Activist Liya Kebede on Lemlem, Financing Nonprofits for How To Spend It Magazine

Activist Liya Kebede on Lemlem, Financing Nonprofits for How To Spend It Magazine

AOC has shared numerous articles about top model Liya Kebede and her ethical brand Lemlem, produced in Ethiopia and launched in 2007. Lemlem means “to bloom” and “flourish” in Amharic, writes How To Spend It Magazine’s Alice Cavanagh about her interview with Kebede in Paris.

Looking for fresh insights in Kebede’s How To Spend It interview, we note a discussion about the growing subject of diversity in the fashion industry. Reflecting on the Spring 2020 shows, the most diverse shows ever held in September and October, Estee Lauder’s first black spokesmodel smiles, “Honestly, it is a lot more colourful now.” She continues:

“When I started working, there could only be one black person on every runway. That’s kind of insane. It was accepted; no one even questioned it.” Certainly, I [interviewer Alice Cavanagh} offer, we might have social media to thank for this: fashion no longer exists in a bubble, and brands and people of influence are being held accountable for everything from casting choices to greenwashing.

“I don’t buy the whole ‘You’re bad and I’m good’ thing… sometimes you screw up,” cautions Kebede. “That whole thing scares me a bit, to be honest. It propagates so much hate and intolerance.”

Kim Kardashian's SKIMMS Cozy Collection Begs a Sustainable Fabric Edition

Kim Kardashian's SKIMMS Cozy Collection Begs a Sustainable Fabric Edition

Mega-everything woman Kim Kardashian launches a Cozy Collection component to her SKIMS collection. Available in sizes XXS to 5X, the intro collection features four luxe lounge pieces made from breathable boucle yarn: a Knit Robe ($128), Knit Pants ($88), Knit Shorts ($58), and Knit Tank ($52). The modern, pared-down essentials are available in four tonal colorways: Bone, Dusk, Cocoa and Onyx.

Launched on Monday, many pieces in the collection are already sold out.

Dioriviera Cruise 2020 Collection Update Pops-Up in Cortina d'Ampezzo

Dior's Cruise 2020 Popup in Cortina d'Ampezzo with Luxury Retailer Franz Kraler

Dior leaves seaside resorts behind, heading to Cortina d’Ampezzo launching a pop-up collab with Italian luxury retailer Franz Kraler. The focus is Dior’s Dioriviera Cruise 2020 Collection with an update. Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri adds a range of bright colors and bold graphics to her blue mood cruise collection inspired by North Africa.

Models Adesuwa Aighewi, Jiali Zhao and Ruth Bell bring the capsule to life, showcasing four new colors including green, fuchsia, yellow and orange. Photographer Nadine Ijewere captures the trio in the final weeks before Cortina and the sunny beaches of St. Bart’s.

As African Art Thrives, Museums Grapple With Legacy of Colonialism

TOP: GUS CASELY-HAYFORD. COURTESY OF THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON.. BOTTOM: THE BENIN ROYAL MUSEUM WILL HOUSE MANY OF THE BRONZES LOOTED BY THE BRITISH AND SPREAD ACROSS MULTIPLE MUSEUMS AND INDIVIDUAL COLLECTIONS.

As African Art Thrives, Museums Grapple With Legacy of Colonialism

In 1897, 1,200 British troops captured and burned Benin City. It marked the end of independence for the Kingdom of Benin, which was in the modern-day Edo state in southern Nigeria. In addition to razing the city, British troops looted thousands of pieces of priceless and culturally significant art, known as the Benin bronzes.

More than a century later, the museums that house these pieces are grappling with the legacy of colonialism. Leaders in Africa have continued their call to get the Benin bronzes and other works of art taken by colonists back, at the same time as new museums open up across Africa. (In 2017, the Smithsonian's National Museum of African Art organized its first traveling exhibition in Africa showcasing the work of the Nigerian photographer Chief S. O. Alonge. The show, catalogue and educational program were organized and produced in partnership with Nigeria's national museum in Benin City. Alonge was the official photographer to the Royal Court of Benin.)

