Anne of Carversville dove into the archives today, fetching images from our beloved Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first fashion story as Creative Director at Dior. The Vogue shoot by Patrick Demarchelier was titled ‘Not Your Mother’s Dior’, and it appeared in the December 2016 issue. Models included Lineisy Montero, Fernanda Ly, Grace Hartzel, Taylor Hill, Grace Elizabeth, and Rachele Regini (Maria Grazia's daughter) AND Maria Grazia herself.

Vogue’s Luke Leitch is great therapy for me and today was no exception. His piece on today’s announcement that Maria Grazia Chiuri is now officially at Fendi is titled “Why We Should All Be Fendi-ists: Maria Grazia Chiuri Comes Home”.

Leitch addresses the volume of snark we saw today about Chiuri’s appointment — with more grace than I possess in this moment. I urge you to read his wonderful piece which is a great reality check about Chiuri’s talent through the mind of a fashion journalist who examines the business side of creativity from the perspective of paying clients. Note that Chiuri will also be over Fendi Men.

The Chiuri Announcement

The Fendi announcement first quoted LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault:

“Maria Grazia Chiuri is one of the greatest creative talents in fashion today, and I am delighted that she has chosen to return to Fendi to continue expressing her creativity within the LVMH group, after sharing her bold vision of fashion. Surrounded by the Fendi teams and in a city that is dear to her, I am convinced that Maria Grazia will contribute to the artistic renewal and future success of the Maison, while perpetuating its unique heritage." says Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH Group.

Fendi’s new Chairman and CEO Ramon Ros concisely summarized the expanding role of the LVMH Creative Directors at select maisons:

I’m thrilled to welcome Maria Grazia into the team. The role of a creative director is no longer to simply design beautiful clothes but to curate a culture and hold a mirror to the world we live in. Her talent and vision will be instrumental in fortifying Fendi’s heritage, shaping the future talent in the house and deepening our commitment to Italian craftsmanship.”

Mentioning Pope Leo in the title here was no joke. That man is going to shake things up. And the Andrea Bocelli - Pharrell Williams Grace of the World Vatican City 2025 Concert was an epic event.

I myself had 20 people watching and weeping together. Culture creation is key in our luxury brands present and future as noted by Ramon Ros, and Louis Vuitton has stood so proudly for Pharrell. I am grateful. Thank you.

The Maria Grazia Chiuri Bond is a Serious One for Women

Given Chiuri’s performance at Dior measured on financial growth, a huge number of clients embrace her feminist perspective. Let the haters pillory her online.

When all these changes were set in motion with Jonathan Anderson coming to Dior Men, it made no sense to me — and also no sense to Lauren Sherman, formerly from BoF and now at Puck News — that LVMH wouldn’t protect existing Dior clients that might not like the new Jonathan Anderson collections.

Based on the recent Anderson show, I became triple passionate about the Fendi appointment for Chiuri. Simply stated, former US Vice President Kamala Harris will move with Chiuri. I do not see her as an Anderson client.

Especially when it appears that Anderson will abandon Dior’s strong pro-women point of view.

I made a simple little survey today with a small group of 25-35 year old professional women. Only four of them could respond on such short notice, but their responses matched my own reaction to Natalie Portman’s new images in WWD. I asked them for a one-word response to her photo.

There is no confidence in this image for a woman [me] who believes that clothes should empower us in this global moment where women’s rights are under a full assault in many countries. Certainly they are under assault in America.

Natalie Portman is literally shrinking into her 44-year-old star self.

So there. 1] It doesn’t matter what I think; and 2] maybe Anderson himself will agree that women of strength are a good client image. He never had this challenge at LOEWE.

The Chiuri appointment means more to many of us than you understand. Losing her would have been a low blow, and I am grateful for your confidence in her talents as a perfect fit for Fendi.

Best always, Anne