Rafael Pavarotti Captures an African Models First for British Vogue February 2022
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The February 2022 covers of British Vogue are jaw-droppers. When I saw them, a proud joy rushed over my entire being. At the same time, I understood that the covers are deliberately dark and filled with artistic nuance. We are invited to look closely into the images. They are a chorus of joyful and confident African women asking “Do you see me now?”
Abény Nhial, Adut Akech, Akon Changkou, Amar Akway, Anok Yai, Janet Jumbo, Majesty Amare, Maty Fall, and Nyagua Ruea come together on the cover as a new African sorority, photographed by Rafael Pavarotti.
They are not quick look covers but visual statements about the journey we are on, one in its 5th year on Anne of Carversville. My dedication to models of color has existed over my entire career and with AOC, we can easily go into the archives from 2012 and find Black models.
But the undeniable reality of a new formation of Black beauty with its origins in Africa began with Adut (Mar. 2017) and Anok (Jan 2018). OMG, I whispered to myself; we are finally moving forward. Unlike most, I watched this topic like a hawk, adding to its momentum in any way possible.
So many of the models were coming to the industry from Sudan — now South Sudan — via refugee resettlement in Australia and England. To a lesser degree, the new African models also came from America.
A decade ago my involvement in Khartoum’s treatment of women was well known in Sudan’s government, and I gradually became banned across the region. A woman was not stoned to death because of AOC — the white woman big headache from America.
We drove them crazy in Khartoum, and I will move mountains for these African models.
BV notes that in recent years, the models are arriving directly from Africa: Ghana, Nigeria and across the entire continent. This new momentum is created by specific industry professionals and digital media — the ease of finding new talent has changed dramatically.
British Vogue EIC and European Editorial Director Edward Enninful explains just how proud he is of the February 2022 issue:
They may all be global citizens these days, but every one of these brilliant models is of African descent. As is tradition, the February issue brings readers Vogue’s first distillation of the new collections, and as any fashion watcher will have seen at the season’s shows, the rise of the African model felt, at last, like a permanent revolution. No longer just one or two dark-skinned girls mingled backstage, but a host of top models took a meaningful, substantial and equal place among the most successful women working in fashion today. It means so much to me to see it. Of course, there is a question of race here. It would be inconceivable for me, as a British Ghanaian, to feel anything but personal joy at that. But the rise of African representation in modelling is not only about symbolism, nor even simple beauty standards. It is about the elevation of a continent. It is about economics, access, culture, perspective, difference and wonder. And it is here to stay.
Watching this Black model rise “like a hawk”, my radar is also set at the highest level for shifting sands signaling its demise. Writers in this new British Vogue remind us that fashion is cyclical — and that is true. I’ve written those words myself.
We have Hispanic and Latina women waiting in the wings in America, and also our indigenous population of women waiting to be seen and heard. And it’s not only about models but photographers, stylists and all the people who create the final products.
Reality is, however, that in our post-George Floyd murder America, there is no turning back now. I sense that England is in a similar understanding. When Edward speaks that Africa is here to stay, I agree. I’m not sure this would be the case in a non-digital world.
What I feel strongly about is the large number of luxury brands who are activating this change. Many luxury brands customers prefer to be associated with a multicultural, creative culture.
With all the political divisions in America, many of us understand that we must pick a side. What is America going to be in the future? What are our values? Brands don’t want to force customers into a negative space. But we can hold high the light of progressive values and try to quietly persuade customers — who are also voters — to embrace the values we hold dear.
AOC is eager to see all the content in the February 2022 issue of British Vogue. I so love that we have Edward solidly embedded at British Vogue and now with a voice across Europe. He understands in a way that so many fashionistas do not, the expectations of today’s media consumers. Granted that it’s a broad spectrum of subdivisions, but the appetite is strong for fashion media that tells bigger human stories. ~ Anne
Entire British Vogue fashion story ‘As the World Turns’ and Anne’s commentary on the images themselves: Africa's Black Beauty in a New World by Rafael Pavarotti for Vogue UK February 2022 AOC Fashion