The British Museum, which has the largest collection of Benin bronzes, is in communication with Nigeria about returning the bronzes. They’re waiting for the completion of the Benin Royal Museum, a project planned for Benin City. Edo state officials recently tapped architect David Adjaye, who designed the National Museum of African American History and Culture, to do a feasibility study on the site.

Eva Herzigova Joins Giorgio Armani by Anton Corbijn for Sunday Times Style UK

Eva Herzigova Joins Giorgio Armani by Anton Corbijn for Sunday Times Style UK

Top model Eva Herzigova joins legendary designer Giorgio Armani for ‘The Art of Armani’, styled by Margherita Moro. Anton Corbijn captures the duo for The Sunday Times Style Magazine UK, on the eve of last Monday night’s British Fashion Awards. In the company of Cate Blanchett and Julia Roberts, Giorgio Armani received a lifetime achievement award. Read the meaty interview.

Halima Aden Talks Producing Refugee Film, Covering Glass Magazine Winter 2019.20

Halima Aden Talks Producing Refugee Film, Covering Glass Magazine Winter 2019.20

Somali-American, hijab-wearing Miss Minnesota 2016 model and refugee activist Halima Aden covers the winter issue of Glass Magazine quarterly. Bobette Cohn styles Halima for high-fashion drama images by Bojana Tatarska./ Makeup by Stevie Huynh

Aden was recently on CBS News to discuss her role as executive producer on a film about a young refugee. Watch the video.

Earth Mother Stella McCartney Covers Vogue US January 2019 Creative Forces Tribute

Since her 1995 Central Saint Martins graduation show, Stella McCartney’s brand has embodied an urgent desire to end animal cruelty in the fashion industry. Fake furs were mainstream when Stella began her fashion climb, but the only glues available were animal-based. “I imagine Vikings sitting around a pot, boiling down the last bones of the elk that they skinned for the fur,” says McCartney. “And I think, Wow—we’re still there.” Of course, we now also know the toll fake fur takes on the environment.

Her coldly-realistic assessment of fashion’s conscience — or lack of it — inspired Stella McCartney to walk her fashion talk with as few comprises as possible. That decision has positioned her at the pinnacle of intelligent design forces sweeping through the fashion industry, before it is too late to save ourselves, our planet and our children’s futures.

Today McCartney uses renewable energy where it’s available for both her stores and offices. Her commitment to cruelty-free fashion and sustainability is fast becoming the industry norm, influencing product development and sourcing decisions at Armani, Chanel, Gucci, Michael Kors, Prada and more on the topic of fur. “I’m hugely relieved,” says McCartney, “but I’m actually astounded that it’s taken so long.”

Stella sold a non-majority stake in her company to LVMH earlier in 2019, a relationship that puts her in a key advisory role to Chairman Bernard Arnault for the entire LVMH stable of luxury brands.

The designer covers the January 2020 issue of Vogue, lensed by Annie Leibovitz. Stella holds her four children (clockwise in cover from top left), Bailey, Miller, Beckett, and Reileyis. The entire family wears Stella McCartney, styled by Tonne Goodman. Hamish Bowles conducts the interview. Read on at Vogue

Gabriela Hearst Supports Save the Children in Yemen through December 9, 2019

We might as well make it Angelina Jolie Day at Anne of Carversville. I just went to the Gabriela Hearst website searching for any additional info on the designer’s campaign to support Save the Children’s relief efforts in Yemen. Who greets me but Angelina, AOC’s founding muse who we profiled this morning, wearing a Gabriela Hearst Crowther Dress.

UNHCR Special Envoy Angelina Jolie called for an urgent response to the crisis in Yemen a year ago. More than 12 million children in Yemen are in need of humanitarian assistance. Save the Children is providing food, cash vouchers, critical healthcare services, education and protection to children and families affected by this crisis.

A new analysis by the global humanitarian organization reveals tens of thousands of children are one step away from famine. An estimated 17,000 children living in hard to reach areas in Yemen – cut off by war – are at increased risk of severe acute malnutrition and death if issues with aid access are not urgently resolved.

