Winston Churchill considered La Mamounia and Marrakech the most unforgettable place on earth. The world-famous balcony that bathed his creative sensitivity in glorious light and perfumed gardens, was a temporary home to Churchill five times, including a 1943 visit he made with President Roosevelt after a conference in Casablanca.

“Sunset over the Atlas Mountains”, 1935 oil painting by Winston ChurchillAlfred Hitchcock shot scenes from “The Man Who Knew Too Much” in the La Mamounia’s lobby, which had lost some of its grandeur when I spent several nights in the Andalusian style palace a decade ago. I was somewhat underwhelmed with the hotel, after reading about La Mamounia’s glorious reputation and its recommendation by my friend Sabbia Rosa in Paris.

By every measure we loved our time in Marrakech. Our dinner at Le Yacout was one of the most memorable nights of my life, even if I have no recollection of what I ate for dinner.

The sensuality, mystery and intense spirituality of Marrakech took unforgettable possession of me that night, as my partner and I followed our young guide through the shuttered night maze of the Medina.

With no landmarks, street signs or shop windows to anchor my sense of place, I was powerfully aware of the need to trust this stranger to deliver us to Le Yacout as promised. Accustomed to being in charge of my life, I submitted graciously to his lead — but with a moment or two of conscious concern over having no control over the pace or direction of my footsteps.

Returning several hours later — following the same young man out of the Medina after saying goodbye to the magic of lanterns, the dining pool, an Arabic jazz combo, and the breeze I still feel on my face —  our driver from La Mamounia was waiting to return us to one of the world’s most iconic hotels.

It seems that I might not recognize the hotel, now that the jet set crowd christened the $176 million restoration of La Mamounia over Thanksgiving. High-end glamour is arriving in Marrakech, with the development of several extravagant properties, associated with global luxury hotels.