Recent Interviews and Analysis
/ Anne Enke
Featured
Loli Bahia in 'La Renaissance of Chic' for Vogue France December 2024 by Mert & Marcus
In the Vogue France [IG] December 2024 cover story ‘La Renaissance du Chic’, the fashion emphasis is a blend of sophistication, elegance and simplicity. A feeling of modernity mixed with classicism. It’s both an attitude and a natural way of being. It’s simply Parisian.
Iconic photographers Mert Alas [IG] & MarcusPiggott [IG] alongside top stylist Alastair McKimm, photograph the multicultural Algerian-French beauty Loli Bahia, a young woman of her time and already a top-flight fashion model.
‘A Beloved Diamond in the Rough’
Vogue France’s Alexandre Marain affectionately calls the girl from Lyon ‘a diamond in the rough’ — actually a possessive ‘our’ diamond.
Bahia is cherished by French luxury fashion and beyond as ‘their young woman’, a living embodiment of a global, multicultural French aesthetic with a complex history — one this young woman embraces fully. Learn more about her in AOC Fashion
Julien Martinez Leclerc's Women Drift in Primordial Waters for D Magazine Beauty
D la Repubblica’s D Magazine [IG] November 23, 2024 has published an outrageously-exquisite, sensual and primordial story for ‘Waves - The Beauty Issue’. The very talented Julien Martinez Leclerc [IG] photographs models Ajus Samuel and Karolina Spakowski in repose but also integrated into the natural landscape as if they are one being — a single creature. Jodie Barnes provides the minimal styling there is in this heart-skipping beauty story./ Hair by Franziska Presche; makeup by Fara Homidi
Karlie Kloss and Carolina Herrera: A Modern Women Brand Match in ELLE España
The astonishingly grounded and successful supermodel activist, humanitarian, wife and mother, philanthropist, investor, and hands-on businesswoman Karlie Kloss covers the December 2024 issue of ELLE España [IG].
The Carolina Herrera ‘Good Girl’ ambassador is styled by Bárbara Garralda in three ELLE covers and a fashion story for the Carolina Herrera brand. Photographer Xavi Gordo [IG] captures the perfectly elegant looks for the holidays and resort getaways, as AOC dives into an examination of a Kloss-Herrera alliance that’s worth a Harvard Business School case study.
@KodeWithKlossy
The successful relationship between Karlie Kloss and Carolina Herrera the brand and their Good Girl fragrance is a thriving business/personal activist relationship founded in 2018.
Karlie’s philanthropy centered around @KodeWithKlossy — her 2015-launched, summer camp initiative teaching teen girls ages 13-18 to code.
Karlie Kloss and Reproductive Freedom
Today Karlie’s fight is not at all glamorous, as she increases her activism around women’s health access. Kloss chooses carefully her partners in activism in ways that do no harm to Carolina Herrera.
Those partners include Melinda Gates and her daughter Phoebe Gates.
Vogue Poland at Netflix's ‘The Leopard' Author Giuseppe Tomasi Home in Palermo
The November 2024 issue of Vogue Poland [IG] is dedicated to the synergy between cinema and fashion. The fashion story featuring Africa Garcia was styled by London-based Ashlee Barrett-Bourmier, under the title ‘marzenia ściętych głów’ [‘Dreams of Decapitated Heads’].
Looking at the translated title of the story, AOC’s reaction was “what in the world!!” Then we discovered that James Giles [IG] photographed the story in the last home of Giuseppe Tomasi, author of ‘The Leopard’, in the Palazzo Lanza Tomasi, Palermo, Italy.
Related:Deva Cassel, Filming 'The Leopard', Covers Harper's Bazaar Taiwan May 2024 by JUANKRAOC Fashion
The Leopard’ provides a richly detailed and introspective exploration of Sicilian aristocracy during the Risorgimento, capturing the complexities of historical transitions into a unified Italy in the novel and Netflix series. Across Europe similar movements were attached to the creation of liberal democracies.
