2007-2019 Daily excerpts of new fashion, culture, lifestyle, activism and women's news posts. Continues on current AOC Daily.
Kendall Jenner Fronts 'A New Beginning' Lensed by Hugo Comte for W Magazine Korea October 2019
Kendall Jenner goes boho in three covers for W Korea’s October 2019 issue. Stylist Woo Lee chooses vibrant, eclectic looks from Gucci, Missoni, Mulberry and more for images by Hugo Comte./ Hair by Franco Gobbi; makeup by Mathias van Hooff
Cameron McCool Eyes A Sensual Alexandra Agoston in S(he) Mode for Número #207
Model Alexandra Agoston simmers in androgynous sensuality styled by Paul Sinclaire. Photographer Cameron McCool captures both of Agoston’s s(he) sides in ‘Fenetre Sur Cour’ for Número #207 October 2019./ Hair by Shinya Nakagawa; makeup by Courtney Perkins
Gianluca Fontana Captures Alice Sofia in Cold Weather Casual Looks for Vogue Russia October 2019
Model Alice Sofia is styled by Olga Gvozdeva in horse-friendly casual separates lensed by Gianluca Fontana for Vogue Russia October 2019.
Demi Moore Shares Real Life Stories with WSJ Magazine in Images by Cass Bird
Actor Demi Moore covers the October 2019 issue of WSJ Magazine. Paul Cavaco styles Moore, now 56, in designs from Alexander Wang, Eres, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and more for images by Cass Bird. / Makeup by Jo Strettell; hair by Teddy Charles
Demi Moore is the author of a new book ‘Inside Out’, co-written with Ariel Levy. “I wanted it to be a good book, but I didn’t feel like my skill set lent itself to be able to do that,” Moore says about enlisting Levy, an American staff writer at The New Yorker magazine since 2008.
For perspective, Ariel Levy is also the author of ‘The Rules Do Not Apply’ and the ‘Female Chauvinist Pigs: Women and the Rise of Raunch Culture’. Her New Yorker profiles include the South African runner Caster Semenya, the artist Catherine Opie, the swimmer Diana Nyad, and Edith Windsor, the plaintiff in the Supreme Court case that brought down the Defense of Marriage Act.
Nikki Tissen Wears the Season's 'Colors' Lensed by Leonardo Scotti for Muse Magazine FW 2019
One year ago Netherlands-bred new girl model Nikki Tissen was faced with a major decision. Prada’s Spring 2019 show presented a concrete decision to Tissen and five other girls scheduled to make a major runway run — a life-changing opportunity in the fashion world. Guido Palau wanted to cut off her hair.
“I’ve had very long hair for the past 10 years, so [this cut] was really shocking at first,” said [then] 18-year-old Tissen, who 24 hours prior had a mane of chest-grazing dark blonde hair. “But now, I think it looks really nice. I’ll probably keep it like this for a while and see if it looks good as it grows out.” And the up-and-coming-runway star, who was exclusive to Prada for the spring 2019 season never looked back.
“This kind of cut creates a new character,” Palau explained backstage at the Prada show. “A tough girl that’s kind of punk, but also a bit soft.”
Nikki Tissen appears in Muse Magazine’s fall 2019 issue in ‘Colors’, styled by Stephanie Kheriakian in images by Leonardo Scotti./ Hair by Marco Braca; makeup by Mary Cesardi
Sara Sampaio Wears Fall 2019 Denim Lensed by Victor Demarchelier for ELLE Italy September 2019
Top model and Victoria’s Secret Angel Sara Sampaio fronts a western-inspired denim trends editorial, styled by Laura Seganti, who swears that every fall 2019 shoe trend from sneakers to stilettos works with denim. Photographer Victor Demarchelier is in the studio for ELLE Italy’s September 14, 2019.
Luna Bijl Poses as 'Bottega Bitch' by Paul Wetherell for POP Magazine AW 2019
Model Luna Bijl is styled by Stephanie Waknine in ‘Bottega Bitch’, lensed by Paul Wetherell for POP Magazine Autumn/Winter 2019. / Hair by Neil Moodie; makeup by Janeen Witherspoon
Kylie Jenner and Oliver Rousteing Launch KYLIE X BALMAIN @kyliecosmetics collection
Kylie Jenner dropped news that she was named artistic director of makeup for Friday’s Paris Fashion Week Balmain spring-summer 2020 fashion show. The world’s youngest self-made billionaire has also created a capsule collection that includes a nine-pan eye shadow palette, matte lip kit and high gloss. Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing is a family friend and equally excited about the new partnership. The collab is Karlie’s first forray into a luxury fashion show.
