Polo Ralph Lauren Fall 2023 Campaign by Richard Phibbs | AOC on Color Barriers in Education
/Note: all following images are from Ralph Lauren Polo Fall 2023 campaign by Richard Phibbs.
Ralph Lauren is quick to confirm that his brand is about lifestyle and not fashion. Especially in the age of Instagram and other visual social media platforms, Ralph Lauren’s ad campaigns and social media posts invite us into the designer’s real world of home, fashion, family and lifestyles inspiration.
As confirmation of this key point, Rizzoli released a new Ralph Lauren tome on September 26, just in time for the 2023 holidays. It’s called “Ralph Lauren: A Way of Living.”
Ralph Lauren and the American Dream
As an American — and long before I launched Anne of Carversville in 2007 — Ralph Lauren represented the American dream to me. Lauren has successfully woven America’s stories into the very fabric of his brand, creating a unique narrative like no other American designer.
Today, an older, wiser, and a more empathetic Ralph Lauren stands at the crossroads of American democracy. In the same moment, I am pouring over the details of American history on a daily basis and grabbing every creative opportunity to talk about them.
The evolution of Ralph Lauren’s humanist journey is discussed separately on AOC. It’s not the case that Ralph grabbed the global citizen flag and hit the road as an advocate for humanist values, as Brunello Cucinelli has done for decades.
I’d say that Ralph Lauren dug his convictions into the land around his Double RL Ranch, occupying 16,000 acres beneath Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, without getting his hands too dirty in the critical issues of our time — and especially if they involved politics.
Like so many fashion industry executives, Lauren lived as a wonderfully-nice, successful beyond-every-measure, rich and very talented family man, with his head buried in the sand on pressing social issues. No more.
To his credit as a now 83-year-old man, about a decade ago Ralph Lauren embarked on a different journey to understand the American experience both at home and on a global stage. In spite of his own success at surpassing the American dream, Ralph was too smart not to understand that the American story is actually among the most complex ones worldwide.
AOC has followed Ralph Lauren’s journey into the light of a comprehensive understanding of humanism’s principles and AOC has written regularly about Ralph’s progress with lavish praise and support.
When you put Polo Ralph Lauren together with Richard Phibbs [IG] as photographer, Anne’s day is derailed as I decide what to write. Poor Phibbs. He always inspires deep thinking at AOC.
This Fall 2023 Polo Ralph Lauren campaign builds on a similar theme from 2022. Republicans hadn’t made ‘wokeness’ part of an alleged Communist plot, as it is now. So Anne wrote: Ralph Lauren Polo Originals Fall 2022 Classics for Woke Humans by Richard Phibbs.
All ‘woke’ means is enlighted about reality and willing to talk about it. That’s the deep-seeded battle going on in America. The phrase “The truth will set you free” is attributed to Jesus, who was most-probably the first reform Jew. I don’t know how to break it to the Bible belt, but Jesus was a progressive, Jewish ‘woke’ reformer of his own culture.
A year later, I have a new intellectual weapon in my truth-telling, global-history arsenal, and her AI name is Lulu. She is supported by two other programs who cross-check her 85-90% accuracy rate. Lulu is the queen bee.
Picking up the same thread as I used in Fall 2022 to discuss the Polo Ralph Lauren Campaign, shot by Richard Phibbs, we turn to the Fall 2023 campaign, with the help of Lulu. The models include Hugh Laughton-Scott, Jacob Rott, Juhyung Kang, Niyo Malik, Rishi Robin, Rudy Verwey, Tristan Paine and Yoomi Sun.
We’ll side-by-side the Fall 2023 Polo Ralph Lauren women’s campaign in a separate post without commentary.
The gorgeous, nostalgic fall Polo campaign explores the legacy of British motorsport and academia, creating character types like the athlete, the mechanic and the discering scholar.
Phibbs shot the campaign at multiple locations including the famous Goodwood Motor Circuit racetrack, located in the English countryside around West Sussex.
West Sussex is bordered by Surrey to the north, East Sussex [home to Charleston and the Bloomsbury crowd] to the east, and the English Channel to the south.
Okay, let’s get smarter — looking at the Polo Fall 2023 men’s campaign under the umbrella of educational and car-racing opportunities for people of color in 1940s Britain and America. Most of us heard the phrase “If you can’t see it, you can’t be it.”
AOC totally supports taking some liberties with campaign visuals, but I also sense an obligation for AOC to share facts of history along the way. Ralph Lauren has mastered this art of inclusivity and Richard Phibbs has some of the keenest instincts I know about when taking this path of “how history could have been if only there were more of us and fewer of them.”
