We share the entire fashion story ‘As the World Turns’, completing a visual narrative of a celebratory moment in which the February 2022 issue of British Vogue features nine first-generation, African origins models in a first-ever, fashion cover statement.

Models include Abény Nhial, Adut Akech, Akon Changkou, Amar Akway, Anok Yai, Janet Jumbo, Majesty Amare, Maty Fall, and Nyagua Ruea,

British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful styled the shoot and originated the concept behind the fashion story, surely in collaboration with photographer Rafael Pavarotti [IG] . / Hair by Virginie Moreira; makeup by Ammy Drammeh

We Have Relative Silence About the Covers

When I first wrote about the covers last week, I knew about the brewing controversy over the perceived ‘darkening’ of models on the covers.

After addressing some of the absurd accusations about Rafael Pavarotti’s competency as a photographer and Edward’s as an EIC, I erased my comments in the original post — because I was furious over the criticism. When furious, I’m not editorially even-handed.

My own preference was to let the British Vogue February 2022 covers stand in all their African models beauty, knowing that the entire fashion story would allow me to speak later. Now that we see the entire fashion story ‘As the World Turns’, I do believe the symbolism, intention and nuance behind the artistic project is clearer.

In terms of the larger community, people aren’t quite sure what to say about the artwork. Expressing myself in words has never been a handicap for me, so I will revisit my thinking in an online world devoid of nuance, living in the moment and with minimal knowledge of history.

Evaluate the Criticism

Long ago, AOC learned to count shares, likes and comments to avoid highlighting a tweet or two that really have no traction in the larger population. It’s a fake controversy in terms of numbers talking/participating, but such tweets or digital posts make a good headline.

These controversial tweets are created to give exposure to the commenter and not the topic. They are almost always lacking in context or any demonstrated analytic ability or reputation for fashion criticism.

One must be careful not to overestimate impact of the writer and always evaluate the source of the criticism. We have a certain fashion forum that takes itself very seriously on being followed by fashion movers and shakers — like Bernard Arnault himself is surely trolling them, LOL.

Reality is that about 15 people, including moderators, are responsible for my estimated 80% of the comments. They comment every day all day with each other — suggesting to me that they have little to do with their lives.

Bottom line, there is no huge controversy around the African models British Vogue covers. My biggest impression now, after surveying the subject in-depth days later, is that people might have opinions and thoughts to share, but it’s better to keep quiet.

My Choice Words

If asked to use one word to describe the British Vogue African models covers it would be “confrontation”. If asked for two words, I would answer “proud confrontation”. Asked for another two words that add content to the first two words, I would say “reality check”.

Asked for seven words and that’s the end of my input, my response would be “too deep for most people to understand.”

Pushing Against Colorism

A couple days prior to the British Vogue covers release, I expressed my own utter astonishment about the size of the skin whitening market. In her January 2022 Vogue India cover story, Zinnia Kumar spoke of her efforts against colourism.

AOC has written about colorism several times over the years, and I assumed that we were making some progress in decreasing demand for these hideous, identity-denying, sometimes dangerous ingredients so-called beauty products.

My jaw dropped when Kumar shared the stat that “the global skin-bleaching market is set to climb from US$8.6 billion to US$13.7 billion by 2025. As long as skin bleaches are sold in any form, capitalistic colourism will exist.”

It’s obvious that African people and its models are a wide range of skin colors. But darkness prevails in some parts of Africa more than others.

Ignoring colonial history and the rapes of women of color by light-skinned men, science tells us that people from tropical regions living close to the equator generally have darker skin. Variation in human skin color is closely related to geographic variation in solar radiation. You can read the abstract of this paper on skin color issued by the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America for a basic understanding of the science.

In celebrating the beauty of these African models, Edward Enninful said that he was elevating the entire continent of Africa with these images. I agree with him and also Rafael Pavarotti, who addressed the models specifically, saying: “This is a celebration of women, of matriarchy and of the beauty of Black women.” “They are the past, the present, and the future.”

AOC is totally engaged in the social justice movement and fighting the global rise of white nationalism, including in America. Science also documents the truth of Pavarotti’s assertion.

While a giant mixed-skin-colors love fest is how I want to see the global human population and especially among thought leaders, many white nationalists would kill me for my views. I’ve learned not to predict the future, but birth rates aren’t on the side of white people.

Power is an entirely different topic, and I believe that the entire world would be better off if white people learned how to share it. But that’s a topic for another day.

In this moment, AOC will close the dialogue, supporting Edward and Pavarotti, who made a political statement along with this treasure trove of African models beauty. Not all creatives love it, but for sure, it’s not about a lack of proper photographic lighting, people.

Anne’s Admission

Initially, I also stumbled for about two seconds when I saw the covers. Then I asked myself “what’s really going on here?” I move easily in the world of symbolism, shadows and the unspoken word, so it took another two seconds to get the main message. No words were read.

Like I said, understanding ‘nuance’ is not a gift bestowed on many people today of every skin color variation — and perhaps it never was. ~ Anne