Supermodel Paloma Elsesser covers the May 19, 2023 issue of D Repubblica, styled in a wide range of sensual, dark beauty looks by Laetitia Gimenez Adam.

Luxury labels including Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana, Maison Alaia, Niccolò Pasqualetti, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello and more join forces with Paloma in designs that do not contain the female body.

Photographer Pablo Di Prima [IG] is in the studio./ Hair by Matt Benns; makeup by Marcelo Gutierrez

Paloma Elsesser is waging a war against fatphobia, saying:

"It's absurd that such a large percentage of people are excluded. Who can think that fashion only interests thin people?". "I want to get the message across that even if you're imperfect, you can have the life you want," she explains. And here she talks about the days on set when you don't have "that" size, the hypocrisies of the system and that time at the age of 8 in Gap's dressing room ...

Adding Extended Sizes Is Great But Are They Profitable?

My only point is that the totality of this topic is much more complex than we want to embrace.

Paloma is great at reducing the battle to one of representation — that it’s the obligation of brands to make all women feel good about themselves. From Paloma’s perspective, if I care about fashion — and even if I never have the income to afford your clothes — you have a moral obligation to help me imagine myself in your clothes. You do that for me in your marketing images and by having my sizes in your store if I walk through the door.

Because if I can’t see it — I can’t be it.

D Repubblica makes the argument

“If you fall within the lucky percentage, it's easy to forget what it means to feel represented: it's easy to find yourself in a film, a cover, a role, a job, and take it for granted. The non-standard bodies of Western beauty have long been too visible – and too little. In many ways it's still the same today, but there are people like Paloma Elsesser who aren't just questioning the system: they're changing it.”

The Failure of BodEquality

Non-luxury retailing is having major struggles with keeping their businesses solvent. But in the case of BodEquality, a new challenge I’ve not read before, has entered the convo. Brands should invest years of losing money to earn the trust of potential plus-size customers. I will also add, even if you are trying to achieve new sustainability goals that require major financial investment.

Nadia Boujarwah, CEO and founder of plus-size apparel site and styling service Dia & Co, told Modern Retail:

“The truth is, when you make an investment that large, you expect to see large returns and quick returns, and neither of those things are realistic expectations in the short run,” Boujarwah explained. “I think what most brands and retailers underestimate is how long it can take to re-earn the trust of plus customers who haven’t been able to shop at your brand, historically.”

Let’s Get Real! Anne Has an Idea

It would be better for brands and leaders like Paloma to have more in-depth, honest conversations around this issue. Because if Old Navy can’t introduce a successful plus-size brand in America, where 70% of American women are size 14 or larger, everyone is talking past each other.

'The New Supers' Paloma, Jill, and Precious by Inez & Vinoodh for British Vogue April 2023 AOC Fashion

Our dear Edward Enninful, EIC of British Vogue, has very strong opinions on this topic. Let him take his three new supers he has crowned and his very intelligent self and become a “flying squad of larger-bodies intelligence” that is deeply-embedded in three test case brands.

Don’t just demand representation. Do something constructive.

Edward’s flying squad — and he as well — must be deeply informed [they can sign NDAs] about those three businesses. Let this squad understand all the issues involved here. Give them the sales statistics. Get out the performance charts. Help them understand SKU productivity.

Are the brands all at fault? Perhaps they are. I have no mare in this horse race.

But if the financials results are deeply disappointing, what is the solution to sell more large sizes in stores that are shrinking in size? We expect an honest report from the flying squad. ~ Anne

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