Italian noblewoman turned French queen Catherine de Medici served as a profound and prolific muse for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring 2023 Christian Dior [IG] collection and now the campaign.

The stylistic emblems of the Court, such as corsets or crinolines, are structured with sportswear details. Trenches are reinvented, combining the volume of baroque costumes with the iconic Dior silhouette. Deepest black contrasts with the purity of white; a palette of soft colors sublimated by the lightness of long shirts and skirts gliding with grace. Celebrating the virtuosity of needlework, different techniques of embroidery and indeed crochet interact with raw, almost organic materials – like raffia – punctuating the looks with a touch of contemporary couture. A dream-like image of a winter garden, at once dark and scintillating, the floral prints convey the vitality of the vegetal world, embellishing dresses, pants and coats with new poetic force. An ode to the potency of fashion as an expression of feminine power.

Preparing for the season, Chiuri discovered a map of Paris in the Dior archives, one that put Avenue Montaigne at its center, even though the street doesn’t represent the actual center of the city.

In short order, the map became a focal print for the spring 2023 collection — a maverick toile de Jouy print that is a sophisticated addition to Dior’s already rich use of toile de Jouy.

The Christian Dior Spring 2023 Campaign celebrates femininity, power and grace, as explored through the eye and lens of frequent Dior photographer Brigitte Niedermair [IG].

Models include Carla Pereira, Freja Rothmann, Jen Thomson, Sherry Shi, and Stella Lucia.

The olive to black muted background in the images is a sophisticated backdrop to the lavish pleating, ruching, ruffles and textures that define the collection. Chiuri’s complex detailing is often lost in the fashion show set.

Viewing these images, the mix of product and background makes the clothes more intoxicating.

Artist Eva Jospin created the set for the show, inspired by baroque grottos at once shadowy and marvelous. A dreamy landscape evoking architecture both natural and imaginary, embodying interiority and mystery, reinforcing the contradictions frequently at play in Chiuri’s designs.

Old World unique artistry and needlework inspire the Dior spring 2023 collection, and raffia is used to maximum advantage. Beautiful raffia coats are decorated with delicate flowers and birds, also in play on the accessories. The embroidery work is spectacular.

Chiuri sought to create a bewitching strangeness in the collection, with the models’ runway passage into the heart of the show’s fantastical grotto. The result is breathtaking, sophisticated beauty and craftsmanship.