Top model Irina Shayk assumes her fierce woman “these boots are made for walking” persona in the desert sands of Joshua Tree, California. Shayk’s is one of multiple covers for i-D magazine’s Summer 2023 issue [IG].

Alastair McKimm styles Irina in an all Ann Demeulemeester fashion story from Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s first collection for the label. Drew Vickers [IG] is behind the lens to capture the fleeting moment of the young designer’s relationship with the label.

‘It girls ‘appeared to love the first collection, with Hunter Schafer wearing the show’s opening look, a long bias-cut white silk skirt and a singular extra long feather delicately covering the breasts, to the recent Vanity Fair Oscars Party./ Hair by Esther Langham; makeup by Yadim

“It’s my way of saying that after this first step I’ll be spreading my wings and then be able to express myself,” De Saint Sernin told Vogue’s Nicole Phelps of the Oscars party look.

Two months after his first show and after six months working in his position, Ludovic de Saint Sernin was out of a job at Ann Demeulemeester. Did he spread his wings like Icarus and fly too close to the sun?

Neither the young designer or Claudio Antonioli, who bought the Demeulemeester label in 2020 [and is close with Ann Demeulemeester, the woman] released a statement about the designer’s dismissal.

Claudio Antonioli’s Strong Fashion Industry Credentials

But unlike many investors who have no real fashion experience, Antonioli has industry skills and probably excellent instincts about where the Ann Demeulemeester brand should be headed.

In 2015, Claudio Antonioli co-founded the New Guards Group, acting as its president. Among the projects New Guards invested in with a majority interest were Off-White by Virgil Abloh and Palm Angels.

In 2019 Farfetch acquired 100% of New Guards Group for $675 million. In 2020, Antonioli bought the Antwerp-based brand Ann Demeulemeester.

Stefano Gallici Named New Creative Director of Ann Demeulemeester

Gallici was previously menswear designer for Ann Demeulemeester, joining in 2020, and worked previously with the Antonioli Group in 2019. "Stefano immediately demonstrated a strong creativity and a clear vision for Ann Demeulemeester," Antonioli said at the time, according to WWD.

"He represents the DNA of the brand with an eye to the future." Shortly thereafter, Antonioli bought Ann Demeulemeester, including its complete archive, the headquarters, its historic flagship in Antwerp, and its showroom space in Paris.

As evidenced in these images of Irina Shayk in the “new” Ann Demeulemeester envisioned by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, raw sexuality would be infused into the brand, previously associated with elegant tailoring and dark glamour. The real Anne Demeulemeester was headed for the trash heap [Anne’s words, not WWD’s].

Ann Demeulemeester was never known for “f#ck me hard, baby” designs, so one can imagine potential displeasure with her name being dragged through the mud like Lady Godiva. One also assumes that retailers — including Antonioli’s own stores — had an opportunity to weigh in on the first collection from Ludovic de Saint for Ann Demeulemeester with orders.