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Vittoria Ceretti Channels '60s music star Francoise Hardy for British Vogue October
British Vogue’s [IG] October 2024 issue channels ‘60s pop chanteuse Francoise Hardy in a fashion story ‘Joie de Vivre’. Top model Vittoria Ceretti channels Hardy’s signature looks styled by Jordan Bickham in images by Angelo Pennetta [IG]. / Hair by Ramona Eschbach; makeup by Marie Duhart
‘Tous les garçons et les filles’ [1962]
Françoise Hardy, a seminal figure in 1960s pop music, captivated audiences with her distinct voice and stylish presence, marking her rise to fame during this transformative decade. Born in Paris in 1944, Hardy emerged in an era where the youth culture was blossoming, creating a fertile ground for her talents to flourish. Her journey to stardom commenced with the release of her debut single ‘Tous les garçons et les filles’ in 1962.
The rising music phenom was a central figure of the Yé-Yé wave, that characterized post-war Europe.
Francoise Hardy Fashion Muse
Hardy had an innate ability to blend contemporary trends with classic elements, often wearing tailored mini skirts, chic trench coats, and perfectly fitted turtlenecks. Her love for monochromatic palettes and understated patterns allowed her natural beauty and grace to shine through, making her a muse for designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Paco Rabanne.
Guerlain's Violette Serrat Relaunches G Rouge Lipstick for Paris Lovers
Meet Violette Serrat
French-born Violette Serrat, creative director of makeup for Guerlain since summer 2021, was born and raised in Paris. Serrat understands French women and their love of red lipstick.
Fifteen years after Rouge G’s first Guerlain release, it’s reborn in 40 stunning shades in both velvet-matte and satin finishes. Rouge G is formulated with a new 89 per cent skincare-based formula made with lily oleo extract. Created with lily flowers and paired with sweet almond oil, this complex has smoothing, hydrating and plumping properties and improves the quality of lips worldwide with prolonged wear.
Top faces Natalia Vodianova and Malika El Maslouhi are leading the campaign lensed by Charlotte Wales [IG].
Even the iconic mirrored cases notched up their glam quotient without hurting the environment. Using gold instead of silver, the nine new jewel cases are 19 per cent lighter than before, allowing for a 30 per cent reduction in carbon dioxide emissions.
More or Less Issue 8: What Our Love of Plants and Flowers Tells Us About Our Politics
Photographer Carlijn Jacobs [IG] captures models Sascha Rajasulu and Yasmin Wijnaldumwalks in the natural world of ancestral traditions and conscious consumption for More or Less Magazine’s [IG] Issue 8.
In the Beginning . . . .
The first definitive evidence of flowers traces back to the Cretaceous period, around 130 million years ago, during a time when the Earth's climate and landscapes were undergoing significant change.
Prior to this floral revolution, vegetation was dominated by gymnosperms, ferns, and mosses. The advent of flowers introduced a new mechanism for pollination, often involving intricate interactions with the animal kingdom, particularly insects.
Human-Plant Interaction Studies Using Brain Science
Fast forward to now and human-invented technologies that explore these human-plant interactions. Modern-day researchers strive to understand the psychological and neurological impacts of plants on humans — including our brains.
Chanel Ambassador & Icon Penelope Cruz Covers Vogue Hong Kong November 2024
The divine Penélope Cruz covers the November 2024 issue of Vogue Hong Kong, posing in key pieces from the Chanel Cruise 2025 collection.
A Chanel ambassador since 2018, Cruz is styled by Michael Philouze in images by friends and star photographers Luigi Murenuu & Iango Henzi [IG] for ‘Penelope Cruz on Embracing Each Role and True Success’.
Penelope Cruz and Johnny Depp in ‘Day Drinker’
Last week’s Penelope Cruz news is her teaming up with Johnny Depp for ‘Day Drinker’, a Lionsgate thriller with Marc Webb directing. The film is Cruz’s fourth film with Depp and is described by Lionsgate as one in which “a cruise ship bartender” and “a mysterious day drinker” . . . “find themselves entangled in a criminal underbelly, and connected in unexpected ways.”