“Save the Children is working around the clock every day to give the children of Yemen the support they desperately need. I visited the war-torn country earlier this year, and Yemeni children are truly bearing the brunt of this conflict. They suffer from malnutrition and other illnesses, and are missing out on school and childhood,” said Carolyn Miles, Save the Children CEO. “We are incredibly grateful to Gabriela Hearst for making Save the Children’s efforts in Yemen the focus of this campaign. As we enter the season of giving, this is a unique and meaningful way for shoppers to give back and make an impact on the lives of children growing up in the world’s largest humanitarian crisis.”

From December 2nd to December 9th, 100% percent of net proceeds across all products in Gabriela Hearst flagship stores (985 Madison Avenue, New York and 59 Brook Street, London) and Gabrielahearst.com will be donated to Save the Children to support child nutrition and relief efforts in war-torn Yemen.

All Gabriela Hearst handbags, which are usually only available via request only, will be click-to-buy on Gabrielahearst.com

Angelina Jolie Covers Harper's Bazaar US December 2019-January 2020, Lensed by Solve Sundsbo

Angelina Jolie Covers Harper's Bazaar US December 2019-January 2020, Lensed by Solve Sundsbo

Angelina Jolie covers Harper’s Bazaar US holiday December 2019-January 2020 issue, styled by Patrick Mackie. The ‘Maleficent: Mistress of Evil’ costar who will play in Marvel’s ‘The Eternals’, release date Nov. 6, 2020, is lensed by Sølve Sundsbø in ‘A Prayer for the Wild at Heart’./ Hair by Malcolm Edwards; makeup by Val Garland

In their introduction to their end of one decade, launch of the 2020s interview, Harper’s does a quick survey of Angelina Jolie — the founding muse of AnneofCarversville.com. I remember well reading Angelina’s Esquire interview on a warm Sunday morning in Carversville. It was a moment that changed my own trajectory, returning me to a life of activism in a post-September 2001 world.

Considering Angelina’s thoughts about beheaded by ISIS WSJ reporter Daniel Pearl — in a moment of pure impulse — AOC was born.

Harper’s introduction to Angelina’s interview — answers delivered digitally — makes me proud to know we have covered every step of issues that matter deeply to Angelina Jolie. Read those articles in Angelina’s widget and other Winning Women members at AOC. ~ Anne

Naomi Campbell Lensed by Campbell Addy in Nosheen Iqbal Interview

Naomi Campbell Lensed by Campbell Addy in Nosheen Iqbal Interview

Supermodel Naomi Campbell covers the November 16, 2019 issue of The Fashion for The Guardian, styled by Jenke Ahmed Tailly in Nina Ricci, Ports 1961, Sacai, and Thom Browne NY. Campbell Eddy captures Noami weeks before Monday night’s British Fashion Awards 2019, where the superstar became tearful receiving her honor as the first woman of color to receive the prestigious Fashion Icon prize.

Campbell was interviewed by Nosheen Iqbal for The Guardian. Prepared to meet the full force of Naomi’s “legendary froideur”, Iqbal is disarmed at The Dorchester. Naomi dismisses her publicist, and opens dialogue with compliments to the writer:

“I wanted to meet you in person. I’ve watched and read what you’ve done in the past. I like that you’re very honest and seem transparent and straightforward. . . . I like what you wrote when you defended me, without me having to speak.”

Iqbal responds, underscoring the reality of fashion industry racism that has infuriated many of us for years. Let me digress.

Adut Akech Wins 'Model of the Year 2019' at British Fashion Awards in London

Adut Akech winning Model of the Year, getting a big hug from Naomi Campbell at Monday night’s British Fashion Awards 2019. © Darren Gerrish via British Vogue

In the words of British Vogue, “Adut Akech brought down the house”, winning Model Of The Year at Monday night’s British Fashion Awards celebration in London. Adut wore a voluminous Valentino gown that featured a ruffled midriff and a thigh-high split. Of course Adut used her speech to highlight the need for the fashion industry to continue its high-gear march towards far greater diversity.

The South Sudanese model is at the vanguard among the huge wave of creatives of color across the fashion industry, a trend that impacts photographers, stylists and countless other categories of vibrant talent virtually ignored by fashion industry leaders.

