The Camargue Calls to Mona Tougaard, Lensed by Tyler Mitchell for i-D No.372
/Photographed by Tyler Mitchell and styled by Carlos Nazario, top model Mona Tougaard was captured in the surreal landscape of Salin d'Aigues-Mortes, in the Camargue, for the summer 2023 issue of i-D magazine. See the content lineup at i-D and Mona and Tyler’s story here.
Tougaard is joined by models Divine Mugisha and Craig Shimirimana, wearing Ann Demeulemeester, Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo, Gucci, Jacquemus, LOEWE, Maison Margiela Co-Ed, Marc Jacobs, Rick Owens, vintage Noir Kei Ninomiya, Poco Rabanne, Roksanda, Vaquera and more, all styled by Carlos Nazario. The vintage source is 20Age Archive [IG].
In this moment, I’m analyzing my own mind trying to understand why Mona, Tyler and Carlos’ fashion story has such a powerfully positive impact on me and Irina and Drew’s did not.
Anne of Carversville lives very close to the ancient symbolism of much of the artistic imagery featured here, and how stereotypes of women have evolved over the last 12,000 years.
My response to Irina’s “wet and wild” fashion story, shot in Joshua Tree, California was connected to 1] her walking nearly naked in a recent Cannes event where everyone else appearing in photos was wearing clothes. As a publicity stunt, I can’t even remember the jewelry brand she was wearing; and 2] specifically in Joshua Tree, Danielle Midenge shot Winnie Harlow recently with a vibe that is more akin to this one with Mona Tougaard and Tyler Mitchell in the south of France. I loved Daniella’s Winnie images and revere the ancient history of Joshua Tree.
i-D acknowledges that Demeulemeester and her former new designer don’t seem to live at all in the same territory on the fashion spectrum. It’s a very convoluted explanation by Ludovic of why he was perfect to interpret Ann’s vision.
Note: I also am very impressed by Robert Mapplethorpe. I still don’t get the shared synergy.
Ludovic liking Mapplethorpe; Demeulemeester having a close friendship with Patti Smith and often tributing Mapplethorpe does not translate “pouf” to these fashion looks.
Both Mapplethorpe and Demeulemeester are associated with sculptural volumes, not wenchwear.
Additionally, all the images connected to the career and name of Ann Demeulemeester, one of the original Antwerp Six that also included Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene, Dries Van Noten, Marina Yee and Walter Van Beirendonck.
There are multiple Demeulemeester pieces featured here as well, although they project a different attitude on Mona, with Tyler’s lens.
I hope that the brand paid handsomely for all this editorial coverage, because i-D needs the money.
Vice Media declared bankruptcy in mid-May, although there is a go-forward proposal. If for any reason, i-D is at risk as part of the deal, AOC will very aggressively help promote a fundraiser.
Honoring Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester was a pioneer in the important trend today of genderless dressing as an intellectual concept. I hated to see her name reduced to the “new and improved, raw sexuality” 2023 interpretation of her original brand concept by the now-dismissed designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
A View From the Fashion Trenches
In this difficult time of political warfare against women’s rights, LGBTQ rights, voting rights and book banning in America, Irina’s fashion story reinforced a wild and crazy woman stereotype that I’ve worked for decades to change.
So I apologize for being unnecessarily harsh in one line in particular, as a huge supporter of independent thought and creativity.
Looking at this fantastic, alternative Mona Tougaard-Tyler Mitchell fashion story in i-D’s 2023 summer issue helps me understand my resistance to Irina’s fashion story with Drew Vickers.
The best comparison I can make is the trans activist Rose Montoya who bared her breasts at the White House this week, putting President Biden in a very difficult situation publicly.
None of our individual actions exist without impact on larger communities when millions of eyes will see the controversial images.
Just as Irina Shayk is very committed to walking to her own truth with or without clothes on specifically. I am committed to writing my own truth on AOC. My comment could be edited, but I choose not to.
So I apologize again for being harsh yesterday in one sentence in particular, but seeing Mona and Tyler’s images for the same magazine helps me articulate and confirm my mindset about Irina and Drew’s fashion story in Joshua Tree — specifically under the Ann Demeulemeester name.
Welcome to the Camrague
The Camargue region of Southern France is known for its picturesque scenes of pink flamingos and white horses grazing on vast expanses of wetlands. Yet, one of the region's most intriguing phenomena is the appearance of blood-red lakes and rivers.
The striking crimson hue is a result of the concentration of salt and algae in the water. The Camargue spans an area of approximately 930 square miles, and much of this area is comprised of salt flats, marshes, and lagoons.
These unique landscapes provide a breeding ground for microorganisms such as Dunaliella salina, a type of algae that thrives in salty environments. It produces carotenoids, pigments that give the water a reddish-pink coloration. When the conditions are just right - high sunshine, high salt concentration and the right temperature - the lakes and waterways transform into a vibrant shade of red.
AOC will issue shortly a companion article about the Camargue. ~ Anne