Dior Cruise 2025 Campaign by Brigitte Niedermair at Drummond Castle in Scotland
Dior’s 2025 cruise collection now comes to life in a new ad campaign lensed by Brigitte Niedermair [IG]. Models include Ali Dansky, Jiali Zhao, Sanija Dalecka and Tanya Churbanova, styled by Elin Svahn. Ryan Chappell provides choreography with Alice Schillaci as director./ Hair by Eugene Souleiman; makeup by Peter Philips
Anne has written extensive political commentary about Dior’s thriving brand relationship with women worldwide under Maria Grazia Chiuri and the criticism of her by our industry’s fashion mafia sideliners. The original article link in this post takes you to Anne’s analysis.
Riley Keough became a Chanel ambassador with the release of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 campaign shot in Hyères, in the heart of the South of France.
French food wasn’t on Riley’s mind when asked by ELLE UK to imagine hosting a dinner party with her also-famous friends Dakota Johnson, Kristen Stewart and Zoë Kravitz. “Dakota would set the table, pick the things out, make everything look nice, and pick the flowers.”
Natasha Wray styles Keough in the all-Chanel fashion story lensed by Olivia Malone [IG], with Riley discussing her new memoir, picking up the unfinished pages after her mother’s death.
The allure of Conie Vallese [IG] [Buenos Aires, 1986] is both compelling and rare. AOC has never heard the artist speak live, but her clarity in both art and life evokes admiration always and a small amount of envy whenever I write about her.
Xavi Gordo [IG] is in Vienna, photographing the artist for Bazaar Spain. Vallese is adorned with key pieces from Cartier’s Nature Sauvage collection.
From serpentine forms coiling with primal elegance to verdant foliage encrusted in dazzling jewels, Nature Sauvage invites wearers to experience a deeper connection with the earth's wild and timelessly beautiful landscapes.
Vallese's life embraces this same connection.
Fresh off her runway walk at this week’s Victoria’s Secret fashion show, Adriana covers the November 2024 issue of Vogue Espana [IG], wearing Dior on both covers. Photographer Dan Jackson [IG] photographs Lima styled by Jorden Bickham. / Makeup by Frank B; hair by Tomo Jidai
Adriana has been devoted to boxing for years, with several of her fashion stories organized around the sport. AOC isn’t surprised by the health benefits of boxing, but they are actually extraordinary beyond our knowledge.
Read our recent deep dive into boxing in Body. Also in Body, this Adriana Lima 2019 Numéro Russia fashion story.
Adriana Lima Throws a Fashion Punch in Numero Russia 055 Women's Empowerment Issue AOC Body
Vogue Greece Sends Red Kisses | AOC Goes to Babylon for a Primer on Cherry Lips
Models Lucy Rosiek and Naomi Apajok are styled by Glen Mban in ‘Red Kisses’, lensed by Johan Sandberg [IG] for Vogue Greece [IG] October.
Red Lipstick In Ancient Mesopotamia
In the annals of ancient history, the use of red lipstick finds one of its earliest origins in Mesopotamia, a cradle of civilization that flourished in the regions of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. The people of ancient Mesopotamia, notably the Sumerians and later the Assyrians and Babylonians, were among the first to transform the act of adorning one's lips into an art form.
Lip Color and the Divine Feminine
Beyond social stratification, lip color also conveyed aspects of femininity and allure, playing a role in rituals and rites associated with love and attraction. The divine feminine was celebrated in Babylonian mythology, where goddesses were revered for their beauty and grace; by adorning themselves with lip color, women could symbolically align themselves with these powerful deities.
Boxing for Women's Health: Madame Figaro Paris Is Ringside with Karlina Caune
AOC turns our attention to ‘Ring Parade’, and we’re not talking diamonds — although model Karlina Caune is sporting some serious watches in this fashion story for the September 2024 issue of Madame Figaro Paris [IG].