Adut Akech also brought her voice and status as a refugee born in then Sudan, now South Sudan, whose family migrated to Adelaide, Australia in an effort to remake their lives.

“It is important for all of us to remember that someone like me winning this award is a rarity,” she pointed out after expressing her gratitude for the statuette. “This is for the young women and men who found representation and validation in my work. I want them to never be afraid of dreaming big like I once did. To them, I say this: Whatever it is you want to do, whether it’s modelling or acting or medicine, you should never doubt yourself. Don’t let the world convince you that it is not possible.”

Akech appeared on the prestigious September 2019 covers of British Vogue, Vogue Germany and Vogue Japan. The British Vogue issue was guest edited by Her Royal Highness Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle and featured women who are ‘Voices of Change’.

At a time when ‘refugee models’ are making their marks across the fashion and luxury market industry, Adut stands high on the list of beautiful young women enjoying their own mercurial success in an industry that has long shunned them.

The Aussie beauty’s activism and seizure of every limelight moment to discuss issues that matter to her is unrelenting, and in her own words: “I Will Always Be a Refugee”. As the model reminded us in her article ‘Refugees Are Just Like Everybody Else’ for British Vogue’s September 2019 issue:

“You don’t wake up thinking, I’m going to be a refugee. The only difference between a refugee and someone who grew up in the Western world is that we were forced out of our own country, out of our homes, because of fear – not out of choice.”

TIME Magazine honored Adut Akech on their 2019 TIME 100 Next list. Follow Adut Akech’s archives @ AOC.

Adut Akech’s September 2019 Vogue Covers

Adut Akech, Alton Mason Channel Malick Sidibe Images for Vogue Australia December 2019

Fresh off her London honors as Britain’s Fashion Awards ‘Model of the Year 2019’, Adut Akech and Arizona-born Alton Mason are in total sync. The duo stars in ‘Where You Lead, I Will Follow, styled by Jillian Davison as an ode to Malick Sidibe’s “spontaneous photographs of youths at dances in Mali in the 1960s”. (Note, Sidibe died in 2016.) Photographer Nathaniel Goldberg captures the rhythm and chemistry for Vogue Australia’s December 2019 60th anniversary issue. / Hair by Lloyd Simmonds; makeup by Marc Lopez

Björk by Harley Weir Dazed Confused Magazine Winter 2019.20

Björk Deep Think with Llewelyn Vaughan-Lee by Harley Weir Dazed Confused Magazine

Icelandic singer-songwriter Björk covers the Winter 2019 issue of Dazed & Confused, styled by Robbie Spencer in images by Harley Weir.

The Cannabis Industry Is Not as Green as You'd Think | Let's Talk Rat Poison

The Cannabis Industry Is Not as Green as You'd Think | Let's Talk Rat Poison

Even as the legal cannabis industry booms, the black market persists with competitive prices and a lack of red tape on its side. As Jodi Helmer reports for JSTOR Daily, illegal growers set up an estimated 14,000 grow sites on federal and private lands in 2018—and that was just in Humboldt County, California.

Illegal cannabis growing operations pose a huge threat to the ecosystems of public forests, Eric Westervelt reports for NPR. Without any sort of regulations, illegal growers can use banned insecticides and other chemicals to shield their crops from pests. Using these substances excessively can have devastating consequences for nearby wildlife and water supply.

At one illegal growing site in California’s Shasta-Trinity National Forest, ecologists and law enforcement agents found evidence of toxicants like Bromethalin, a rat poison, and carbofuran, an insecticide that is banned by the Environmental Protection Agency. Speaking about carbofuran, wildlife ecologist Greta Wengert of the Integral Ecology Research Center (IERC) tells NPR, "It is incredibly toxic. A quarter teaspoon could kill a 600-pound black bear. So obviously just a tiny amount can kill a human. It remains in an ecosystem for a long period of time."

MarteMei van Haaster in Jonathan Anderson by Viviane Sassen for AnOther FW 2019

MarteMei van Haaster in Jonathan Anderson by Viviane Sassen for AnOther FW 2019

Marte Mei van Haaster is styled by Katie Shillingford in the FW2019 issue of AnOther Magazine. Viviane Sassen captures the fashion artistry from Jonathan Anderson’s fall collection. Susannah Frankel profiles the 35-year-old Northern Irishman who wears two design hats.

