Designer Phoebe Philo [IG] releases Collection E, a series of lookbook images captured by Alasdair McLellan [IG]. Phoebe Philo models include Amanda Parker, Athiec Geng, Binx Walton, Dionne Poolo, Esme Cornelius, Jacqui Hooper, Lina Zhang, Noor Khan, Saar Mansvelt Beck and Valery Sergeeva. / Hair by Kim Rance; makeup by Mel Arter

Collection E is available for purchase in June 2026.There are many excellent closeups on McLellan’s IG.

With a Boom Start, Phoebe Philo Overtakes JW Anderson in Second Year of LVMH Backing Both Brands

Phoebe Philo’s namesake luxury brand is experiencing rapid growth, with 2025 revenue forecasted to surpass $41 million, nearly tripling 2024 results. While expanding, the brand operates at a loss, recording a $31.8 million operating loss in 2024 as it invests in growth. The brand, backed by LVMH, is pivoting to a hybrid digital-wholesale model.

Phoebe Philo is not like the JW Anderson, another LVMH investment. That business has never shown a profit except last year, and it was an accounting item connected to restructuring the LVMH loan that created the appearance of profit.

Yet the WWD headline read: “JW Anderson Returns to Profit in 2024”. WWD noted that the profit was tied to the LVMH investment.

Just now, I asked G [Gemini] what year did JW Anderson have a profit? It never has, to the best of my knowledge. Correct. Apart from the paper profit, JW Anderson actually produced a financial loss of $7.5 million in 2024.

The JW Anderson volume is estimated at $36-37 million with a 5% revenue decline, based on 2024 financial filings. LVMH first invested in Jonathan Anderson in 2013.

Anderson actually had a major revenue loss of almost 25% at Loewe in the same period, one that dwarfed Chiuri’s estimated 8-9% revenue loss at Dior.

Are the ladies dropping the gauntlet in 2026? Perhaps. We just want the business facts reported, which seems to very difficult in several cases.

Back to Chiuri, knowing the weight Louis Vuitton and Dior carry, contributing 70% of LVMH profits, Chiuri covered most of her 2024 losses with masterful profit management in her collection. Translated, she saw the problem coming. As a result Chiuri’s bottom line was nearly flat — not great, but technically significantly better than the Sun King’s at Loewe.

The Phoebe Philo growth rate is a single year, after launching its first collection on October 30, 2023. From the standpoint of return on investment, Phoebe Philo is already bigger than JW Anderson in just two years.

Are the ladies dropping the gauntlet in 2026? Perhaps. We just want the business facts reported, which seems to very difficult in several cases. Anne insists that we all do better in remembering that facts are different than hype.

Knowing the weight Louis Vuitton and Dior carry, contributing 70% of LVMH profits, Chiuri covered most of her 2024 losses with masterful profit management in her collection. Translated, she saw the problem coming. As a result Chiuri’s bottom line was nearly flat — not great, but technically significantly better than the Sun King’s at Loewe.

Phoebe Philo Goes Global

Phoebe Philo will open her first store on London’s Mount Street neighborhood, which is actually a family neighborhood. Philo will be across the street from The Row, with other neighbors Erdem, Simone Rocha and Moynat nearby.

The brand has a New York City outpost at Bergdorf Goodman; and Maxfield and Neiman Marcus in Los Angeles. In Europe, she can be found at 10 Corso Como in Milan and Dover Street Market in London and Paris.

Phoebe Philo ships from her online store into most parts of the world. In Asia she has wholesale partners including Dover Street Market Ginza and at Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo.

In China, the multibrand concept store SND opened a new flagship in Guangzhou last October. Phoebe Philo joined Carven, Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander and Khaite. Located on the third floor with Chinese brands like Into The East, Samuel Gui Yang, and Uma Wang, this SND is one of several critical data points in China’s goal of growing its own stable of luxury brands.

On the main floor of SND, one finds Acne Studio, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, and Martine Rose. Read more about SND at WWD.

The brand is managing high growth, while also controlling production in limited quantities — maintaining a very difficult balance with Phoebe Philo’s growth rate. Countless small brands on fire have succumbed to overproduction. There are many advantages that come with a LVMH investment. Highest-level access to this kind of business savvy guidance and expertise really doesn’t have a price tag attached to it.

It’s reasonable to say that Phoebe Philo is over-performing and really has no idea of her full business potential. AOC says “Go Phoebe.”