What’s relevant is that Anne believes with her whole heart that Ralph Lauren “gets it.” Perhaps not as deeply as Brunello Cucinelli and certainly not for as long a time. But Ralph Lauren is solidly embedded in a progressive values understanding of past, present and future events.
I don’t actually know the extent to which my Lulu AI has adapted her voice to mine. ‘They’ won’t tell me. Personally, my instincts say she is programmed to be in very close alignment with me as a progressive voice. Squarespace is primarily targeted to creatives, younger and older — and overall, to young people, who are more progressive than ever in the aggregate.
Lulu is not neutral, which is why I’m sharing her answers verbatim. Note that sometimes our dialogue goes on for 1-2 hours with very probing questions from Anne. I’m excerpting her responses verbatim but omitting large swathes of our conversation.
Also, in the question about American colleges and universities in the 1940s, I instructed Lulu NOT to include HCBUs in her answers. Here we go.
Are There Records of People of Color at the Goodwood Motor Circuit Racetrack?
Lulu: As a cherished institution in the world of auto racing, the Goodwood Motor Circuit racetrack in Britain has seen countless talented drivers compete on its historic asphalt.
It is crucial to recognize that the visibility of racial diversity in motorsports has been a subject of ongoing conversations and efforts to promote inclusion. Despite the lack of explicit records, it would be inaccurate to assume that people of color have never competed at the Goodwood Motor Circuit.
The sport of auto racing, like many other activities, has faced challenges and barriers concerning racial diversity. However, it is essential to acknowledge the persistent efforts of individuals and organizations dedicated to promoting inclusivity and breaking down these barriers.
In recent years, there has been a growing recognition of the need for diversity within motorsports. Prominent figures in the industry have initiated programs and initiatives to amplify opportunities for underrepresented communities, including people of color. These efforts aim to cultivate a more inclusive and diverse landscape within auto racing.
Did People of Color Attend British Universities in 1948?
Lulu: Yes, people of color did attend British universities in the 1940s, although their numbers were considerably smaller compared to their white counterparts. During this time, racial discrimination and social barriers created significant challenges for individuals from diverse backgrounds to pursue higher education in the United Kingdom.
Despite facing discrimination and limited opportunities, some determined individuals from diverse racial backgrounds managed to gain admission to British universities. Notable examples include Guyanese writer and politician E.R. Braithwaite, who became one of the first black students to attend the University of Cambridge in 1949. His experience as a student of color was later chronicled in the book "To Sir, With Love."
Compare Opportunities for People of Color in 1940s Britain and America. Do Not Include HBCUs
Lulu: During the 1940s, people of color faced significant challenges when pursuing higher education, both in Britain and America.
However, when comparing these two regions, it becomes apparent that Britain offered relatively more opportunities for individuals of color to attend university compared to America. While racial discrimination still existed in Britain, the absence of legalized segregation and a more diverse society lent itself to a more open environment for educational pursuits.
1. Social Climate:
In 1940s America, racial discrimination was deeply entrenched, perpetuated by the Jim Crow laws in the southern states, which enforced racial segregation. Even in northern regions where de jure segregation was not as pronounced, people of color still experienced widespread racism and a lack of acceptance within educational institutions. By contrast, Britain, although not free of racism, did not have legalized segregation policies. This more inclusive social climate allowed for relatively greater possibilities for people of color to attend university.
2. Access to Institutions:
Britain had a more holistic approach to admission, granting access based on academic merit rather than racial considerations.
Universities in Britain did not enforce exclusionary policies, allowing individuals of color to compete on equal footing with their white counterparts for admission. In America, on the other hand, universities were often inaccessible for people of color, contributing to significant disparities in educational opportunities.
3. Financial Support:
In Britain, the government provided financial assistance for higher education, making it more feasible for individuals from disadvantaged backgrounds, including people of color, to attend university. Scholarships and grants were available to all students based on academic excellence and financial need, irrespective of race. However, in America, financial aid was often harder for people of color to obtain due to systemic discrimination and racial biases.
4. Network and Support Systems:
While both Britain and America had individuals and organizations working tirelessly to support the education of people of color, the British society, influenced by a long history of colonialism, was more accustomed to interacting with people from different racial backgrounds. This resulted in a broader network of support for people of color pursuing higher education in Britain, including mentorship and access to social resources, which were crucial for the success and retention of students.
Conclusion:
While both Britain and America faced racial challenges during the 1940s, it was generally easier for people of color to attend university in Britain than in America. The absence of legalized segregation, a more inclusive social climate, accessible institutions, and financial support systems contributed to a relatively more favorable environment for higher education in Britain. Nevertheless, it is essential to acknowledge that progress on racial equality in both regions still had a long way to go, and educational opportunities for people of color during this era were far from ideal.