Left: Belt and fishnets Louis Vuitton

History of Fishnets

The term ‘fishnet,’ meaning a loosely woven fabric, was in use by the early 1880s, writes Valerie Steele for CR Fashion Book: A Hole In The Sole, but common wisdom dates the use of ‘fishnet stockings’ to 1933. Cancan dancers at the Moulin Rouge evoke evoke images of fishnets, but in reality the dancers wore opaque tights, says Steele. Even New Orleans prostitutes wore vertically striped stocking, not fishnets as a way of seducing men.

Wearing fishnets has always been associated with varying degrees of risqué, immodest and taboo behavior among women. It seems to me that the size of the hole communicates the desired message from bold to demure. Indeed, Fogal’s fine gauge, back seam fishnets are the epitome of refined raciness and self-assured, elegant femininity.

Fishnets and the Male Mind

Most historical writing about fishnets is processed through the lens of the male mind. As symbols of naughty girl sins and a willingness to walk on the wild side, fishnets can transform a woman’s body into an erotic object through veiling and unveiling. “Is not the most erotic portion of the body where the garment gapes?” asks Barthes in 1973′s The Pleasure of the Text. “There are no ‘erogenous zones’…; it is intermittence…which is erotic: the intermittence of skin flashing between two articles of clothing…between two edges…It is this flash itself which seduces…The staging of an appearance-as-disappearance.”

“The popularity of fetish objects is not biologically predetermined”, writes Steele,” but neither is it random. Male sexual arousal is highly visual … There is even some evidence that fishnets, like thigh-high boots, were often associated with ‘whip girls’ (dominatrices).”

Fishnets As Anti-social Fashion

Madonna by Terry Richardson for Harper’s Bazaar November 2013. Where is Steven Klein when she needs him!!!Returning to Steele:

It was only in the ’70s, with the rise of punk, that “trashy” black fishnets became a central signifier of subcultural deviance. Punks and goths gravitated to black fishnets, just as they adopted other items and materials from the fetishist’s wardrobe, such as corsets, latex, and leather. Torn fishnets added a note of implied violence. During the ’80s and ’90s, goths and club kids of both sexes wore fishnet tops and bodysuits, extending the diamond pattern to every inch of flesh. Simultaneously, Rei Kawakubo’s famous “lace” sweater, for Comme des Garçons, established that a garment full of holes could also look avant-garde. By the ’90s, a number of fashion and knitwear designers were creating fishnet stockings and loose-knit, nearly-nude dresses that explored themes of formlessness and the void. Shortly thereafter, within the fashion system as a whole, fishnet tights became normalized as “fashion,” that is, desired in much the same way that It bag or shoe is. Only traces of their risqué past survived.

Fishnets, Feminism and Female Empowerment

Within this context, the image of a strong, confident, liberated female emerges and comes to occupy space in so many fashion editorials. Will ‘50 Shades of Grey’ redefine the allure of this contemporary vision of the independent female in fishnets? Let’s hope not.

Personally, I prefer Madonna’s Joan of Arc defiant stance on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar and the necessity of women holding the ammo at times, much like the K-rd-s- women fighting I-IS in the Middle East. (Note, I don’t want all these ladies in fishnets coming up in this currently prominent search term on Google. Note also that we have featured those incredible women multiple times on AOC, but I won’t create a link.)

I suspect that no woman has had a greater effect on fishnets than Madonna. She has been photographed countless times — and given countless performances wearing fishnets as a sign of female power. Madonna — and contemporary fashion editorials — also use fishnets as a symbol of resistance to religious authority, but Madge leads the way.

Likewise Beyonce loves her fishnets but tends to gravitate to the color nude. This superstar does not seem to be performing to the male gaze. Rather, this strong voice for feminism and female empowerment uses fishnets to underscore her confident stance and self-control.

Consider that many female roller derby players wear fishnets as part of the uniform. And let’s not forget Jennifer Lopez rockin’ out in her fishnets.

Jennifer Lopez rockin’ in her fishnetsOf course, these celebs have taken their share of criticism for wearing fishnets at a certain age (Madonna) or venue such as London’s 2013 Chime for Change concert that supports girl’s and women’s empowerment in developing countries. But as you see at AOC, fishnets are a strong symbol in the battle for female empowerment. These lipstick liberal feminists, aka ladies who like their fishnets, also pony up countless millions of their own money on behalf of women.

Now I must find a great photo of women’s rights advocate and global humanist Angelina Jolie in her Mr. and Mrs. Smith fishnets. Mission accomplished!!

How about Christy Turlington, one of the most prominent advocates for maternal health worldwide? Here we have Turlington — named one of TIME magazine’s 100 most influential people in 2014 — in her fishnets, lensed by Inez & Vinoodh for Vogue Paris. I should note that Beyonce is also on the TIME 100 list.

How about AOC patron saint Shakira? Here she is being interviewed on Jimmy Fallon in March 2014.

I’m having a wild time here, writing about fishnets … so wild that I’m inspired to dig deeper into the topic. For today I leave you with 10 AOC fashion editorials of strong, sexy women wearing fishnets. Enjoy! ~ Anne