Stylist Sylvie Clemente is ringside, preparing Caune to fight, fight, fight — as women did in Sparta. Photographer Thiemo Sander [IG] photographs the fashion action for Madame Figaro; and AOC takes a seriously-informed deep dive into the health benefits of boxing. / Hair by Kazuko Kitaoka; makeup by Maria Olsson
Historical records and artwork from different civilizations reveal women engaging in activities like wrestling, running, and even boxing. Ancient Minoan artifacts, for example, depict women participating alongside men in athletic competitions, while the society of Sparta in ancient Greece famously encouraged women to train in physical exercises to strengthen them as future mothers of warriors — male and female.
All AOC can say is “Thank goddess for cave paintings.” Let’s go.
Beloved actor Lupita Nyong’o has not taken up painting. But today’s Harper’s Bazaar UK[IG] November 2024 cover story reminds us that not all fashion photography sets are created equal. Nyong’o covers Bazaar UK’s ‘The Art Issue: a celebration of colour, craftsmanship, pattern and print.’
Photographer Alexi Lubomirski [IG] hits all the high notes in a fashion story styled by Miranda Almond for Chanel’s newest global ambassador.Gorgeous and right on the money in terms of a huge trend emerging.
White Skin Does NOT Reflect God’s Will
Lupita again speaks of the issue of skin color — one we’ve written about many times, along with featuring her mind-changing interview with Alek Wek.
The actor has frequently told the stories of praying to God as a young woman, beseeching the divine to make her skin lighter.
Anne has done a lot of research on this topic and puts a new spin on this set of outrageous Christian beliefs about skin color.
Hailey Bieber’s Rhode Skin joins the big league today, sharing news and photos of world-famous, 1990s supermodel Claudia Schiffer as the face of Rhode Skin’s new Barrier Butter product. Drew Vickers [IG] shot these wonderful images of Schiffer celebrating the new deep-hydration product arriving October 28 at 9am PT [noon of the East Coast].
The new ‘Joker’ debuted in Venice last week to mixed reviews. Some criticism is that the film is dull — first and foremost — because Gaga is sidelined and underused. Reviewing probably eight commentaries, no critic suggests that Gaga herself isn’t magnificent in ‘Joker: Folie à Deux’, opening in US theaters the first week in October.
With all the fan-related resources Gaga brings to her role as the psychologist turned turned villain in ‘Joker: Folie à Deux’, it seems totally plausible that Gaga’s unusually-fine mind and empathetic persona — combined with years of deep connection to those who view life through the lens of Gaga’s own — have armed her with the capacity to make the most of Harley Quinn’s crossing over to the ‘other side’.
Jonathan Van Meter interviews Gaga, sharing his initial impressions of the star in 2010:
The first time I laid eyes on her in December 2010, she was barefoot, covered in fake blood, mascara running down her face, wearing a robe made of voluminous red feathers—like a cross between Alice Cooper and Big Bird, I wrote. She was dressed like a lunatic and—you guessed it—behaving like one. On another occasion—in another astounding frock, hair in a Bride-of-Frankenstein updo—she had on shoes that made her feet look like they were screwed on backward and brought her up to nearly my height . . .
Photographer Pamela Hanson [IG] has the honor of photographing actor Anya Taylor-Joy and Bartok the Magnificent, her long-haired chihuahua puppy for the September 2024 ELLE Australia [IG] cover story.
The Dior fashion and beauty ambassador is styled by ELLE fashion director Naomi Smith with hair by Gregory Russell and makeup by Georgie Eisdell.
Grace O’Neill takes charge of the interview.
Today the actor, known for roles in ‘Furiosa: A Mad Max Story’, ‘The Menu’ and ‘Last Night in Soho’ will take the lead role in ‘How to Kill Your Family’.