On his own label, Jonathan Anderson is renown for his experimenting, innovative approach to design, his creativity financed by LVMH’s minority position in the label. Anderson, a product of London College of Fashion, has been Creative Director at LVMH label Loewe since September 2013.

Said to be pleased with the label’s financial growth, Bernard Arnault champions Anderson’s approach of strengthening Loewe’s values of craft, tradition and technique. The socially-conscious designer has partnered with Doutzen Kroes’ initiative #KnotOnMyPlanet in support of The Elephant Crisis Fund in special projects at Loewe. Read the entire Jonathan Anderson fashion article overview at AnOher Magazine.

LVMH Announces Acquisition of Tiffany & Co for $16.2 Billion | Biggest Deal Ever in Luxury

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury company, led by Bernard Arnault, founder, chairman and largest shareholder of LVMH, announced on Monday that his proposed acquisition of Tiffany & Co has been accepted. The $16.2 billion deal makes it the largest ever in the luxury sector and represents an increase over LVMH’s opening bid of $14.5 billion.

“Tiffany is an American icon and was on the list of brands for a long time we thought was a good potential match,” Mr. Arnault told the New York Times in a telephone interview from Paris.

“We expect this to be the starting gun for a further round of industry consolidation in the luxury sector over the next 12 to 18 months, with the significant polarization we continue to see between the stronger and weaker brands,” said Swetha Ramachandran, an investment manager at GAM Global Luxury Brands Fund.

The acquisition marks the second major move into the American luxury market by LVMH this year. In a major innovation move, LVMH created a new luxury house Fenty, with Rihanna earlier this year. That major launch was also accompanied by the LVMH announced acquisition of Belmond luxury travel group late in 2018, along with a significant investment in Stella McCartney, that left the designer with majority control. McCartney also became a chief adviser to LVMH on sustainability issues.

Arnault stressed that taking Tiffany & Co into the LVMH family will remove the brand from the stress of Wall Street’s demands for consecutive quarter profits.

“We will focus on building long-term desirability,” he said. “When you are an independent brand listed on the American stock exchange, your goal has to be the next quarter profit. We can free them to have a different state of mind in the company.”

When LVMH bought Belmond late last year, AOC asked if Bernard Arnault will save the elephants. Given Tiffany & Co’s ongoing. commitment to elephant conservation, through superwoman Doutzen Kroes’ Knot On My Planet foundation, we will up the ante on the question. There’s a synergy building here for elephants and Africa, and I have a very good feeling about it. LOEWE, another LVMH luxury brand, is also involved with Doutzen and Knot On My Planet. Watch this space. Belmond is deeply invested in sustainable safaris in Africa. ~ Anne

Related:

Willy Vanderperre Captures Indya Moore for AnOther Magazine FW 2019

Willy Vanderperre Captures Indya Moore for AnOther Magazine FW 2019

American actor, activist and model Indya Moore of ‘Pose’ fame is styled by Olivier Rizzo in an all Louis Vuitton fashion story for AnOther Magazine’s Fall/Winter 2019 issue. Willy Vanderperre captures Moore, who was honored this fall with inclusion in the TIME100. / Makeup by Kanako Takase; hair by Hos Hounkpatin

Read AnOther Magazine’s: Cover Story: ‘Indya Moore, an Icon for a New Era’.

Tory Burch Glamour Visionary Woman of the Year Acceptance Speech, Holiday Campaign

Anna Wintour and Tory Birch at 2019 Glamour Woman of the Year Awards

Tory Burch Holiday 2019 Campaign

Tina Barney Captures Amber, Fei Fei, Franci + Tory Burch Holiday 2019

Photographer Tina Barney captures models Amber Valletta, Fei Fei Sun, Franci Santos, Julia Betyakova and Nora Attal for Tory Burch Holiday 2019. If you’re not familiar with Tina Barney’s photography, ArtNet shares an introduction.