The campaign photo features Jenner and Rousteing (above) posing in matching white ensembles in front of a lavender, holographic background. It’s sleek, modern but ultra glam with a caption that reads: “Paris is always a good idea 🇫🇷 surprise… KYLIE X BALMAIN @kyliecosmetics collection launching this Friday 9.27 on KylieCosmetics.com.”
Jenner previously wore Balmain to the 2016 Met Gala and the 2019 Grammy Awards. The young business tycoon was enchanted with the light pink shade of her dress for the Grammys, which ultimately inspired the packaging of the Kylie x Balmain makeup collection, which features Parisian street art. The eyeshadow names channel fashion week: Close the Show, Model Type, Attitude, Main Event, City of Love, Night Out, Top Model, Catwalk and PFW. The line will include new Parisian-inspired shades of fan-favorite products like High Gloss ($16) and the Matte Lip Kit ($29), as well as a brand-new, limited-edition KyShadow x Balmain Eye Shadow Palette ($42). You can also purchase the products in bundles for $38 and $75.
The collaboration is Balmain's second venture into beauty, following a lipstick line with L’Oréal Paris in 2017.
Kylie Jenner wore Balmain Couture to 2019 Grammy Awards
Meghan Collison Wears 'Sharp Edges' Fall 2019 Coats, Jackets +Suits by Marcin Tyszka
Model Meghan Collison is styled by Kerstin Schneider in ‘Sharp Edges’, lensed by Marcin Tyszka for Harper’s Bazaar Taiwan September 2019./ Hair & makeup by Anna Stykala
Natasha Poly Poses in Fall 2019 Boho Fashion Trends by Giampaolo Sgura for Sunday Times Style UK
Top model Natasha Poly covers the Sunday Times Style Magazine Magazine UK September 22 issue. Verity Parker styles Poly in Gucci, Saint Laurent and more boho knits and square patterns that nod the youthful optimism of the late ‘60s and early ‘70s. Photographer Giampaolo Sgura captures the fall fashion trends called ‘Run Free’ in this nostalgic country romp.
Alexandra Micu Takes Paris in Fall2019 Fashion Trends by Olivia Frolich for Harper's Bazaar Spain
Model Alexandra Micu covers the October 2019 issue of Harper’s Bazaar Spain. Anna Tovar styles Alexandra in chic, tailored ensembles perfect for a Paris stroll lensed by Olivia Frolich. / Hair by Olivier Lebrun; makeup by Tiina Roivainen
Isabeli Fontana Covers L'Officiel Italy September 2019 by Ricardo Abrahao
Isabeli Fontana strikes a note of Joan Collins abundance and Monaco glam for the cover of L’Officiel Italy’s September 2019 issue. Marcell Maia styles Isabeli in folds and feathers in images by Ricardo Abrahao. / Beauty by Rodrigo Costa
Zoe Ghertner Captures Selena Forrest in 'The Botany of Desire' for W Magazine #5 2019
Model Selena Forrest is styled by Marie Chaix in ‘The Botany of Desire’, lensed by Zoe Ghertner for W Magazine #5 2019./ Hair by Tamara McNaughton; makeup by Fara Homidi
Primrose Archer Joins 'Caped Crusaders' Fall 2019 Fashion Trend by Theo Sion for W Magazine 5
Model Primrose Archer is styled by Max Permain in ‘Caped Crusaders’, lensed by Theo Sion for W Magazine #5 2019./ Hair by Luke Hersheson; makeup by Lynsey Alexander
David Yarrow Eyes Nyamuoch Girwath in 'Call of the Wild' for Harper's Bazaar US October 2019
South Sudanese refugee, Omaha, Nebraska-raised model Nyamuoch Girwath is styled by Patrick Mackie in Chanel, Dior, Gucci, McQueen, Prada, Yves St Laurent and more Photographer David Yarrow captures Nyamuoch on location in Botswana for US Harper’s Bazaar October 2019./ Hair & makeup by Orli Meiri
Yarrow has an upcoming book focused on the perilous position of the Kalahari bushmen in a modern world. He is also an ambassador for the Kevin Richardson Foundation, a new organization devoted to saving the world’s lion population which has declined from 450,000 to an estimated 15,000-20,000 in the wild. In the last 20 years, that population has decreased by 43%.
AOC will write a separate post on the Bushmen, who are the indigenous peoples of southern Africa. Largely hunter-gatherers, their territory spans several nations including Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa with small numbers in Angola and Zimbabwe. The Bushmen, also known as the San or Saan peoples, have called the region home for tens of thousands of years.Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa with small numbers in Angola and Zimbabwe.
As we prepare our own story about the Bushmen, you can learn more about them on Survival International.