Playing revenge-seeking Grace Bernard in an adaptation of Bella Mackie’s novel brings Anja Taylor-Joy back into the Netflix fold.
Numero Switzerland No.2 'Timeless Icons' Explores Humanity's Use of Makeup
The historical journey of makeup is a fascinating tale of human ingenuity and adaptability. Early humans discovered the potential of naturally occurring substances like ochre clays and charcoal to create pigments that could be applied to the skin. These rudimentary forms of makeup were likely used for both practical purposes—such as camouflage during hunting—and expressive ones.
Understanding the roots of makeup helps us appreciate its enduring presence in human society. It reveals how our ancestors viewed beauty, identity, and even power through the lens of their environmental resources and cultural contexts.
The 'Shape of Water' in Vogue Ukraine Prompts a Neuroscience Look at Ocean Waves
In late March 2024, Vogue Ukraine [IG] shared a wellness story ‘Shape of Water’ with model Julia Pacha. Kasia Mioduszke styled the fashion shoot lensed by photographers Tatiana and Karol [IG].
Ocean Sounds in Human History
Throughout history, the sound of ocean waves has held a profound cultural and historical significance for human societies. From ancient civilizations to modern times, the rhythmic ebb and flow of waves have been intertwined with human life, evoking a sense of wonder, reverence, and connection to the natural world.
Water As a Divine Entity
In many ancient cultures, the ocean was seen as a divine entity or the abode of gods and spirits.
Mami Wata is a captivating figure rooted in the cultural and spiritual tapestry of Africa, embodying the complex interplay between water, femininity, and mysticism. Mami Wata’s history and meaning have always been woven into Anne of Carversville’s digital psyche.
Impact of Ocean Waves on Our Brains
In our modern world, the soothing sound of ocean waves crashing against the shore has long been associated with a sense of peace and relaxation. What is it about this natural symphony that captivates the human brain so profoundly? The answer lies in both the physical properties of sound waves and their psychological impact on our minds.
Blackpink’s Lisa covers the September 2024 issue of ELLE US with a fashion story and interview by Stephan Lee for ‘Blackpink’s Lisa Is Ready to be Unleashed’.
Nicola Formichetti styles Lisa for images by lensed by Gregory Harris [IG].
Louis Vuitton and Global Citizen Festival
Lisa’s megawatt life turned up the volume further with her recently-announced status as a Louis Vuitton ambassador. More July 2024 breaking news for the Blackpink member was the announcement that she would be co-headlining the 2024 Global Citizen Festival at New York’s Central Park Great Lawn on Saturday, September 28.
Kylie Jenner covers the September 2024 issue of British Vogue [IG], wearing a purple coat by Prada and earrings by Bulgari styled by Ib Kamara. Jenner is the first Kardashian-Jenner woman to cover British Vogue and she is lensed by Luis Alberto Rodriguez [IG]./ Hair by Mustafa Yanaz; makeup by Sam Visser
Giles Hattersly interviews Kylie Jenner over a period of time that includes Paris couture week, and Kylie in New York and LA.
Kylie Jenner’s Post-Partum Depression
Kylie speaks to her battle with post-partum depression with both her children daughter Stormi, 6, and son Aire, now 2. Travis Scott is the father of both kids. Her “major baby blues” were worse with Aire.
For the paps trailing Kylie Jenner’s every move, she shares news that she has a place in New York and enjoys the High Line incognito.
Yumi Nu in Okinawa for Vogue Japan [IG] September 2024. Styled by Giulia Revolo, Nu wears Fendi on the cover.
Nu was born in Englewood, NJ of mixed heritage, with her mother being Japanese and her father of Dutch descent. Her maternal lineage traces back to Okinawa, the largest of Japan’s Ryukyu Islands in the southern part of Japan.
