above really inspired this thought, and after I looked at the images of these Black Beauty models working with artistic director Michail Pelet. These are old-school images with Pelet and the models.

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A post shared by Michail Pelêt (@michail_pelet)

Please understand my point. I’m not comparing the design results.

Rather, I believe that in considering Schiaparelli under artistic director Daniel Roseberry, Rousteing looked again at the 70-years of Balmain archives with fresh eyes.

Ignoring Schiaparelli is quite difficult if rebirth of an older label is always on one’s mind.

Given the importance of couture-inspired elegance to the high-end luxury customer, the results are top-drawer wonderful in every aspect.

Rounding out the core cast here, we have styling by Katie Lyall. Hair is by Eugene Souleiman and makeup by Chiao Li Hsu.