In Searching for New Chloé Creative Director, Friedman Challenges Richemont to Think Different

Natacha Ramsay-Levi is leaving Chloé after four years as creative director. In a statement, Ramsay-Levi said: “I have had the great privilege, with the support of Chloé’s teams, to express my own creativity, while refocusing the maison on Gaby Aghion’s commitment to intellectual freedom and to fundamental values that unite all of us. I want to thank Chloé for this opportunity. I am equally thankful for their support in my decision to leave my position.”

Ramsay-Levi suggests that the COVID-19 pandemic has inspired a period of reflection about her life and work. “Over the last months of health, social, and economic turmoil, I have thought about the changes I want to see in our industry and how to better align them with my own creative, intellectual, and emotional values. It is this reflection that makes me consider my future differently and desire to pursue new opportunities.”

Riccardo Bellini, who was named Chloé’s CEO in October of last year, thanked her for her hard work and commitment. “Natacha has made a great contribution to Chloé, bringing at its center the intelligence and sense of mission that were defined by our founder. She is an important member of that proud tradition of women who have designed at Chloé. Her creative leadership and her vision have written a powerful and meaningful chapter in our story.”

Writing for the New York Times, Vanessa Friedman suggests that the cool-French-girl chic that Natacha Ramsay-Levi brought to Chloé proved … well, perhaps a bit too cool. We gulped to think that another woman designer was leaving a major fashion industry creative job. We, too, said “oh, no, not another white guy taking over.”

Friedman challenges Chloé’s owners Richemont “to look beyond the usual parameters of the fashion world toward talent in countries or areas further afield; to engage with designers who bring different backgrounds and experiences to the table. To not revert to the safety of a proven name, or a familiar profile, or someone trained in the rhythms of the old system, but rather to embrace someone willing to question all received orthodoxies and conventions.”

AOC’s first response is “great words of wisdom, Vanessa, but owners have to fit into the new paradigm also. AND Chloé has an unusually rigid brand DNA”, one that you suggest Ramsay-Levi couldn’t evolve.

Of course, If we refocus our attention to the Far East, the territory becomes richer in possibility. Or a person of colour with Asian heritage. Reflecting, Chloé’s founder Gaby Aghion was an Egyptian Jew who married into a wealthy Jewish family of Italian origin. Is a new vision for Chloé buried in the pages of Vogue Arabia? One name comes to mind immediately. ~ Anne

Update 12/7/2020: AOC didn’t know and the NYTimes didn’t mention that in his first interview since joining Chloe, CEO Riccardo Bellini told WWD in early November that a better understanding of  Chloé’s roots, including a strong commitment to women’s freedom and progress “inspired him to retool the brand’s business model to one that is purpose-driven, community-based and accountable, in addition to being highly creative.”

“We’re moving from a phase of collections to a phase of connections. Doing collections is not enough anymore. How you connect with your audience, how you nurture that connection, how you grow that connection is a continuous process of exploration today,” he said. “What a brand stands for, its beliefs and values, will become as relevant as products and aesthetics.”

On Bellini’s “to do” list was seeking B Corp certification for its social and environmental performance. In fact, Bellini has spoken much more directly to issues of sustainability that discussed in major media — and to the empowerment of girl’s education.

With this knowledge in hand, it’s seems to be totally obvious then that Gabriela Hearst is a splendid fit in her role announced today as Chloé’s new Creative Director,