Creating a 21st Century Courreges

Adrien Da Maia, CEO of Courrèges since March 2020, wants the world to know that the fashion house forever associated with the Space Age is making a 21st century comeback. Yes, the challenge is major, but the French label has some very timely political and lifestyle forces behind it.

Courrèges also has access to money, owned now by Artemis, the Pinault family’s equity investment arm. For non-design folks reading this post, François Pinault founded Kering and Kering owns Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Saint Laurent.

Belgian designer Nicolas di Felice, a longtime collaborator of Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton joined Courrèges in September 2020, presenting his first collection in March, 2021. The two men sat down with WWD, explaining that they are starting from scratch but well aware of the history of the house and resale value of vintage Courrèges.

“Nicolas and I are approaching this almost like entrepreneurs. We’re writing a new story for this house,” Da Maia said. “It needs an artistic director who understands its heritage, but who is resolutely modern.”

The Power of One Word

Di Felice gave a major clue of his vision of the Courrèges future, with a film in December showing couples making out, and a New Year’s advertising campaign with the word ‘Courage’ on a white background.

Please note that AOC added the same vintage Courrèges image above — one used throughout this post — in honor of June Pride month, America’s Stonewall riots on June 28 and the 2 people murdered and 10 injured at the weekend Pride festival in Norway on June 25.

COURAGE

“Since its creation 60 years ago, optimism has been at the very heart of Courrèges,” says the House. “In 2021, they stand for hope and togetherness. They wish you love and courage for this new year. They painted courage on blank spaces, and printed courage on blank pages for new beginnings, hopes and dreams.”

Anne of Carversville does not throw superlatives around. That word COURAGE is utterly, totally brilliant, brilliant, brilliant beyond words . . . and so very needed in these times. It is deeply rooted in the history of Courrèges. and not only a word play.

America Under Stress

If you asked me a week ago if I would be writing about Courrèges this weekend, I would have said “why?” Call it destiny . . . or sharp minds running towards each other on the same track.

Fueled by fury over Friday’s US Supreme Court decision, I began reading and that’s when Courrèges and Anne came together in complete unity. And it’s in this instant — Sunday evening 11:25pm — that AOC is on the right track in understanding the label in 2022. After reading that multiple states in America tried to ban the Courrèges mini skirts, further investigation took me to the label’s rebellious history in Paris.

Courrèges Had An Edgy Side

All good creative directors go to the archives to understand the bones of a brand, its underpinnings. Di Felice delved into 10,000 pieces of women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, and more than 50,000 documents.

It wasn’t the clinical white dresses and go-go boots that spoke to him. Paris Fashion Week writes: “the opening credits of the 1973 political satire “Moi y’en a vouloir des sous,” showing models in bright Courrèges outfits hurling paving stones at riot police — a nod to the 1968 student protests in Paris.

In fact, there was a furious rebellion in America when the midi replaced the mini. Smart women loved a thigh-high slit. Add slick jersey boots and losing minis wasn’t totally the end of women’s liberation in fashion world’s determination to throw everything away and fill up out closets with the exact opposite styles.

The vinyl reedition jacket from Courrèges adds the perfect note of rebellion to the spring 2022 collection. The jacket is one of the most popular designs on the label and is perfect for casual wear and can be paired with jeans, denim, and casual shirts.

Courrèges Spring-Summer 2022

“André Courrèges really wanted to put his fashion in the streets,” Di Felice is quoted by Vogue, in his description of the new Courreges fashion pieces in this post. “Everybody talks about him—the future, space age. But space age was a trend. He was a passionate guy; he just wanted to dress women.” Like founder, like creative director. Shift dresses with sternum cutouts and halter bandeaus worn over hip-slung pants were the descendants of a 1976 dress.

Di Felice reminds Courreges lovers old and new that there is a strong design connection between the original designs and the arbiters of today, with their exposed abs. Consider the reality of a certain Italian luxury label that rode the miniskirt wave for the past six months.