Riccardo Tisci and Jared Buckhiester Make Workwear for Burberry Resort 2022/23 AOC Fashion

Riccardo Tisci [IG] collaborated with his old friend, New-York based artist Jared Buckhiester [IG] on the second edition of Burberry’s The Friends and Family series. Buckhiester contributed much labor and creative vision into the collection, styling the men’s and women’s collections, photographing the look book and fashion show presentations and infusing his thoughts into the design process.

Workwear influences have a strong presence in the Burberry Resort 2023, pre-spring collection. “Riccardo and I have a crossover in our love of workwear aesthetics. So much of my work as an artist draws upon the masculine archetype that inhabits these clothes. Immediately, I was interested in playing within this space, and it’s been a fruitful place to create from,” Buckhiester said.

From Tisci’s perspective, the two creatives see eye-to-eye on late ‘90s UK rave culture, which made a lasting impression on the designer since he studied at Central Saint Martens over 20 years ago.

Interview Magazine shared a major overview of Buckhiester’s work in August, 2021.

Writing about the new collection, Vogue’s Sarah Mower raises the issue of Burberry’s “border-free, non-nationalistic points of view.” The Guardian came close to raising the same issue, when Marco Gobbetti resigned in June 2021, to return to Italy as CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo.

“Burberry is Britain’s only major luxury fashion brand. This means that a Burberry catwalk or shop window is as much about selling an appealing image of modern Britain as it is about designing clothes. Backed by Gobbetti, Tisci has brought to Burberry the uncompromising, hard-edged aesthetic he pioneered during his previous job at Givenchy. . . . It is quite a stretch for a British luxury brand, where bread-and-butter sales come from investment coats that hang in corner offices and in the cloakrooms or expensive restaurants, and polo shirts worn in smart golf clubs.”

It’s fair to ask if The Guardian has a point, if we study Burberry revenues since 2005. Yes, we have COVID in 2020/21, but the line from 2019 to 2022 is dismal. If Christopher Bailey’s Burberry was beginning to plateau after a solid run in 2019, revenues have floundered ever since. LVMH doesn’t break out sales by luxury brand, but posts nearly a 50% increase over the same period.

Models Mariacarla Boscono, David Van Ess, Jack Nowell, Suza Przuli, Tommy Clasper star in the Burberry Resort 2023 Lookbook, captured and styled by Jared Buckhiester. Beauty is work of hair stylist Soichi Inagaki, makeup is by Anne Sophie Costa.