Fendi's First Look Under Chiuri in W Magazine China February 2026
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Fendi and Fur
On the subject of Chiuri’s approach to fur, PETA isn’t happy, but Chiuri stood her ground, describing her project as a move toward “emotional sustainability” and “functionality”.
Acknowledging the shifting global attitudes toward the material, she framed its inclusion as a way to honor the house’s heritage while adapting to modern values. Key details of her approach include:
Upcycled Fur: Every piece of real fur in the collection was upcycled from Fendi's existing storerooms and archives. This included fur scarves, coat collars, and patchwork jackets.
"Echo of Love" Service: Chiuri launched a new atelier program called Echo of Love. This service allows clients to bring in their own heirloom furs—such as those inherited from family—to be remade into new, modern garments rather than being sent to a landfill.
Sensuality and Feeling: She explained that for Fendi, "fur and feeling are the same," describing the material as something soft and light that is fundamentally linked to sensuality.
Practicality and Heritage: Chiuri noted that her guiding principle was "practicality,"which she viewed as a "very female approach to design" inspired by the five founding Fendi sisters.
Fendi is also deeply involved in a strategic partnership with LVMH, the Imperial College London and Central Saint Martins, in search for a plastic-free fur that feels soft and sensual. The research focuses on using keratin [the same protein found in natural hair and fur] as the primary building block.
The LVMH’s deputy director of environmental development, Alexandre Capelli, noted that while they aren't abandoning natural fur yet, they see this biotechnology as the "ultimate goal" for a circular, animal-free future.
Keratin is also being targeted as an alternative to silk. Actually, we have lots of new info on sustainability initiatives in materials and will issue a new post soon.
Happy in Shanghai
As for Maria Grazia Chiuri, those who love her are happy she’s back. We’re hearing a positive response in Shanghai with increased Fendi private appointments. Not runaway momentum, mind you. That’s still only Chanel territory.
A: I asked a friend if she’s forgiven for her past cultural mini-transgressions.
HS: “Oh, yes, Anne. She’s forgiven, and look what happened to her beloved book totes. You know Anderson eliminated the personalization on the totes, right? Is he crazy or what.”
A: My understanding is that the personalization got in the way of the Sun King’s book design. So it went kaput.
He’s a genius and we must work hard to support him and give the Sun King a big space in which to work. He will redefine life on earth as we know it. Anderson knows best — even the books we should read.
He says many of us to not have the capacity to understand the brilliance of his work and we will fight him. But eventually we will “see the light’ is the expression in American English.
HS: “You know, Anne, that RedNote calls the yellow and red ’Dracula’ tote straight out of McDonald’s. That bag is trash, Anne. I can’t believe it carries the Dior name. You are too easy on him”