Alexandra Agoston Suits Up in Menswear with Diamonds by Steven Pan for InStyle October
Model Alexandra Agoston is styled by Katie Mossman in ‘Suits You’, a modern mix of casual menswear and diamonds. Steven Pan is behind the lens for InStyle October 2019. AOC is very familiar with the highly-praised sustainability practices of two of the brands featured in the editorial: Tiffany & Co and Chopard.
Before investing in a piece of fine jewelry, do you want to understand its pedigree? Today’s inquiring minds want to know. It’s time to investigate the practices of other brands featured in ‘Suits You’.
Some Fashion Luxury Brands Are Just Buying Carbon Neutral Status -- Not Gabriela Hearst
Carbon Neutral Buzz
The new luxury fashion buzz word in the sustainability dialogue is “carbon neutral”. Long-time sustainable brand Gabriela Hearst delivered a carbon-neutral Spring 2020 runway show in New York, and Gucci announced to considerable fanfare that “it had achieved 100 percent carbon neutrality in its supply chain and operations.” How? By buying carbon offsets writes Vogue Business. Both Burberry in London and Gucci in Milan hosted carbon neutral Spring 2020 shows, again by buying carbon offsets.
Rachel Cernansky notes that the numbers add up on paper but buying carbon credits isn’t a substitute for actually reducing emissions, and ideally they follow — not lead — actual carbon-reduction improvements in the brand’s design, sales, marketing and manufacturing and manufacturing processes.
Gabriela Hearst Sets New Standards for NYFW
Gabriela Hearst is a leader in the sustainability sector. No one tops Stella McCartney, but Hearst makes a strong showing. Vogue Business shares innovations taken by Hearst that surely aren’t happening at either Gucci or Burberry.
The designer booked only local models (see photo above) for her SS20 New York show, and this new policy will become permanent. Hearst also cut out sample production for her supply chain and — this is a biggie — the designer is shipping product via boat, resulting in a longer 10-week delivery window.
New York’s CFDA website drills down even deeper on Gabriela Hearst’s initiatives for NYFW. She teamed up with her production company Bureau Betak to track every element of the show including insuring that the food used for catering to the models used only local and seasonal foodstuffs and the models’ hair was done without using electricity.
Unable to cut down on the emissions from private cars, Ubers, and taxis delivering guests to her September 10 show, Hearst gave guests a scarf featuring a print of animals that’ve have recently gone extinct. The Gabriella Hearst brand donated funds in guests names to Our Children’s Trust, the nonprofit organization based in Oregon that has filed lawsuits on behalf of youth plaintiffs against governments, arguing that they are infringing on the children’s rights to a stable climate system. Read on in Fashion & Brands.
Ghana’s Copyright Law for Folklore Hampers Cultural Growth
Ghana has a rich folkloric tradition that includes Adinkra symbols, Kente cloth, traditional festivals, music and storytelling. Perhaps one of Ghana’s best known folk characters is Ananse, the spider god and trickster, after whom the Ghanaian storytelling tradition Anansesem is named.
Ghana also has some of the world’s most restrictive laws on the use of its folklore. The country’s 2005 Copyright Act defines folklore as “the literary, artistic and scientific expressions belonging to the cultural heritage of Ghana which are created, preserved and developed by ethnic communities of Ghana or by an unidentified Ghanaian author”.
This suggests that the legislation, which is an update of a 1985 law, applies equally to traditional works where the author is unknown and new works derived from folklore where the author is known.
The rights in these works are “vested in the President on behalf of and in trust for the people of the republic”. These rights are also deemed to exist in perpetuity. This means that works which qualify as folkloric will never fall into the public domain – and will never be free to use.
The 1985 Act only restricted use of Ghana’s folklore by foreigners. The 2005 Act extended this to Ghanaian nationals. In principle, this means that a Ghanaian artist wishing to use Ananse stories, or a musician who wants to rework old folk songs or musical rhythms must first seek approval from the National Folklore Board and pay an undisclosed fee.
This is deeply problematic.
Stephan Lisowski Eyes Veroniek Gielkens + Aaron Shandel for Harper's Bazaar Russia October 2019
Models Veroniek Gielkens & Aaron Shandel deliver a sultry fashion editorial styled by Ekaterina Tabakova. Photographer Stephan Lisowski captures the luxurious sensuality for Harper’s Bazaar Russia October 2019./ Hair & makeup by Yulia Tochilova
Coco Rocha Amps Up Menswear Lensed by Eniko Szucs for ELLE Croatia October 2019
Top model Coco Rocha is styled by Arnold Milfort in hi-voltage menswear lensed by Eniko Szucs for ELLE Croatia October 2019./ Hair by Ledora Francis; makeup by Renee Garnes
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