Tory Burch: Glamour Woman of the Year

“It’s amazing isn’t it, how difficult it can be for a woman or a girl to simply be ambitious?” “The Walking Dead’ and ‘Black Panther’ star Danai Gurira said as she presented designer Tory Burch with her 2019 Glamour Woman of the Year Visionary award on Monday, November 11. “To have her eye on the prize without apology. How many times do we diminish ourselves, our voices, our abilities, even our opportunities, to stay comfortably within the status quo? To not ruffle any feathers or draw attention unto ourselves? How much greatness has been lost through this pervasive type of oppression?”

She continued, “Tory is unapologetic with her brand. The bold way she adorns women with class, flair, and fun all at once, and with the way she is working to leave no woman or girl behind. To popularize feminine ambition. From the millions of dollars she invests in female entrepreneurs to her awareness campaigns, arming people with education on the grotesque gender gap that still exists in so many ways. Tory is a champion for change, using the fruits of her ambition to nurture and empower the ambition of others.”

In her acceptance speech, Tory Burch share a founding story that resonates deeply today. ““When I was first launching the company, I presented my business plan to a group of men; they were the investors. I told them I was going to build a business that focused on purpose. They very concretely said to never mention the words business and social responsibility in the same sentence,” Burch said in her speech. “Of course, that only furthered my resolve. What they called charity work, I called a business plan.” Read the rest of Tory Burch’s speech at Glamour Magazine.

Carolyn Maloney (D-NY) Wins Chair of House Oversight Committee

Carolyn Maloney (D-N.Y.), flanked by Democratic Caucus Chair Rep. Hakeem Jeffries (D-N.Y.) and Foreign Relations Committee Chairman Eliot Engel (D-N.Y.) Photo: Chip Somodevilla via Axios

Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney (D-NY) will become the first woman to chair the House Oversight Committee, winning the important assignment by defeating Gerry Connolly (D-VA) with 133 votes against Connolly’s 86.

Maloney has been acting as the committee's chair since the Oct. 17 death of Rep. Elijah Cummings (D-Md.). Her gavel will immediately thrust the Congresswoman into the limelight, with the Oversight’s key role in the impeachment inquiry into President Donald Trump.

Rep. Jim Jordan, (R-OH) is known to be a particularly abrasive, heavy-hammer, take-no-prisoners Republican leader on the committee, prompting Connolly to run on the quiet platform that dealing with Jordan is a man’s job.

Given his uninformed, pure badgering performance in this week’s intelligence committee impeachment hearings, Maloney’s supporters dismissed the argument as sexist. Supporters insisted that it was key to have a female voice alongside the two other white men leading the Democrats’ impeachment inquiry.

Maloney secured endorsements from top Democrats like House Majority Whip Jim Clyburn (D-S.C.), who is also the most powerful black member in Congress. Her promise to focus on important issues beyond investigating Trump was welcome news for moderates “squeezed by the ongoing impeachment furor”, writes Politico.

Frida Kahlo 'Portrait of a Lady in White' Sells for $5.8 Million at Christies Latin America

Frida Kahlo, Portrait of a Lady in White (c. 1929). Courtesy of Christie's Images Ltd. via ArtNet

Frida Kahlo’s ‘Portrait of a Lady in White’ (c. 1929) carried a pre-auction estimate of $3 -$5 million. The painting sold Wednesday at Christie’s Latin American art sale in New York for more than $5.8 million, making it the second-highest price ever paid for a Frida Kahlo painting. Her ‘Dos Desnudos en el Bosque (La Tierra Misma)’ (1939) sold for over $8 million at Christie’s in 2016

A visitor looks at “Portrait of a Lady in White” at the Frida Kahlo Retrospective at Martin-Gropius-Bau on April 29, 2010 in Berlin. Courtesy of Sean Gallup via ArtNet.

The painting has been maintained in private collections, most recently the collection of Dr. Helga Prignitz-Poda, a Kahlo scholar. One of Kahlo’s few oil paintings, “Recent research suggests that the subject of the portrait is Kahlo’s high school friend Elena Boder, a Russian émigré and an influential doctor. It was previously believed that the sitter was Kahlo’s American friend Dorothy Brown Fox.” writes Forbes.