Photographer Luis Alberto Rodriguez [IG] delivers richly well-done images of Olympic runner Sha’Carri Richardson in a sporting fashion story for the Vogue August’s 2024 digital issue. Julia Sarr-Jamois styles the track star inn Ralph Lauren Collection for the cover and slinky white dress, Bode tank top and shorts, and Nike Team USA Olympic leotard and bikers. / Hair by Key Rentz; makeup by Sally Branka; no credit for Richardson’s outstanding talons.
Richardson won her first Olympic medal today, after suffering the sad suspension for the track star at the Tokyo Games in 2021.
Today was a far happier event for Sha’Carri Richardson, when she won silver in Paris. Was silver — not gold — a surprise? Yes. And her gold medal loss was 1/4 of a second to Julien Alfred of Saint Lucia.
Supermodel, supermom, superactivist Karlie Kloss is styled by Gro Curtis in ‘Force of Nature’, a modern woman fashion story lensed by Emma Summerton [IG] for V Magazine Fall 2024 preview. / Makeup by Romy Soleimani; hair by Bob Recine
In a bit of brilliant marketing, in AOC’s opinion, Karlie is wearing Loro Piana ‘Into the Wild’ collection— with swagger. The brand positioning is perfect for Loro Piana because of Karlie’s long list of accomplishments.
Karlie Kloss’ To Do List
The list includes Kode with Klossy, devoted to hands on tech camps for girls across America; and more recently, Gateway Coalition, focused on reproductive care for American women under assault with the overturn of Roe. In short order Gateway has directed more than $3 million in donations to abortion clinics in the Midwest.
Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri was recently called the most modern couturier working today by Vogue’s Nicole Phelps.
In trying to explain her ‘design ethos’, while unintentionally drawing a line in the sand between herself and Christian Dior, Chiuri explained further. “Couture has historically been about ‘building the body’ with its corset foundations and highly-structured silhouettes. But I don’t want to build the body, I want to release it.”
For her Fall 2024 collection, Chiuri turned to the Miss Dior boutique, opened in 1967 to showcase a separate ready-to-wear collection during the tenure of Marc Bohan.
The designer explained: “I think he was really visionary for the time because the couture house was in difficulty. They had this relationship only with these couture clients—and women were changing. Not all the couture-house creative directors were so visionary to understand the new era, and new women.”
Actor Emma Corrin covers the August 2024 issue of S Moda El Pais, lensed by Pablo Sáez [IG] in ‘Tiempo De Antihéroes’.
“Boys are idiots…” Corrin’s villianous character says in the film. Like the non-binary Corrin, Cassandra Nova’s shaved head and superpowers dramatize the actor’s own desire “to explore, change, and not be pigeonholed.”
Director Shawn Levy seeks to render Cassandra as an anti-villain, a charming and nice human who suddenly ups and kills someone. The character is only evil some of the time — a frequent signature in Marvel’s films.
Deauville, a charming seaside town in Normandy, France, holds a special place in the history of fashion as the birthplace of modern Chanel fashion. It was here in 1913 that Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel opened her first boutique outside Paris. Deauville's affluent visitors and relaxed atmosphere provided the perfect backdrop for Chanel to revolutionize women's fashion.
Coco Chanel introduced a new aesthetic that embraced simplicity, comfort, and elegance — with menswear and the lives of men being a key psychological component in Chanel’s approach to fashion design for ‘liberated’, wealthy women.
Leisure as a signature of wealth surrounded Coco in her observations of Deauville's elite vacationers.
Top model and talented actor Cara Delevingne talked details of her sobriety journey in yesterday’s interview with The Sunday Times July 7, 2024 issue.
Writer Vassi Chamberlain recalled meeting the mischievous Delevingne for the first time at her aunt’s wedding in 2001. It’s unlikely she was prepared for Cara’s response.
“You know I got drunk that day,” she says. “I was eight, what a crazy age to get drunk.”
The Delevigne sisters are daughters of their famous mother Pandora Delevingne, who first used heroin days after her 18th birthday. One assumes that being diagnosed with a serious bipolar condition, coupled with drug use presented very big challenges for Pandora’s daughters.
